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spicer 3053a top cover questions.

gringeltaube

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Yes, it is.... and Memphis has (used to have) most parts, including the hard-to-find shift plate (#7521063) - which is one of the typical wear items.

No bushing there; lever has what's called a spherical hinge. A spring loaded (brass) seat (#7521096) at the bottom end keeps it in place, pressed against the top seat and a pair of opposed pins/grooves avoid its rotation.
 

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nathantc409

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hmm, well my issue is an audible jingle in the shift lever itself. its a metal on metal rattle. resting my hand firmly on the shifter makes it stop.. removing the shifter while in motion makes it stop. removing the knob made no difference.

there is spring pressure going from center to the left (1st/reverse) but absolutely no pressure going to the right (5th/4th)

this sound may or may not be noticable in the very loud M35A2 that the spicer 3053a came from, but i have one installed in a 1996 dodge ram cummis.

here are a couple videos where you can kinda hear it.. its louder in the video than in reality. windows down at hwy speeds its not noticable at all
 

Menaces Nemesis

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My guess is that you have a shift fork dragging a bit on a synchro collar. Seems others have stated the 3053a can be rather noisy (mine is a bit noisy too). Maybe a locating divit/detent in one of the shift shafts isn't exactly drilled where it should be, or one of the dogs on one of the forks isn't welded exactly where it should be, causing the fork to be a bit fore or aft of collar center when at rest? If your trans doesn't have a magnetic drain plug, I'd install one, and check it for metal bits. I keep different sizes of foam rubber balls (cat toys) to do this kind of thing without draining the lube... just be right there with a foam ball, and squish/thread it in the hole quickly when you remove the plug for inspection. If you're not getting any metal on the plug, maybe there isn't much to be worried about. Maybe Gringeltaube will weigh in. Despite his reluctance to acknowledge it, if he's not an expert, no one is.
 
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nathantc409

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im thinking you might be correct... got a line on another top cover somewhat locally. probably going to buy it and try it.

there is plenty of clearance on the TB to the pressure plate, and the TB and collar are new, everything attached from the slave cylinder to the TB are in spec. there is no noise at all from under the truck. the transmission even after an hour of 70 mph at 2250 rpm in 5th is barely even warm. with the hole in the floor opened up i can place my hand on the top cover while in motion and its smooth as holding the steering wheel. so no excessive vibrations... im honestly starting to think this rattle may be normal and due to the noise in the M35A2 you would never hear it. i hate to go and buy another top cover just to have the same issue.

photo is to clarify how the slave is set up.. its a pull style. keeps the TB more than 1/8th" away from the fingers on the pressure plate, and allows full relese of the clutch.
 

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nathantc409

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Others may disagree, my opinion is, if it's fuctioning properly, staying cool, and you're not getting chunkies on the drain plug, consider the noise part of the trans's "charm" :)
lol, im afraid that you may be correct. might have to make a shift handle out of something other than metal to kill the harmonics... or figure out some way of attaching a damer to it.. its perfectly in sync with the clatter of the cummins and exhaust note... really leaning towards it being harmonics like loose change in a cup holder.
 

doghead

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Please do not cross post.
 

doghead

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M35a2c shifter trouble/sloppy, is where you posted about your transmission issues also.

It's best to keep all of your transmission discussion in one thread.
 

nathantc409

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I see a lot of OEM shifters especially any Dodge truck with a Cummins having a damper built into the shift. Maybe doing so to my shifter would help.

Is the shift lever stub removable from the shift tower without removing the top cover I know some Transmissions have an anti rattle plunger or spring that usually easily accessible by removing this.
 

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gringeltaube

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I see a lot of OEM shifters especially any Dodge truck with a Cummins having a damper built into the shift. Maybe doing so to my shifter would help.
My thought, also.
Is the shift lever stub removable from the shift tower without removing the top cover
No. I thought it was clear from what I posted above?

Below is a photo from the super-nice ORD 9 SNL G-742 parts book (printed 65 years ago and so much better than all later versions...!)

That short lever only comes out after you have removed almost every other component.. Dis- and reassembly of the seat/spring/snap-ring can be a bit tricky, but not impossible. (I have done quite a few, so far...)
 

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nathantc409

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My thought, also.

No. I thought it was clear from what I posted above?

Below is a photo from the super-nice ORD 9 SNL G-742 parts book (printed 65 years ago and so much better than all later versions...!)

That short lever only comes out after you have removed almost every other component.. Dis- and reassembly of the seat/spring/snap-ring can be a bit tricky, but not impossible. (I have done quite a few, so far...)
awesome, thanks. im going to hit the local salvage yards today. going to find a shift lever isolator to instal as i think that will end my issues. i can feel that large spring is still intact in the shifter by pressing down on it quite hard. im thinking im getting different harmonics in the metal itself due to my modifications to the shift lever to clear the dash.

had to add a piece of angle iron to extend it past the dash and exaggerate the two bends in it as well.

this is in reverse. you can see why i needed to modify it.
 

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gringeltaube

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Yeah, 1st - N - REV is a rather long travel, compared to the other gears. In its original application it pretty much takes up all the room between seat and dash.

I see the need for the extra-bends in your case, but that piece of angle iron there...☹ (not very factory-looking, if you allow MHO)
Also wondering why you made the lever that long - and the knob being way up?
It really doesn't take much force at all to shift this transmission, especially if we are patient enough and wait for the exact right moment to change gears. (I know, you are... ☺)
 

nathantc409

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Yeah, 1st - N - REV is a rather long travel, compared to the other gears. In its original application it pretty much takes up all the room between seat and dash.

I see the need for the extra-bends in your case, but that piece of angle iron there...☹ (not very factory-looking, if you allow MHO)
Also wondering why you made the lever that long - and the knob being way up?
It really doesn't take much force at all to shift this transmission, especially if we are patient enough and wait for the exact right moment to change gears. (I know, you are... ☺)
1st and reverse, that should explain the odd bends and the angle iron was added because in reverse it would hit the dash right at the shifter stub. there was no way to make it bend any sharper. though all of that is hidden under the boot.

currently uploading videos to youtube
used a random shift lever from a ford truck (has built in shift lever isolator) so the sound is now gone, looks 100% factory except for needing to finish some carpet work. removed the center seat. will build or buy a center console that jives well with the shifter travel.
 

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