Slant back suggestions

[kfrosty]

Just got 3 slantbacks. Most all need some work. Just trying to map out a plan for them. All are battlefield trucks what have bullet holes and scars. Trying to decide if the scars and holes are best left alone for character or need to be fixed.

Panels have some spots here and there and I'm trying to decide if they need to be perfect or that's part of the character of the vehicle.

I'm trying to decide if they should be painted military colors or H1 colors.

Would Rhino Liner type paint be ok or is a more traditional paint preferred?

I had to purchase 3 to get the deal I got but still because they are original slants I still paid a premium for them.

 

[hummer4x4guy]

If they were mine is not fix the bullet holes unless they were terribly large. I'd keep the paint scheme military and not rhino line it. Keep them as basic and original as possible and leave it up to the seller to civilianize them. That my opinion.


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[Retiredwarhorses]

Pics would be helpful of the trucks, plus damage areas, or areas of concern.

 

[papakb]

The answer to your question is another question. What do you want out of your trucks? Some guys want a "just rolled off the line" look. Others want a truck they're not afraid to take out in the woods and drive. If you want to make them a memorial to someone or something then leave the holes. So it comes down to your wants. Personally if I had 3 of them to play with I'd leave one as is and clean up the other 2.

Kurt
KG6KMJ

 

[Jwade]

 

[kfrosty]

My trucks I use and I'm not asking about the truck(s) I'm going to keep. I reasonably know about what I want to do.

I ended up with 3 slants and I don't need 3, one of them is going at some point.

So, I'm trying to figure out what the market looks for?

It's just about flipping it as is or doing some work and if so is the work worth it.

I see some are using behr paint but my worry with that is longevity sticking and not flaking, scratching easily etc. "Rhino lined", I'd do in tan or green camo the thought there is it should adhere better and be a lot more durable and do a better job with imperfections than say bondo or equivalent if you tried to get everything perfectly straight looking. Maybe the small battle scares are better left alone as anybody wanting a clean truck, like it came from the factory may just want an H1.

Is it worth putting a drive train in it? If so, a 6.5 with 3 spd or OD? Or a 6.5 Turbo with OD?

There aren't that many full original slant backs out there to use a gauge on the market and I was just looking for opinions. Most are 998 conversions.

I have my ideas but it never hurts soliciting for other opinions.

What I find is anybody with a slant back thinks running with decent paint, $45 to $100k for obvious reasons. (Latter is ridiculous to me as I'd just buy a H1).

Most without one want to say they are worth 20 to 30k, again for obvious reasons.

People with 1025 or 1026 will claim they're worth more because they were original slants. People converting M998's will try to say it doesn't matter. I respect the opinions of persons on this website and just looking for some to see if anybody has any take I haven't thought of yet.

 

[camoyj7]

I would think 45k-65k for a real nice slant back. I would agree that a M1025/26 would be worth more than a M998 convert. Supply and demand dictates price.

 

[tage]

Two for sale locally. 35k & 75k... The second one likely belongs to a member here
I say realistically they're worth 20-30k.......

 

[infidel got me]

If your still undecided on what to do with the third one, you could give it to me. I wont tell anyone-I promise. lol

I would leave the battle scars on them, it adds character.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

The trucks I finish are 100k trucks...m998 or not as a starting point, you can't tell the difference in mine.
done right, there is no way to tell if it started life as an M998 or m1025/6.
but I also only do 6.5TD, 4L80E etc on the driv train.
the Devils in the details....and those details cost money and time. So the cleaner, truer restoration you do will determine the value amount. I just don't recommend latex paints for some of the dame reasons you cite....
a big selling point is to install OEM A/C....

 

[kfrosty]

The trucks I finish are 100k trucks...m998 or not as a starting point, you can't tell the difference in mine.
done right, there is no way to tell if it started life as an M998 or m1025/6.
but I also only do 6.5TD, 4L80E etc on the driv train.
the Devils in the details....and those details cost money and time. So the cleaner, truer restoration you do will determine the value amount. I just don't recommend latex paints for some of the dame reasons you cite....
a big selling point is to install OEM A/C....

Thanks, what I'm looking for. AC & 6.5TD with OD especially as that's what I was thinking would make a big difference just curious if anybody would have any comments on them.

It's just whether or not I want to take all of them to that point in my spare time.

I'm doubt I'll do them to the detail you and I'm not shooting for 100k. At the very least I'd expect what I got in them and some type of return on investment and time.

What paint do you use in your restorations if you don't mind my asking?

 

[Stonewall]

I would definitely keep them as original as possible, with the addition of proper A/C unit and other details. As others have said, I would prefer to keep the bullet hose / battle damage as long as it is practical. IMHO.

 

[kfrosty]

The biggest hole, about 3 fingers in one.



Then a dent from something



Then front is probably about the worse thing to deal with.

 

[941038]

Doesn't look like a bullet hole. More like a puncture. I'm with the others leave it. Working with aluminum is a pain.

 

[SETOYOTA]

Whatever kind of paperwork you have will be a determining factor as well.