Smart box

[LouWon]

Hi all, I had an issue with my smart box, I am not looking for repair advice, I have a new one on order with matching TSU and new glow plugs.
I also have the extra ground cables and just replaced both batteries
Question is , I have seen some that are rebuilt, is anyone buying the broken ones and refurbishing them ?

I don't know what caused the short, so here are the pics

 

[Milcommoguy]

CAMOTEKSYSTEMS.com is the way to go. I have about 70 of those boards if you want to take a chance. But why would one want a computer project to manage simple glow plug control?

HMMWV and 30 year old computer parts ? CAMO

 

[tgejesse]

CAMOTEKSYSTEMS.com is the way to go. I have about 70 of those boards if you want to take a chance. But why would one want a computer project to manage simple glow plug control?

HMMWV and 30 year old computer parts ? CAMO

This is the only good solution.

 

[TOBASH]

This is the only good solution.

No, it is a solid solution but not the only solution. Cam is a great guy but he is NOT the only game in town.

I am a proponent of repairing/refurbishing to make a robust test box. I also posted the plans on how to do it. It is essentially a repair.

Hummer H1 alternatively and frequently converts these rigs to 12 V and he does a great job.

EDIT - Corrected 11-24-2022

 

[tgejesse]

No, it is a solid solution but not the only solution. Cam is a great guy but he is NOT the only game in town.

I also make a robust box and I also posted the plans on how to do it.

Hummer H1 alternatively and frequently converts these rigs to 12 V and he does a great job.

In my eyes, cams work lead to others ability to build their own boxes. He has been kind enough and open to sharing his work for the hobby community.

Agreed it is not the ONLY solution, but I still believe it to be the best solution. I’ve had his box, I worked with him during his start up phase and his work Is unlike anything I’ve ever seen.

 

[emmado22]

Does anyone have a solution that replaces the boxes, but DOESNT require drilling holes for switches, or modifying anything? If the WAIT light still worked, that would be nice too.

 

[LouWon]

Read this thread, both Tobash and and Camoteksystems offer a solution to your needs

 

[TOBASH]

Both of use units that do not require drilling. People like the units I posted schematics about and I get great telephone feedback. People love CamO’s units and I read great feedback.

I started a thread years ago to repair these units and make the process more understandable. CamO contacted me and showed me a lot. CamO posted to that thread and we worked together. The schematics and documents I later posted were posted after and with CamO’s review and corrections and verbal permission and encouragement. Later we went separate ways.

The unit I’d posted has an extra LED to show if the glow plugs are actually accepting current and working. Nice if you blow all 8 and didn’t realize.

I also can demonstrate an aftermarket solution to allow placement of a button in an accessible area via a plate held in place with factory screws. No drilling.

I also can demonstrate an aftermarket solution that just lets the actuator button hang free. You can hide it to try to deter theft.

The units I’ve demonstrated are meant to illustrate and assist an owner’s “Right To Repair.” In no way is this unit “new”. It uses standard understanding of glow plug technology with used damaged and then recovered parts.

EDIT - Corrected Nov-24-2022

 

[TOBASH]

Does anyone have a solution that replaces the boxes, but DOESNT require drilling holes for switches, or modifying anything? If the WAIT light still worked, that would be nice too.

The wait light will light up however that wait light is useless with both of our systems. You are in control, pressing a button. When you press that button the light will come on. If you hold the button waiting for it to go out, the light will stay on and you will burn your glow plugs.

I drew schematics with a separate LED to show that the glow plugs are functioning, but there is no timer function in the schematics. You wouldn’t need to use the wait light.

You are the “wait light function”. You just need to know how to press and hold the and then let go.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Does anyone have a solution that replaces the boxes, but DOESNT require drilling holes for switches, or modifying anything? If the WAIT light still worked, that would be nice too.

Yes. Camoteksystems.com

The original manual "Glow & GO" CAMO

Home

Camoteksystems develops and manufactures HMMWV Star Box Power Distribution Manual Glow Controls.

Camoteksystems.com

 

[nikojo]

I just installed camoteksystem box. Could not have been easier. It is plug and play.

The glow light goes on when the button is pressed. If you don't want to drill anything you can just put the button under the dash and find and press it that way. I think he has boxes that have the button on the box itself which is nice as a security feature.

I had a natron box I will be selling. Nothing wrong with it but I didn't like the idea of the circuit boards and nature of its design.

 

[Milcommoguy]

I just installed camoteksystem box. Could not have been easier. It is plug and play.

The glow light goes on when the button is pressed. If you don't want to drill anything you can just put the button under the dash and find and press it that way. I think he has boxes that have the button on the box itself which is nice as a security feature.

I had a natron box I will be selling. Nothing wrong with it but I didn't like the idea of the circuit boards and nature of its design.

Thanks for the sales pitch nikojo. Your are right, Manual control remote or in the box models... and now a Physical Secure Key Model, without the headache and stories of past use. Don't forget the Marker Safety Flasher. Perfect stocking stuffier.

Lock it up and turn it OFF, CAMO HO Ho ho

 

[nikojo]

What's a physical secure key model? Key on the box?

 

[TOBASH]

Members have posted devices locking the transmission in Park.

 

[Ranchtruck]

No, it is a solid solution but not the only solution. Cam is a great guy but he is NOT the only game in town.

I am a proponent of repairing/refurbishing to make a robust test box. I also posted the plans on how to do it. It is essentially a repair.

Hummer H1 alternatively and frequently converts these rigs to 12 V and he does a great job.

EDIT - Corrected 11-24-2022

No, it is a solid solution but not the only solution. Cam is a great guy but he is NOT the only game in town.

I am a proponent of repairing/refurbishing to make a robust test box. I also posted the plans on how to do it. It is essentially a repair.

Hummer H1 alternatively and frequently converts these rigs to 12 V and he does a great job.

EDIT - Corrected 11-24-2022

Would you by chance have a close-up pic of a cr-2700 board? One of my resistors is charred and I can't tell what size it is so I can replace it. I can almost make out the one from the pic LouWon posted but it's just not clear enough. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Mogman]

Would you by chance have a close-up pic of a cr-2700 board? One of my resistors is charred and I can't tell what size it is so I can replace it. I can almost make out the one from the pic LouWon posted but it's just not clear enough. Any help would be appreciated.

The problem is that there is a 99% chance something else took out the resistor, replacing it will not likely help.

 

[Ranchtruck]

The problem is that there is a 99% chance something else took out the resistor, replacing it will not likely help.

Wondering if maybe the last person to disconnect the PCB didn't disconnect the battery first which caused resister to blow?

 

[Milcommoguy]

First off... Camoteksystems is not a game. Second, cause and effect of cascading components is more than likely as stated above. One can see that the HEXFETS are toasted in the picture. ? is that the controller? Third, the resistor in question is an 100 ohm, 5 %, 1/2 watt. Fourth, basically a simple truck with a 3 cent part in a box of hundreds killed the HumV fun.

Could have been a 5 cent nut or a 10 cent spring, CAMO

 

[Ranchtruck]

First off... Camoteksystems is not a game. Second, cause and effect of cascading components is more than likely as stated above. One can see that the HEXFETS are toasted in the picture. ? is that the controller? Third, the resistor in question is an 100 ohm, 5 %, 1/2 watt. Fourth, basically a simple truck with a 3 cent part in a box of hundreds killed the HumV fun.

Could have been a 5 cent nut or a 10 cent spring, CAMO

So the pic I attached, the one with the fried hexfets is not my circuit board it was just one I copy and pasted for reference. I’ll upgrade my glow plug system eventually but for now just looking to get it working.

 

[Ranchtruck]

So the pic I attached, the one with the fried hexfets is not my circuit board it was just one I copy and pasted for reference. I’ll upgrade my glow plug system eventually but for now just looking to get it working.

Thank you for the resister info.