Spicer3053a

Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
333
259
63
Location
Denver, Colorado
No metal in the sump. This may have been this way for a while, as I have only driven it down the highway twice, and its always on a gravel (good areas) road or worse, so I may have not noticed. If I can get the mainshaft rear bearing out, then the mainshaft should move to the rear, lifting the front up and out, and the whole assembly will come out? If that works, I should be able to replace the mainshaft and second gear without pulling the transmission. Guyfang has generously posted the TM's which has the tolerances. BTW the spell check must be a old sailor. its changed every "mainshaft" to mainsheet.
What you asked is correct on removing the mainshaft, you just need to keep an eye out for the non-caged bearings falling out the back of the input shaft as you remove the mainshaft. Regarding 2nd gear, Gringeltaube has recommended grinding oil channels into the shoulder adjacent to the 2nd gear bore, so more lube gets to the shaft... Hey Gerhard, you got a pic of that you can share with us again?
If you do have to replace the mainshaft, don't forget that great deal Boyce has on them; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Military-T...245080&hash=item28204263dd:g:KCYAAMXQxzZRfKbP
 

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,643
1,578
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
how much movement (inch) should the 1/R gear slide on the shaft?
FWIW, total shift shaft travel is 2-1/4". Maybe add 1/32" at each end, with the top cover off.

To the vid: that IS a bit too much play...! Most likely it froze to the shaft, at one time. Parts may look like the ones pictured in this post...
 

Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
333
259
63
Location
Denver, Colorado
One very important thing to remember... as stated in the TM, when removing 2nd gear from the mainshaft; only press 2nd gear about 1/4", just enough to grab the 2-3 syncro sleeve with a bearing spreader, then press ONLY the sleeve off the shaft by itself. I've seen pics of the carnage when we get too giddy and press 2nd gear right over the top of the 2-3 sleeve keys... OUCH!
 

davidb56

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
916
875
93
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
What you asked is correct on removing the mainshaft, you just need to keep an eye out for the non-caged bearings falling out the back of the input shaft as you remove the mainshaft. Regarding 2nd gear, Gringeltaube has recommended grinding oil channels into the shoulder adjacent to the 2nd gear bore, so more lube gets to the shaft... Hey Gerhard, you got a pic of that you can share with us again?
If you do have to replace the mainshaft, don't forget that great deal Boyce has on them; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Military-T...245080&hash=item28204263dd:g:KCYAAMXQxzZRfKbP
It looks like a oil hole is bored/drilled in the shoulder of the 2nd gear. So how do it get the loose bearings back around the shaft when I re assemble it? grease?
 

davidb56

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
916
875
93
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
I trying to find another second gear within tolerance. Not much luck so far. I got a new main shaft though, just no gear to put on it.
 

davidb56

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
916
875
93
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
Found one at Memphis Equipment. Brand new! Boyce had a new shaft also on sale for 50$. so when I get the parts, i'll be back pulling Tamarack and Hemlock out of the forest for next year...in 3 feet of snow.
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,344
281
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
I'd almost be willing to bet that you had a combination of things happen. The slack that you have certainly isn't correct, but that shouldn't have kept you from getting it into 1/R. I'm betting that your park brake stuck hard and you were in just the right place that you couldn't get your gears to mesh without a tiny bit of roll of the truck one way or the other. My park brake has stuck hard enough before that I've had to rev the engine and dump the clutch to break it loose. Had the brake released and the truck moved a hair it would've gone into gear.
 

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,643
1,578
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
.... you had a combination of things happen.
That...! There must have been something else because if it was only the parking brake that got stuck or frozen, that may not allow you to back-up the truck one inch, but you could still shift the transmission into any gear, while the engine is running and clutch depressed.

This is what the OP experienced when this all happened in the middle of the woods....(I'm quoting this from his PM)
.... started up the truck, and it wouldn't shift anywhere, not even into neutral. when I eased the clutch out, it almost killed the engine and the truck didn't seem like it was trying to move either direction.
Most likely the transmission was in reverse gear at that moment, but I don't see any reason for a wind-up situation, so much that he could not move the shifter out of R and into neutral position, at least.

He also stated that ".... recently my 5 speed spicer 3053a has started being difficult getting it into reverse."
That alone indicates other issues and I don't think it has anything to with the parking brake.
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,344
281
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
Yes! But how has it been difficult to get into reverse? Is it physically difficult to place into gear, or has it been grinding while going into reverse? This could be two different issues entirely.
 

davidb56

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
916
875
93
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
I don't use the parking brake when Im on flat ground, which I was. I shut down the engine, hooked up the pulling cable, got in and started it up, then the shifter wouldn't move into 1st gear. It was stuck. It wouldn't move from the position it was in, which "seemed" to be between first and reverse. Ive had a few times this last month that the shifter was difficult to go into first or reverse when I started it up to move it. No grinding at all and absolutely no parking brake issues. I spend more time under my truck than most, because I live remote, and if things break far away, you could end up with a long hike , or dead. My grease gun gets used, and the oil fill levels are checked about every 3-4 months. I have received the new gear and it was in the original box. It has the oil grooves Gringeltaube has posted about, and the old one did too. So I'll put it all back together with a new mainshaft, second gear and rebuilt top cover, fill it with oil, and run it up the mountain. I really appreciate the input from everyone and have kept a close eye on the parking brake because of the problems others have had, and the damn thing always tries to poke me in the ass whenever I get out of the truck.....another reason not to use the damn thing....I wonder if Barney Frank designed it.
 

davidb56

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
916
875
93
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
I
I'd almost be willing to bet that you had a combination of things happen. The slack that you have certainly isn't correct, but that shouldn't have kept you from getting it into 1/R. I'm betting that your park brake stuck hard and you were in just the right place that you couldn't get your gears to mesh without a tiny bit of roll of the truck one way or the other. My park brake has stuck hard enough before that I've had to rev the engine and dump the clutch to break it loose. Had the brake released and the truck moved a hair it would've gone into gear.
I assure you if I dumped the clutch on that transmission, I'd be towing it back home. Before I hiked down to a road, I crawled under the truck and checked the parking brake, then got my jack out and jacked up the front member to spin a wheel and see if it was binding. If I had both my 20 ton jacks, I would have jacked up the rear end on both sides then tried to rotate the wheels to un bind it. In fact, thats what I brought back up with my friend when he suggested giving it a tug first. It would be easier to repair it right there, than towing it. I was in a remote spot and the traveled road was 5 miles away. So at this point, all I can do is replace the wore parts and give it another run. The good thing is that the conditions are the same...snow and Ice. The bad is that its real cold under it and cardboard only insulates so much.
 

davidb56

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
916
875
93
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
I don't know if its all sorted out yet. Im in the "process of elimination". With your and others help/suggestions, I can avoid buying too many parts that I don't need yet. The parking brake and shift plate has caused many here headaches, so its natural to check them first. I rather start from the outside first, then tear things apart. My Dad used to say "let something develop" when we heard a noise that couldn't be recognized. But that was where we could hitch hike home, get a strap and car to tow it back for repairs. Thats not the case here.
 

davidb56

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
916
875
93
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
NOTE: third gear has a small counter bore on one side that fits OVER the snap ring. so you must make sure you use a drift and seat the snap ring in its groove, and then slide the gear on and check it. That way the thrust washer and snap ring will be in the right depth, or you'll have to pull the gear and sleeve off again and set the snap ring properly. ...Good thing about working outside, the shaft is 20F, and the wood stove where I heat the sleeve is 250F. Things go on without stressing my little press.
 

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,643
1,578
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
TM 9-2520-246-34, pages 3-13 & 3-14:

h. Mainshaft Rear Bearing. With the use of a block
of wood, drive the mainshaft rearward to force the
rear bearing from the transmission case. (See fig. 3-26.)
Use a universal puller to remove the rear bearing from the mainshaft.
1628213734969.png
Figure 3-26. Removal of Mainshaft Rear Bearing.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks