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spin on inline oil filter guys: where did you find one?

sp00n

Active member
162
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Location
Huntsville, AL
I'm trying to assemble my WMO recovery/processing kit and I have everything together except for a filter for my pump. I've found one online that is exactly what I want, but its about 150$ more than I think its worth:

By-Pass Filters and Mounting Systems

I want a spin on filter (with a common, easily available filter) inline with my pump. I KNOW several people here have one, where did you get it?



Also for the people about to call me cheap or to search: I don't have time to let it gravity filter through a pair of old pants or some coffee filters. Googling by-pass filter or remote filter brings back mostly people asking how to get rid of oil after changing it or enormous filters for semi trucks. As usual the search function on this site brings back minimal relevant results.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I've been playing with filtering "fuel" for a couple years now, I will throw my 2 cents in. Yes you should thin your oil with gas or something thin to help it flow through the filters easier. Yes it makes it go quicker. Yes 100% wmo will flow through a fuel filter. No, pumping through two filters is not better. I once thought it was, but after filtering a LOT of fuel, it does not. There is one exception, that is if you use two different filter ratings. This is just what I have found, if you feel some other way is better, great.
 

westfolk

Active member
308
156
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Location
PA
As I have done for years.....

Fill tank. When that's full start filling the next, Repeat that last step, and again.

Now the first one has sat for awhile. Turn the pump on and tranfer and filter to a clean tank. I run around 10 GPM, 3 stage filter setup. I have a 100 mesh screen on the end of what I drop in the tank. First filter is 50 micron, second 30 micron, third 10 micron. Each filter is a spin-on and costs me $3. I can normally filter about 500 gallons before changing out. This is mostly due to the time of allowing things to settle in the tank. The pump is a Redline. My total cost for everything a few years ago was around $150. It has long ago paid for itself having done somewhere around 10K gallons of filtering.

I use everything that will burn, and get it free. If I have a lot of gear oil, etc. I cut it down with gasoline that I get from a scrap yard. Though for a lot of the work trucks during the summer months they run 100% oil, whatever the oil might be.

For a decent American made pump google Redline pumps. You can buy them ready to go, or just buy the pump and put the rest together yourself.
 
12
0
0
Location
fennville, MI
Tractor Supply is a good resource for this. I got my setup there. They have both spin-on can and bowl filter housings ($30 for housing and filter). They also have small and large waterblock cans, standard cans, waterblock bowl elements, and standard bowl elements (all are 10 micron rated fuel filters). To do finer filtering I also get 3 micron filters through a local hydraulics shop that get me zinga's generic "AE-03" filter. To hook up to the housing bodies I got plastic plumbing adapters (I believe they are 1" thread to a 3/4" hose) along with hose and 1/6hp submersible water pump at Menards. It is not anything fancy, but it works.
 
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PropDr

Member
127
1
18
Location
Riverside Ca
If you want a inexpensive pump that will put up with some serous abuse buy a small block chevy oil pump. They go for less than $20. As for spin on adapters try your local VW shop, I picked up a name brand one for $9 that takes a PH8A ford filter. The PH8A I think is rated at 30-40 microns, so it would make for a good primary filter to get the chunkies out. Oh, for safty reasons don't use a brush type motor to run the oil pump if your going to cut the oil with gas.
 

westfolk

Active member
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43
Location
PA
Filter heads are Zinga. 3/4" NPT inlet/outlet. Filter Head Base Zinga ZAF-07-25-0

I run NAPA filters(WIX). I do get them cheap. More so than most people. When you buy in the neighborhood of 2K filters a year you get a discount.
I don't know the numbers right off. I could look. I'm putting another one together in my free time. I think that one has different filters on it than I've been using. Must have got them cheaper or something.

Here's a link. I disable the by-pass.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-059&catname=hydraulic
 

westfolk

Active member
308
156
43
Location
PA
NAPA#...1614(141 micron, good for grabbing the big stuff), 1553(33 micron), 1552(20 micron), 1551(10 micron).
 

sp00n

Active member
162
26
28
Location
Huntsville, AL
I built a filter setup using a remote filter ment for a Fram PH8A filter and bought the WIX equivalent instead (~15mic instead of 20+)
Trans Dapt 1028 Trans Dapt Performance Products Oil Filter Relocation Kits


I originally bought a pneumatic pump from Harbor Freight because I have air in my shop and air on the deuce if I'm draining a donators tank. This pump sucked (figuratively) and I got lucky that Harbor Freight kind of has a no questions asked return policy. I have a lever "well type" pump that I got for free and its very, very slow. Takes about 10 minutes of pumping to fill a 5gal bucket, but I did manage to crank about 35 gallons of WMO through the filter and into my truck. Runs good so far.

Tomorrow I'm going to go to TSC and see about a new pump, if nothing else I want a rotary hand pump instead of this well style. Lots of the WMO I get has gasoline in it, so my choices are a little more limited.
 

PropDr

Member
127
1
18
Location
Riverside Ca
I take it you don't like the chevy oil pump idea? They move around 9 gal a minute and gear pumps are hard to destroy.

Oh btw nopics
 

goldwing2000

Banned
506
15
18
Location
Ingham County, Michigan
NAPA#...1614(141 micron, good for grabbing the big stuff), 1553(33 micron), 1552(20 micron), 1551(10 micron).
Awesome, thanks. I actually found that 1553 myself and picked one up yesterday. I'm going to use the 4006 fuel filter for my 10 micron, though. I have easy (free) access to them. Can you think of any reason to not use it?

I started building my setup yesterday with the HF "clear Water" pump. Just have to wire it in, plumb the bypass and see how it works.
 

sp00n

Active member
162
26
28
Location
Huntsville, AL
I take it you don't like the chevy oil pump idea? They move around 9 gal a minute and gear pumps are hard to destroy.

Oh btw nopics

I've replaced a few while working on cars and don't doubt they'd move enough oil, but rigging one with plumbing fittings and finding a power source seems like more hassle than its worth.
 

rchalmers3

Half a mile from the Broad River
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,925
30
48
Location
Irmo, South Carolina
Hey guys, great info on filters for cleaning WMO. I believe my question is not a hi-jack......

Are you guys also filtering to eliminate water? I see that Fleetguard, Fram, Racor and just about everyone who offers diesel fuel filters has a "fuel water separator" filter available. They are not very expensive and I thought it would be best to design another layer of filtration protection in order to avoid the possibility of self-inflicted fuel contamination!

What would be really slick is if it were possible to mount a "fuel water separator" filter onto an inexpensive oil filter base, like those already mentioned in this excellent thread. For example, the Fram PH8 filter has a 3/4"x16 thread and the Surplus Center Zinga has a 1"x20 thread. While it may be possible to cross reference other oil filters using the Zinga or Fram filter numbers, I have no idea about how to select a "fuel water separator" filter to fit either example.

The problem is that the "fuel water separator" filter base specifications are hidden or non-existent on sales websites. You can read the cross references all you want and nobody has specs!

Does anyone have a suggestion or comment on this? Am I being paranoid about filtering water out of the WMO?

Thanks guys,

Rick
 

zick

New member
2
0
0
Location
Victor, Idaho
/water seperator

Had to add my 2 cents, on my '95 Dodge cummins a seperate Fleetguard filter was installed behind the front bumber and plumbed from the stock filter, making the new filter the primary and the stock filter a secondary. Was easy to change the new filter and as it had a plastic bowl with a drain on it, was easy to check for water, etc. The stock filters were hard to change. Was looking at the spare filter bowl tonight, no part number is on it. I think it will adapt to the replacement filter housing that I just received, giving a looks see. My 2004.5 Dodge uses a filter that is easy to change so I never thought about installing it. Fleetguard makes a line of oil filters that have spun glass instead of pleated paper, increasing the filtering level and the lower micron filter level.
zick
 
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