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Sparks from below could it be the starter?

edpdx

Active member
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Oregon
The other day I had that starter malady that is generally solved with a couple of bangs from a hammer: I drove to pick someone up. Turned the M1009 off and 5 minutes later; went to restart the engine. I got lights; but no crank. I've had this happen on other GMs so I crawled under with a tire iron and banged it 3 times, cleared out and she started right up. Last night at the Albertson's lot my wife said a shower of sparks were flying when I cranked it up.

This morning the bugger won't start and the hammer is doing no good. I crawled under and see two obvious things: 1. the bracket that holds the screw at the front of the starter was loose and off- the nut and lock-washer absent altogether. 2. there was notable carbon arcing at the connector, no loose wire though?

Any idea what is happening?
 

1986Blazerk5

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Brighton,MI
The other day I had that starter malady that is generally solved with a couple of bangs from a hammer: I drove to pick someone up. Turned the M1009 off and 5 minutes later; went to restart the engine. I got lights; but no crank. I've had this happen on other GMs so I crawled under with a tire iron and banged it 3 times, cleared out and she started right up. Last night at the Albertson's lot my wife said a shower of sparks were flying when I cranked it up.

This morning the bugger won't start and the hammer is doing no good. I crawled under and see two obvious things: 1. the bracket that holds the screw at the front of the starter was loose and off- the nut and lock-washer absent altogether. 2. there was notable carbon arcing at the connector, no loose wire though?

Any idea what is happening?
I think you need a new starter, Do you crank the engine for more than 15 seconds? if you do it will get to hot and wrap the magnets in the starter, these may be your case since you had to hit it with a hammer to get it to spin. Chrysler products are famous for this
 

edpdx

Active member
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Oregon
OK, I think I have to pull the starter and check it out. So most likely the starter and not the solenoid?

I don't like to complicate things; but what I need to know is should I take the starter down to the parts store and ask them for the same thing? Is there a better one that I won't have to mess with (trying different shims or tracking down different brackets). I want a direct replacement, only the best, most reliable, one I can find, since it is out>

Also, is there a trick to removing this thing, or does the bumper bracket need to be pulled? Anything else before I get started?

TIA

Ed
 

dependable

Well-known member
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Tisbury, Massachusetts
I usually unbolt the front drive shaft and tie it out of the way, also disconnect batteries. I would get a gear reduction one. Lots of threads on the subject. Good luck, also male sure insulation is good on top of the battery/starter cable. The heat shield may have been bent with all the hammering down there.
 

edpdx

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Oregon
Uh Oh! I am looking over the starter and the number I get off the case is 1998451 Delco. I plug that in to NAPA and I get: Starter w/ Solenoid - Remfd
Product Line: NAPA Pro Series Electrical

Interchange Mfg.: Delco Remy
Interchange Mfg. Part Number: 1998451
Compare


the detail say this is a 9 tooth 12VOLT! Flag on the field. This cant be. How can I check to see if my truck has suffered a conversion to12V?
 

mistaken1

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How can I check to see if my truck has suffered a conversion to12V?
Are the batteries in series or parallel?

Does the positive of the front battery connect to the negative of the rear battery?

Where does the heavy wire from the starter connect to in the engine compartment?
 

edpdx

Active member
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Location
Oregon
How does the starter get ground? Is it grounded by bolting it to the engine. I see one power wire, and one black/purple wire to the solenoid- this one has some worn off insulation.
 

Grega

Member
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Location
St. Paul Nebraska.
Is grounded by the bolts to the engine. I missunderstood the problem. Like others here, should pull the starter and get it checked out by a good rebuilder.
 

Warthog

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How are the batteries hooked up? Can you post pictures?

Sounds like your mechanic installed the wrong starter. A 12v stater will work in a 24v environment for a short period of time.


Before you procedd further, find out what you have and what has been changed.
 

edpdx

Active member
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Location
Oregon
Batteries look like they do in this diagram. I checked fuses and wiggled some wires before staring (trying) it last night. When I turned the key, there was an odd sound like bacon sizzling. I turned the key off and tried again; but it never came back.

If the batteries are attached as they should be, then did the PO install the wrong starter? Up till now, she's been turning over nice.

I have a starter relay, the Doghead mod, ready to install; but not sure where to start.

Ed
 

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Warthog

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Yes it sounds like the wrong starter was previously installed.

You need to decice if you want to stay with a stock system or go ahead and convert to 12v. I recommend stock. Easier to troubleshoot for us.

Since you have the wrong starter, you can either find a used/rebuilt direct drive, or buy a new gear reduction.

Which ever one you use make sure you use the proper support bracket and buy new starter bolts.
 

edpdx

Active member
794
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28
Location
Oregon
Warthog,

Thanks for the confirmation. I've read some other threads re: switching to a GR starter; seems like I may have a hassle finding brackets. I need to get -up-and-running pronto, so I'll go with a new direct drive. Am I correct on the new starters not needing to be shimmed, as opposed to used one generally needing them?

Finally, I hope, I don't have the right part number, I found these on ebay and if I can get someone to confirm fit on my 85 M1009, I will take the numbers over to napa and get the starter. (10461453 10465015 10479611). Anyone have a preference on how much starter to buy? I see them for $60 -$250.?
 
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