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snow / ice tires for deuce

DanielP

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I am looking at a bobbed deuce or 5 ton for use here in Utah. We live at 7500 ft and have lots of snow and ice to drive on from November through April. So I am interested in recommendations for tires (oversized tires of I get a deuce) which will do well in snow and ice on a regular basis. Of course I can put tire chains on, but doing that on a regular basis is time consuming, although of course I would keep a set of 4 chains for hunting trips as well as funning in the desert.

In addition, does anyone know of STUDDED tires that are appropriate for a deuce or 5 ton? We find studded tires almost a necessity on our pickup truck and 4 runner because of ice.

Thanks!
 

11Echo

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I am looking at a bobbed deuce or 5 ton for use here in Utah. We live at 7500 ft and have lots of snow and ice to drive on from November through April. So I am interested in recommendations for tires (oversized tires of I get a deuce) which will do well in snow and ice on a regular basis. Of course I can put tire chains on, but doing that on a regular basis is time consuming, although of course I would keep a set of 4 chains for hunting trips as well as funning in the desert.

In addition, does anyone know of STUDDED tires that are appropriate for a deuce or 5 ton? We find studded tires almost a necessity on our pickup truck and 4 runner because of ice.

Thanks!

Over-sized tires do not do better on snow/ice. In slick conditions a narrower footprint affords better traction. You need lbs. per sq. inch for traction on ice. Here's a pic of what the Canadians used on their deuces. Michelin XZL 11R20's singled.
 

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nhdiesel

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I'll 2nd the narrow tire for ice and snow. As for height...it depends on whether you'll venture off the beaten path. If there are times you'll be driving in deep unplowed snow, go for a tall tire (still narrow though). For plowed roads, any height should work fine.

Jim
 

Alex400

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i agree with everything that has been said here. When it comes to snow, a narrow foot print is fine if there is a good solid bottom underneath. if there isn't you will just sink. why does a snow cat have wide tracks? so that it can float on top of the snow. if there is a bottom to the snow, skinny tires are a huge a plus, but if you need to float on top, wider tires would be better.
 

11Echo

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i agree with everything that has been said here. When it comes to snow, a narrow foot print is fine if there is a good solid bottom underneath. if there isn't you will just sink. why does a snow cat have wide tracks? so that it can float on top of the snow. if there is a bottom to the snow, skinny tires are a huge a plus, but if you need to float on top, wider tires would be better.

A snow cat has wide tracks because it most often travels where there is no road but, cross country. No road, no packed foundation. You can put the widest tire you want on a 13,000 lb deuce or a much heavier 5 ton and it still will not float on snow. Big and heavy as compared to snow cats.
Comparing a track system with rubber tires is like comparing apples to watermelons.:grin:


This vehicle didn't work out even with wide tires, duals and chains.
 

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Alex400

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A snow cat has wide tracks because it most often travels where there is no road but, cross country. No road, no packed foundation. You can put the widest tire you want on a 13,000 lb deuce or a much heavier 5 ton and it still will not float on snow. Big and heavy as compared to snow cats.
Comparing a track system with rubber tires is like comparing apples to watermelons.:grin:


This vehicle didn't work out even with wide tires, duals and chains.
very true, it was a far stretch to compare it to a snow cat or any tracked vehicle, but do you agree that a lower psi can be achieved with a wider tire of the same, allowing the vehicle to not sink as much in snow?
 

11Echo

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very true, it was a far stretch to compare it to a snow cat or any tracked vehicle, but do you agree that a lower psi can be achieved with a wider tire of the same, allowing the vehicle to not sink as much in snow?

I've tried over the years to take my trucks where I wanted to go in snow/winter. I learned long ago to take shovels along. Even when you get some floatation on hard pack, the first time you break through it all you do is spin the tires. It's a pain to be bottomed out and your tires not reaching because the snow you were on is deeper than your ground clearance! I have found that cutting through the snow and keeping the tires on the road surface works best. Where the snow is very deep I rely on the truck to "plow it's way" forward. Whatever method is chosen, all we can do is the best we can.
 

greenjeepster

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When it comes to a wheeled vehicle wide tires in snow is like putting the rig on sleds all the way around. Yes a Snow Cat uses wide tracks, but it also uses long tracks. A tire only makes a 1-2 inch contact area with the ground/snow, a snow cat track contacts 12-15 ft. It is also cleated straight across to eliminate the sled effect. Anybody else on here who has groomed trails with a Snow Cat can verify that they still have a sled effect sideways. That is why you go straight up and straight down the mountain with them, never across, unless you want a rapid ride to the bottom.

As far as studding goes; a tire shop can stud a tire for you, but then you will need two sets, one studded, one not.
 

Alex400

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When it comes to a wheeled vehicle wide tires in snow is like putting the rig on sleds all the way around. Yes a Snow Cat uses wide tracks, but it also uses long tracks. A tire only makes a 1-2 inch contact area with the ground/snow, a snow cat track contacts 12-15 ft. It is also cleated straight across to eliminate the sled effect. Anybody else on here who has groomed trails with a Snow Cat can verify that they still have a sled effect sideways. That is why you go straight up and straight down the mountain with them, never across, unless you want a rapid ride to the bottom.

As far as studding goes; a tire shop can stud a tire for you, but then you will need two sets, one studded, one not.
that is true thanks for that.

i think a tire makes a little bit bigger foot print than that, especially when they are aired down.

to the original poster, i would think chains would be your best bet.
 

saddamsnightmare

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October 30th, 2009.

The michelins on the Canadian Truck or equivalent Goodyears would do better then the NDT/NDCC's on a deuce, and singles would work better then the duals on the back. In W.Va. logging and construction work you soon learn that a deuce with NDT/NDCC tires is about useless in snow or really deep mud, and chains help in either situation.
I would three rail the chains on the duals if you keep them, and learn to love them in deep snow. For some reason the Unimog with locking differentials, Uniroayals or grooved NDT's with chains are much more formidable snow vehicles then the deuce is...... I've seen Unimogs go places I would not dream of trying in a stock deuce, empty or loaded. BUT loads in the back of the deuce will give you a better chance in any case.... the tandem duals "float" too much when empty or lightly loaded (too much tire surface, too low PSI on the ground). Strangely enough, I have seen Model "T" Fords with the original tires, chained or not, go places you'd never expect them to get through, and I suspect it is because the tires are tall and narrow that they cut through mud and snow.... just a guess....

Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan:p

NB I have 5 Goodyear G177 M+S for sale with 95-100% remaining tread...$750.00 the set plus shipping.....:-D
 

nhdiesel

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Yea, you'll never get a typical wheeled vehicle to float on snow. The closest thing to an exception was when I used to 'wheel Suzuki Samurais in the winter. I would air down to zero PSI (yup, NO air pressure) with 33" tires. With a 2000 lb. vehicle, it would kind of float, and I've gone through/over 3' deep snow with it. It would still sink, but nowhere near to the bottom.

Any other vehicle I've owned had the best luck with tall & skinny tires.

Jim
 

LanceRobson

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Pinnacle, Stokes County, NC
Forget NDTs or NDCCs for snow and ice.

I have pushed through bumper deep drifts of dry snow with my singled M35A2 and 11.00R20 XLs . In wet snow I try to avoid anything much deeper than the top of the axles. Ice is a crap shoot.

Here is some info on XL pressures http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/40128-correct-11-00R20-xl-tire-pressure.html?highlight=pressure

You can get an air powered stud gun and stud any tire. You can also sipe most any tire. Tools for both can be had from epay. Info on correct technique can be had with a search of this site or a web search, Pirate4x4 has siping info, too. Note that studded tires can only be driven in season but siped tires can be driven year round so for studded tires you'd need a set of summer sneakers. Also note that if you want any tire to do well in snow or ice conditions, you'll need some more weight than an empty bed. Anything short of a wrecker hasn't got enough weight over the driven axles for reliable traction.

Lance
 

bhadden

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If you are serious about getting around in the snow, chain it up. Been plowing snow up at 9,000ft here in NM (at least the years is does snow) for ten plus years and have tried it without (no way). I have an heavyweight Western plow and push 10 miles off pavement, with help from my neighbor who has another deuce setup the same way. We are lucky in that when I chain up, it normally stays chained up til spring. And don't forget the shovel, as was previously mentioned! :grin:
 
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