Spare parts

[danjrofpa]

Can anyone suggest what spare parts should be kept on hand for the MEP 003 ? Just curious as to what you would want to have on hand for a quick repair during a long term power outage. I plan to load test the set monthly as a preventative maintenance routine.
Thanks

 

[1800 Diesel]

Can anyone suggest what spare parts should be kept on hand for the MEP 003 ? Just curious as to what you would want to have on hand for a quick repair during a long term power outage. I plan to load test the set monthly as a preventative maintenance routine.
Thanks

I always have spare fuel & oil filters, (and gaskets for each), a couple fuses for the DC side. If you can come across one, a spare voltage regulator for the DC charging circuit is not a bad idea either. Our MEP3 charging circuit just decided to start overcharging the batteries during this month's test run & now I am in the process of getting a replacement regulator.

Fuel hoses can also break down & start leaking, so I keep a couple standard fuel hoses (not OEM type) with the brass JIC 37 end with push-in type barb to go into the hose. I keep one spare for the small one at the fuel pumps, a middle length size & one to match the longest one. You can always just keep one short one & one long one to save a little money, but I like having more than less for spares....

I also keep large quantities of fuel additive, OB motor oil (mixed in the diesel for IP & injector lubrication), some algaecide & of course, large quantities of fuel.

I don't have one myself, but an oil pressure switch would be a good spare to have too, since a bad one will shut things down--unless you can bypass it.

 

[Isaac-1]

If you are electronically minded get a spare output transistor for the AC voltage regulator also, it is a simple 5 minute soldering job to change it out, and should cost less than $5, this is the most common failure component on these voltage regulators.

Ike

 

[gimpyrobb]

All of that, and I decided a spare IP was good insurance too. Then again, I also have a spare generator rotor, control box, and motor too.

 

[Harleyd315]

Another 002 or 003 is best and the fastest I've found

 

[storeman]

Based on the demand I've seen, DC VR, oil pressure switch, fuel shut of solenoid and IP seem to be the most popular spares.
Jerry

 

[1800 Diesel]

If you are electronically minded get a spare output transistor for the AC voltage regulator also, it is a simple 5 minute soldering job to change it out, and should cost less than $5, this is the most common failure component on these voltage regulators.

Ike

That's good to know Ike. I'm sure it's buried on here somewhere but my success rate in searching is not good. Can you point me in the right direction for a source for the output transistors? I assume I can get the NSN from the TM. Figured at that price I'd get 2 or 3. Also, I recently located my long-lost soldering iron, so I have the technology to perform the job in case it's needed....

 

[johnray13]

If you are electronically minded get a spare output transistor for the AC voltage regulator also, it is a simple 5 minute soldering job to change it out, and should cost less than $5, this is the most common failure component on these voltage regulators.

Ike

If you have a link and product number handy that would be awesome.

 

[johnray13]

Based on the demand I've seen, DC VR, oil pressure switch, fuel shut of solenoid and IP seem to be the most popular spares.
Jerry

Seems like the fuel solenoid could be rebuilt. Has anyone ever do that?

 

[Isaac-1]

The transistor is a 2N3584 (original is JAN or JANX2N3584 which is mil spec batch tested and cost several times the price of the regular commercial product, given modern yield and quality control I don't think they are worth the extra money, cheaper to just buy extras in case you get a bad one ) available from most electronics parts houses (mouser, digikey, newark, etc.) or also commonly found on ebay for under $10 each with shipping. (parts houses will likely have lower price, but minimums and shipping charges can kill you on these cheap items making the ebay resellers a practical choice, they are cheap enough to consider buying an extra). Remember if you change it that transistors are prone to damage by heat, so hold it with a pair of pliers or other heat sink while soldering and use short bursts of soldering letting it cool between soldering leads.

 

[storeman]

Seems like the fuel solenoid could be rebuilt. Has anyone ever do that?

Not to my knowledge.
Jerry

 

[Jimc]

When i just did my refurb i ordered transistors to keep for spare and i found the best price of all those places listed was newark. I dont know how often they go but i changed out and keep spares of the power diodes in the gen end. Those are only a few bucks a piece.

 

[danjrofpa]

Thank you all for the info. I really appreciate it. I will start to assemble my spare parts kit!

 

[1800 Diesel]

The transistor is a 2N3584 (original is JAN or JANX2N3584 which is mil spec batch tested and cost several times the price of the regular commercial product, given modern yield and quality control I don't think they are worth the extra money, cheaper to just buy extras in case you get a bad one ) available from most electronics parts houses (mouser, digikey, newark, etc.) or also commonly found on ebay for under $10 each with shipping. (parts houses will likely have lower price, but minimums and shipping charges can kill you on these cheap items making the ebay resellers a practical choice, they are cheap enough to consider buying an extra). Remember if you change it that transistors are prone to damage by heat, so hold it with a pair of pliers or other heat sink while soldering and use short bursts of soldering letting it cool between soldering leads.

Ike,

Tried that # with digikey and got no hits...will try alternate places too. Another question--is this part common to the MEP002A also? Thanks for providing the info.

Kevin

 

[Isaac-1]

According to the -24P manuals this same output transistor is used on all 3 AVR boards commonly found in the MEP-002a and MEP-003a, those being the original boards for each, as well as when the 400 Hz MEP-112a boards are used as retrofits in the MEP-002a (which seems to be common on recent rebuilds).

 

[1800 Diesel]

According to the -24P manuals this same output transistor is used on all 3 AVR boards commonly found in the MEP-002a and MEP-003a, those being the original boards for each, as well as when the 400 Hz MEP-112a boards are used as retrofits in the MEP-002a (which seems to be common on recent rebuilds).

Ike,

Thanks--looks like I need to order a half-dozen or so.

 

[HawkeyeMech]

Anybody know where I can get the cables to hook my MEP-004A up to my M934A2 Expando Van? - Thanks! Steven

 

[bchauvette]

subscribed

 

[amolaver]

i know this is an old thread, but Isaac-1's recommendation of the 2n3584 transistor just saved my bacon. I fired up my 003 a couple weeks ago and watched the oil pressure and output voltage come up per normal. after about 10 seconds, the output voltage gauge pegged to the right. not having come across this before, and since my frequency gauge was DOA from purchase, i initially thought it might be an instrumentation problem..but thought it wise to check with a multimeter before switching the house onto it. smart move - ~170v each leg to ground, about 340 volts leg-to-leg!

after finding this thread and Isaac-1's recommendation for the transistor, then finding a number of threads documenting similar high voltage output with the transistor as the cause, i ordered one up from the bay. happened to be a motorola, $6 shipped to me. got it swapped in today and BAM!, perfect output voltage again. i wouldn't have balked at paying the ~$200 for the 'modern' VR board that is being sold if i needed to...but i'll take $6 instead any day

for those concerned about doing the soldering, there is nothing to it. these are OLD circuit boards, with big fat traces and plenty of room to work. the only advice i'd give is use some thermal paste under the transistor to better conduct heat away from it to the heat sink. i used the stuff that is sold / given away for CPU coolers. a friend had some extra after buying this http://smile.amazon.com/Thermal-The...59123808&sr=8-4&keywords=silver+thermal+paste but you only need a couple small dots (smaller than a pea) to be effective. a local computer store may even have some small packets for cheap. if someone needs some, i've got a nearly whole tube i can send - just PM me. i did have to use a razor knife to cut through the varnish that was essentially glueing the original transistor down, but once that was done, a quick prod with the soldering iron and each leg popped out easily.

ran 30 minutes unloaded to see if things were alright, than another 30 with the house on it. i've got a single zone heat pump (5 tons i'd guess) and while i get a little light dim when it kicks on, it powers the house perfectly. given the expected rebuild interval, with a little care, i expect this generator to outlive me

ahm