Some questions about winterizing my 1009 for a move to Alaska.

[m1garand_man]

I'll be moving to Alaska in september and and wondering about winterizing my M1009. Right now I'm in central MT and am no stranger to operating this bad boy in -20 or lower temps. I need to prep it for -60 though. I currently have an oil pan heater but want to add a coolant heater (either block or inline) and a tranny pan heater. I also am running Shell Rotella T 15w40 oil in it and am wondering if this weight will still work out well in Alaska during the winter. Right now the truck sounds angry when I start it at -20 lol. So I usually let it idle for a few minutes before I take off.

It was also converted to 12v by the previous owner and has a gear reduction starter which helps with cold starts. The batteries are premium ones that are ran in parallell. If I understand correctly that should double the current available correct? I know there can be issues with 12v conversions if not done right but I figure in 5 years and having put 43k miles on it I would know by now if it had problems. Will battery blankets still be necessary in my case?

I am wondering about the coolant and coolant heater though. For one I understand that I should mix my coolant to -60 protection but I am wondering about overheating in the summer with that strong of a mix. Also I am thinking that a freeze plug style block heater would be best but I have also heard of issues with them damaging the cylinder closest to the heater. Is that true?

 

[paladin1176]

Battery blanket or battery chargers are a must as well. I grew up in Fairbanks and we had a whole pile of stuff we would throw on to keep her at least decently warm. Another item we used to keep fuel lines decent was a drop light with a low wattage bulb. Won't put out a ton of heat, but it is enough to keep the lines near the filter assembly warm.

What part are you heading to?

 

[m1garand_man]

Fairbanks. I didnt think of the fuel lines. Won't running an anti gel additive or maybe #1 diesel or 50/50 if its available fix those issues? BTW I plan on driving my Dodge mostly in the winter while I am up there but I want to be prepared.

 

[paladin1176]

Adding the additive and using winter diesel will help, keeping the fuel line warm helps the initial startup. At a certain point it's just gonna be **** cold and that can cause the solids to build up. I take it you're going to Ft. Wainwright?

 

[m1garand_man]

Adding the additive and using winter diesel will help, keeping the fuel line warm helps the initial startup. At a certain point it's just gonna be **** cold and that can cause the solids to build up. I take it you're going to Ft. Wainwright?

Yessir I am. I havent ever ran into any problems running this truck at -20 here in MT with #2 and stanadyne additive. So I guess we will see what happens. I suppose if in doubt I will run 50/50 with additive. I would be surprised if it get cold enough to have to use additive with #1. I figure on days when it gets below -30 to -40 I'll drive the dodge. That is unless I am in a test running mood and have the significant other ready to come pick me up. lol

 

[nyoffroad]

I can't say anything about Al. or that kind of cold, but I used a block heater on a civvie 6.2 for about 5yrs and never had a problem. Still have the engine in the garage as a spare. Also I used to use Rotella 15-40 and awitched to Rotella syn/blend in the gray jug, it starts faster and I swear I felt a difference in power when I first changed it.

 

[Lagers4myhead]

I live down in Valdez but it's warmer here than -20 so I can't offer much advice, good luck and enjoy your time in Alaska.

 

[rosco]

Additives only take #2 fuel down so far - not much less then -20 F. With #2, one gets a little better milage, but you need to switch to #1. The #2 stuff will get you in trouble big time - not worth the pain. Heat pad on your tranny is great. The secret to good longevity for you engine, is to put plenty of heat on it. I never subscribed to the battery blankets. You should be fine with the two batteries in parallel. What most Folks miss, when talking about the cold, is the "cold soaking" that takes place here. -20F over night is just that, then warming. -20 or colder, for months on end is something else. Gas stations switch to #1 fuel early enough in the season, from #2, so you won't have a problem. You just have to remember which fuel you have in a vehicle that isn't run too much, and get it switched over, 100%, #1. If you have straight #1, there will be no concern about your fuel line. You oil is good - we all run some version of it, like Dello 400, what ever your flavor choice is. Just use plenty of heat. -50F for a week on end is a Light Year away from -20. 1500 watt tank heaters are OK - ran them for years, but freeze plug heaters are a little more efficient, if you can get one on each side. Route the wiring well, so it doesn't get chafed or burned from exhaust.

 

[M1009 NEWBEE 2013]

Block heater was added to mine this winter in Colorado had a snap of -17 to -25 for over a week (which is cold for Colorado) and it started everyday/morning. I also added oil pan pad heater and plugged both in for 2 hours or so before I left. I had it set on a timer to come on at 330am. worked great. Truck was blowing warm heat at start up.

 

[natemccabe]

Other than my 12 year old 6tls going kaput. Standard issue block heater and a battery charger, winter cold front. I just ran regular diesel outta the pump. I would suggest a aux cab heater tho, the stock one barely made a dent.