Spare 6.2L engine question

[NormB]

Got an offer from a friend for a 1983 6.2L civilian Blazer/GM motor with about 47k miles on it. Was on a plow truck and salt/rust has killed the truck so he's parting it out.

He's got the engine set up for a serpentine belt drive, new 12V civ. alternator, water pump, fan/etc, all of which I'd be removing.

I have a set of spare 6.2L heads I've had magnafluxed, pressure tested, and can be ready to use w/ valve grinding, new valve stem gaskets for about $150.

I've thought about picking up a "spare" for my 1992, a "project" I could tear down, re-ring, hone cylinders, check the main bearings, basically do a minor rebuild, wrap it up, pickle it, "just in case".

Question is:

What kind of a pig in a poke am I getting here?

Anything about that year range engine I should be leary of? block problems, crank problems, cam problems? Look for a later model engine maybe?

Not a "gimme", he's asking $350, and I figure I might just about break even if I sell the heads, water pump, serpentine setup.

Any and all creative comments welcome.

Thanks.

Norm

 

[Bulldogger]

I've been considering the same approach, but thankfully haven't found a donor engine. I say thankfully because the last thing I need is another project and a torn down V8 taking up space in my garage.

Still, if you do it, please document it. It might make it more approachable for others like me.

BDGR

 

[springer1981]

I'm not an expert on the engines in the Humvee's but everything I've read anywhere dealing with the engines put the 6.5 GEP version at the top of the list for reliability and strength. If I were going to consider any "bolt in" replacement for the GM 6.2 or 6.5 it would only be a 6.5 GEP.

 

[NormB]

I'm not an expert on the engines in the Humvee's but everything I've read anywhere dealing with the engines put the 6.5 GEP version at the top of the list for reliability and strength. If I were going to consider any "bolt in" replacement for the GM 6.2 or 6.5 it would only be a 6.5 GEP.

Well, it's not a "bolt-in".

There's a wiring harness to think of, that's about another $250 to $750 investment and it's got to be the right one to match the year/model M998.

For parts availability, relative "ease" of replacement (no wiring harness issues mainly), and price - no one's giving away 6.5L GEPs for $300-600 and I've seen MANY in that price range this past year or three.

Friend has the 6.5, I don't think the extra ten horsepower makes a yuge difference and I'm not hauling a trailer or troops.

But thanks.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I wouldn’t even consider it with all the takeout GEP 6.5’s available....and I’m taking about late style serpentine with remote PS reservoir setups.

 

[ohiohmmwv]

I have a whole rolling chassis with powertrain if you’re needing one.

 

[springer1981]

When I use the term "bolt in" it means without major modifications to make work. All 6.2 and 6.5 GM and GEP are basically "bolt ins". You are correct that different years may require different parts that also "bolt in". A Duramax conversion would be something that I would not consider a "Bolt in".

I understand about the cost. Though I have found that with some searching you can find stuff at reasonable prices. Someone might have a take out they just want to get rid of because they did a Duramax conversion or something. Never know until you look around.

The extra 10Hp has nothing to do with the suggestion. From what I understand, based on much reading, the GM 6.2 and GM 6.5 have inherently weak bottom ends. Cranks that break and weak crank bearing cap attachments. Add to that castings that can break as well. And the list goes on.

If you are building a spare engine is it because you expect the stock one to fail? If there is nothing wrong with it then why would you need a spare? Do you have spare engines for all your vehicles? My point being if you are building a spare because you expect a failure then you would also expect the replacement to fail as well since it is virtually identical.

I also have a 1992 but mine has a GM 6.5 that appears to be the original engine. I've though about similar scenario's for all the reasons I listed above. If I stay with the stock platform (6.5NA) then I would only move forward if it fails, GEP 6.5 and a 4sp at the same time.

In your original post you asked this "Anything about that year range engine I should be leary of? block problems, crank problems, cam problems? Look for a later model engine maybe?"

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Well, it's not a "bolt-in".

There's a wiring harness to think of, that's about another $250 to $750 investment and it's got to be the right one to match the year/model M998.

For parts availability, relative "ease" of replacement (no wiring harness issues mainly), and price - no one's giving away 6.5L GEPs for $300-600 and I've seen MANY in that price range this past year or three.

Friend has the 6.5, I don't think the extra ten horsepower makes a yuge difference and I'm not hauling a trailer or troops.

But thanks.

you would in fact have to actually put an engine harness on for an A0-A1 truck, the motor and setup for which I referenced are for a 4L80e and have no provision for the kickdown wire that runs to the trans, A2 uses TPS instead.....I think your underestimating the useabke HP and torque you would actually get out these newer motors.

 

[NormB]

I wouldn’t even consider it with all the takeout GEP 6.5’s available....and I’m taking about late style serpentine with remote PS reservoir setups.

Thanks for responding, I was waiting for you to dive in (seemed like a question that would pique your interest).

Looking like 6.5 GEP is the way to go "for a spare" and yes, to other posters, I do expect, no, anticipate, this engine won't last forever.

I don't have "spares" for my other vehicles but I do have extended warranties.

For a vehicle like this, I think it pays to have some spares around, finding/pickling an engine now might save me a lot of time/trouble/expense in future, and if I don't need it, why, there's a whole 'nother generation of FMV collectors coming online day by day and I'm certain one of them might find my price reasonable.

Thanks again.

 

[lowell66dart]

Well since it came from a Blazer it may have had a 700 R4 tranny. If the TV cable bracket is still on the engine that's an easy $100. Sell the IP and anything else you won't use. You may come out with a spare engine for hardly anything.

 

[snowtrac nome]

things to think about early 6.2's had coarse thread injectors than around 90 they went from a 2 piece rear main to a full circle rear main the flywheels between the 2 are not interchangeable. I believe the flywheel between the gen 3 6.2 and 6.5 are interchangeable.

 

[BLK HMMWV]

Well if it was me. I'd upgrade to the 6.5 / 4l80.
If your going to store a 6.2 on an engine stand in your garage then why not it be a 6.5 instead on the engine stand.
Start acquiring the parts now. your in no hurry to replace it if yours is still running.
Why swap out another 6.2 ?
6.5 with 4l80 is night and day over what you have now.
if you are going to the trouble of swapping out motors and trans it only makes sense to upgrade

 

[shawnshumvee]

Well if it was me. I'd upgrade to the 6.5 / 4l80.
If your going to store a 6.2 on an engine stand in your garage then why not it be a 6.5 instead on the engine stand.
Start acquiring the parts now. your in no hurry to replace it if yours is still running.
Why swap out another 6.2 ?
6.5 with 4l80 is night and day over what you have now.
if you are going to the trouble of swapping out motors and trans it only makes sense to upgrade

Agreed! The 6.5 Gep optimizer Is a very good engine. After my research on the 6.2 L I am so thankful mine didn’t have one under the hood. And after more research on my block numbers and valley castings I have a 2005 6.5 GEP with Navistar block.

 

[Chief_919]

The extra 10Hp has nothing to do with the suggestion. From what I understand, based on much reading, the GM 6.2 and GM 6.5 have inherently weak bottom ends. Cranks that break and weak crank bearing cap attachments. Add to that castings that can break as well. And the list goes on.

Honestly there is a lot of misunderstanding of what causes bottom end failures on these engines. They are not as bad as the reputation.

Almost all 6.2 bottom end failures I have seen can be traced to two factors- bad harmonic balancers and people running them at or near redline.

If your harmonic balancer goes bad you will trash the bottom end. And almost always when that happens people blame it on weak blocks or weak cranks. But 95% of the blown 6.2's I have seen had bad harmonic balancers, but people never even look at them even after they blow an engine.

The other cause is people buying trucks with low gearing and then running them pushed all the way to the governer on the highway.

If you make sure your balancer is good and don't drive it like a fool and there is little chance you will have bottom end issues.
The newer GEP engines are stronger, but if you maintain you engine properly it shouldn't be needed on a stock NA engine.

Harmonic balancers on 6.2's should be treated as a periodic maintenance item and replaced every 10 years or 100k miles. There are some engines out there that will run on just rough with a bad balancer, but the 6.2 and 6.5 will self destruct with a bad one. So its cheap insurance.

 

[dependable]

To the original question, the 82s and into 83 had some differences between them and all that followed. Those included the different injector threads, which has been mentioned. All of the old style ones I've seen were red from the factory, and the "new type" somewhere into '83 and beyond were the more familiar grey.

The red ones had a reputation for early failure, whether justified or not, I do not know. It may be they were killed by either, or the tendency for the glow plugs to break off in them due to an over complicated glow plug system that used 6V plugs that would get 12V and fail when the controller burnt out, which happened often.

I have also read, unconfirmed by me, the red blocks actually had superior metallurgy, and are preferred by some who like to "build" them.

The difference of the 10 HP is the difference between the "C code" and "J Code" motors, which is mainly the IP, and omission of emissions on the J code ones. J code motors were available in some 1 ton civilian trucks, as well as the CUCVs. Best way to check that is engine serial #, as many civy 6.2 equipped trucks are not on their original motor.