(This was originally a PM, but I thought the community might benefit from it, so I tweaked it a bit and am posting it)
BLUF: Ceramic spray on coatings work
I understand the desire to put in matting into a HMWWV that matches the original military application -or- makes it look as close to original as possible is very desirable.
At the same time, I am reading people's plans to invest considerable time taking off tops/shells and flipping them to ensure applications of those matting pads are set in just right.
I am concerned that some expectations are that these insulation mattings will eliminate sound or heat coming into the cab. We have to understand that a military contractor only does what they must to meet a
just requirement and at the absolutely lowest cost, not the best result.
(The days of the WWII pervasive mentality of
"Those are our sons and husbands over there!" has pretty much been extinguished, but that is another discussion on IW/IO.)
I really ardently believe that spray on coatings would provide exponentially more in both sound and heat control to the inside of many old warhorses.
I want our folks to be armed with this knowledge so they may make fully informed decisions before a project is completed.
AND I am not pushing any one brand/product/company. Lizardskin happens to be the product that was used in both instances.
I am actually trying to figure out more wholesale solution myself.
SO, my 2 cents and vignettes:
While I have not gotten to the point (my body work isn't done) in my project where I have applied the Lizard Skin to the inside of my M1009, I will be doing it.
Additionally, I have been in other folks vehicles both before and after they did the coatings. Both examples are from 2017-2020 New Mexico from the group of guys I was working with on Kirtland AFB.
1) Wally's 1970 bronco: This Ford had a
real nice 351 engine swap with headers done that looked great. The problem was the heat that radiated from the floor, especially in the New Mexico summers, was insane. It was so bad his wife would not go 4-wheeling with him because the drive out was miserable. (He was considering buying a truck and trailer) One of the engineers from AFRL* suggested the idea of spray in ceramic insulation. He had it did using Lizardskin heat control, he stipulated to the shop that he wanted two full applications (4 coats) done. He then had a coat of paint done over it and It turned out great. The trouble from the radiant heat was solved.
2) Vic's 198X M1009: In 100+ temps this guy's CUCV was HOT. The group didn't want to go to lunch in his CUCV because we would sweat like pigs going and coming back (and the civilians were in business casual which
was a problem with their PM)
He put in a Nostalgic Air A/C unit and while it did cool the blazer it was never really as cool as he wanted it. He stared to realize the radiant heat issues, especially the heat radiating from the floor. At the same time he saw the results from Wally's Bronco (see above). So he did the Lizardskin Heat
and Sound coating. (In for a penny in for a pound?)
I helped him do the work at the Auto Hobby shop on Kirtland AFB -which is possibly the best on base Auto Hobby shop I have been to in decades (plug for the guys there).
The results were
AWESOME!
The problems from the road noise were drastically reduced. The radiant heat issue was eliminated and the M1009 could get cold even in the hottest of 100+ days. We only did one application (2 coats) per product.
The only thing he complained about was that he had to order more of the coating than he purchased, and that the project cost more money in materials and the rental of a bay at the auto shop. (But he only did this a few times because I pointed out he was the one that thought we could "make it work with less" and the truck had to sit in the shop while we waited for the products to ship.)
Now if you wanted to you could get the ceramic beads** and mix it into the paint you are going to use.
(Which is what I am considering, but not decided on***)
However, you will no doubt need to use an applicator that can support it. If I go that way I am still going to get the application kit from Lizardskin.
Now this (spray-in option) unquestionably costs more than "peel and stick" insulation (which you may want to still do for the OEM MilSpec look)
AND Everything has costs. As my Grandpa used to say "
Its not how much you make, its how much you save..."
But in this case I think a spray in thermal barrier which can be painted over and keep the vehicle looking pretty close to original while significantly controlling sound and more importantly heat, is worth it.
AFGVET
* AFRL: Air Force Research Laboratories
**
Ceramic Insulating Additives for Paint (hytechadditive.com)
*** the companies that make the stuff have figured out the problems with making a mixture that holds this all in suspension
