Spoon’s build thread

[Spoonerist]

Greetings all,

The deuce is mine! She’s a 1973 (based on the auction stuff). Paid for. Some paperwork and stuff before they (DNR) will release the title.

I had been driving past her for years and wondered if she could be mine. Then the right timing and conversations got the ball rolling.

I took off the tarp and popped the hood. Oil level is good. Needs a change, but it isn’t too bad. Brake pedal goes to the floor, but that was a known issue.

Battery box is rusted in place, but she has 2 batteries. One had 10v and the other 12v. She has battery shut off switches. I turned them on. Looks like the air buzzer was disconnected at some point. The solenoid clicks, but it doesn’t have enough juice to crank.

Next stop is getting my generator and giving her a charge. Last winter was unusually cold and the batteries may’ve taken a crap.

She currently has a 1200 gallon water tank and a massive trash pump. I’m giving those to the local fire brigade.

My SO is concerned about the accumulation of machines, but she’s had 7 months to get used to the idea of the deuce. We are vehicle namers. (Yes, I know, not supposed to admit this.) She (the deuce) has been named Luann.

This island needs a wrecker and I’m planning to fill that role. We don’t license here, but I plan to get her road legal enough to Farm Permit her. That’ll give me a 25 mile radius, enough for hauling barn finds to neighboring islands with ferry service.

I’ve begun making a list of restorable vehicles and developing contacts that are interested in restoring vehicles. Lots of barn finds here that people want to get rid of and I’d prefer to see them go for restoration rather than scrap.

Cheers,

Spoon

 

[ToddJK]

Subscribed!

 

[Spoonerist]

A while back I saw a listing for replacement battery trays, does anyone have a link for that?

I’ve got the generator running now. A few whacks with my rubber mallet got the rusted ass battery tray out.

I’ve found a spot to park her. There’s been a dispute between the county and extended family regarding a right of way. I’m parking her there, and quite effectively blocking the turn around… Yes, I know, a bit of an ahole move, but I wonder how long it’ll be before they give me crap.

I swear a lot, hope that doesn’t offend here.

Cheers,

Spoon

 

[Spoonerist]

I was right, one of the batteries was ready to fail. Also, I’m kicking myself, should’ve cleaned the terminals. I did a cursory look and one had that blue copper goo on it and otherwise looked ok.

Charged up to 13v each and cranked her over. Kept at it for a bit then… light show from the battery box and a pssshttt!

I hopped out and discovered a bunch of melted lead and a terminal with somewhat less material. I pulled the cables and determined that the linking cable needs a rebuild. Should I use 2/0 or bigger?

Time to order some parts.

I’m hopeful with the cranking, she has some life. I recognize that diesels that haven’t run for a while like to get cranked a bit.

One of the island machinists stopped by while I was fiddling. I told him what I paid for it and he said each tire/wheel was 4 times that much… Yep, I got a good deal and a load of work.

Cheers,

Spoon

 

[ToddJK]

There was a fella who had a plastic battery box in the classifieds, fall cleanup I believe, but he wasn't shipping anything.
I see you got the steel battery box too. Mine is all rusted out, I'm surprised the batteries aren't falling out! I put a sheet of steel at the bottom so it'll distribute the load and so far, so good plus the battery warmers.

I went with 00 gauge wire for the posi and kept the stock wire for the ground. Dog bone was 2 gauge plus a 10 gauge wire that I used to hook my battery equalizer too.

 

[Spoonerist]

I opted for 4/0. I’ve got a hydraulic crimper. First $70 spent. I’ll get another battery too… the days of $80 batteries are no more.

Just saw a neat boom truck someone pulled out of the woods.

 

[Guyfang]

A while back I saw a listing for replacement battery trays, does anyone have a link for that?

I’ve got the generator running now. A few whacks with my rubber mallet got the rusted ass battery tray out.

I’ve found a spot to park her. There’s been a dispute between the county and extended family regarding a right of way. I’m parking her there, and quite effectively blocking the turn around… Yes, I know, a bit of an ahole move, but I wonder how long it’ll be before they give me crap.

I swear a lot, hope that doesn’t offend here.

Cheers,

Spoon

Well, the Forum rules do inform you that swearing is not wanted. So this will just be a friendly reminder. Perhaps you might want to review the rules? Or just write like you would be talking to your Grandmother.

 

[Spoonerist]

Well, the Forum rules do inform you that swearing is not wanted. So this will just be a friendly reminder. Perhaps you might want to review the rules? Or just write like you would be talking to your Grandmother.

Can do.

 

[Spoonerist]

A brief update. Got the title thing, government intent to title. Looks official. Probably have to take it to the DMV and jump through that hoop soon.

I dug into the farm license stuff, it’s a 15 mile radius, still OK for Orcas, won’t work for Anacortes. I guess a trip permit would work if I had to.

I talked to another mechanic/hauler here to make sure to not step on his toes. He’s excited about my deuce project!

I’m enjoying “tactical repairs” on YT. Some good stuff there. After I get the battery stuff sorted out I’ll pop the immersion pump out and check the line. Tactical said to get 1/2” immersion rates tube, any recommendations here for what to get? Lots of options on Amazon.

We are so far in the sticks that mail only comes 3 days a week, so I’m still waiting for parts.

Cheers,

Spoon

 

[Spoonerist]

Hello all,

Rebuilt the battery jump cable (bridge?)

Some tools, still great weather here.

I stopped by the deuce to install the bridge cable and cracked the wing nut on the main positive lead and both terminals are toast. One is 4/0 which I had with me and the other is 2/0 which was at home. Plus I like the heat shrink covers. My fartner was using our generator, so it’ll be another day for the next part of this project.

My mechanical mentor says that melted battery terminal should still be good. Fingers crossed. I’m hoping to try it before I go to “Murica” next weekend. If I need a new battery it’s 30% cheaper on the mainland (Murica).

The 4/0 copper cable and terminals are super pretty.

I crawled under the deuce to have a cursory look at the air pack, it’s the short canister. She has 2 long air tanks, hopefully they hold air. I cracked a valve and water came out of one tank… ugh.



Looks like I’ll have to take the bed off to access the intank fuel pump.

The fire brigade it taking the tank off this Wednesday!

Other community members are excited about my getting this truck. I’m living up with my family legacy with military vehicles! Plus when they hear about the multifuel thing they have all said: I’ve got wmo you can have.

I’m hesitant to start collecting that until I have a safe “clean”(er) way to process it.

That’s it for now.

Cheers,

Spoon

 

[silverstate55]

Congrats! Looks like a nice truck!

If you’re going to re-use WMO, I recommend a centrifuge & polishing/dewatering anything you plan on putting in your fuel tank. There are some great threads in the Alternative Fuels subforum.

For the high-humidity & salt air environment you live in, I recommend for heat shrink that you use the type with Adhesive inside…it is quite common to find, NAPA & most heavy truck repair places stock it. You can find lots of it on amazon and other online vendors. The adhesive is heat-activated and effectively glues the heat shrink to your cables and connectors, doing a better job of keeping corrosion out of your electrical connections. It doesn’t cost very much more than standard heat shrink but in the long run you’ll appreciate its benefits.

To remove it, it can be done but just requires a little more effort.

Keep up the great work, following with enthusiasm!

 

[Spoonerist]

Hello all,

The heat shrink connectors have the adhesive in them. It’s heart warming to see it goob out as the wrap shrinks.

Got the terminals wrapped up and made the battery box a little more stable. Cleaned the battery terminals and wires it up.

She cranks! And coughed. Sooooo close! I’ve got the batteries charging again. There’s a safety meeting happening where the truck is and I needed to be gone. A community member asked if I’m resuscitating the big truck? Yes I am!




I’m super excited about this truck! When I move towards wmo I will be using a centrifuge and accoutrements.

Cheers,

Spoon

 

[Spoonerist]

Ok, cranked some more with starting fluid. Definitely wants to start, but I have a hunch the fuel system needs some attention. Specifically, to be primed. Also, likely need the hose on the immersion pump.

I’ve been planning to obtain an air compressor. Does anyone have a suggestion for a portable electric compressor?

Cheers,

Spoon

 

[Spoonerist]

Hello all,

A medical emergency has taken me away from my beloved project. A little urgent back surgery and I’ll be right as rain and tinkering on this awesome truck.

Cheers,

Spoon

 

[Spoonerist]

Hello all,

I had a chat with the guy that was last working on the deuce. He said he was ready to fix the air system and brakes, but politics and shenanigans got in the way.

He also mentioned that the previous mechanic use veg oil instead of dot 5, if that’s the case, what would you do other than flush the system?

Looks like some of her wheel cylinders are weeping. Are the rebuild kits worthwhile? I’ve rebuilt calipers that were quite rusty and had success. Or, would you recommend replacing the wheel cylinders?

I’m still laid up with my back, but I keep coming here to read and dream. This is an addiction…

Cheers,

Spoon

 

[Mullaney]

Hello all,

I had a chat with the guy that was last working on the deuce. He said he was ready to fix the air system and brakes, but politics and shenanigans got in the way.

He also mentioned that the previous mechanic use veg oil instead of dot 5, if that’s the case, what would you do other than flush the system?

Looks like some of her wheel cylinders are weeping. Are the rebuild kits worthwhile? I’ve rebuilt calipers that were quite rusty and had success. Or, would you recommend replacing the wheel cylinders?

I’m still laid up with my back, but I keep coming here to read and dream. This is an addiction…

Cheers,

Spoon

.
Wow @Spoonerist ...

I dunno about using vegetable oil as brake fluid. Quick research on the Web (and we all know that the Web Never Lies) says that it could work. Also found people who have used water as brake fluid. I guess any fluid would work if you were in a tight spot. Then again too, if I was in a tight spot - I might not even need brakes!

Reading a little more: It seems that if you have a pressure type bleeder to attach to the Master Cylinder you should be able to flush out the oil. Might even take a couple of times to flush the Veg Oil out. It might be easier to open all the bleeder screws and blow out the brake system with just air when you start the bleed process. I would find yourself some rubber tubing to go over the bleeder and capture whatever comes out of the brake system. If you find rust, that might require special attention.

Hope you are on the mend and can get back to having green truck adventures!

 

[cattlerepairman]

Define "works".

Brake fluid should be able to do a few things. Be non-compressible (check; it's a liquid), not corrode everything it comes into contact with, including all the seals and rubber parts (check; ideally it also will inhibit corrosion), not attract and mix with water (DOT 5 does a good job of that) , should not freeze easily, and, perhaps most importantly, have a HIGH BOIL POINT. The brakes generate a lot of heat and that is transferred to the hydraulic parts at the wheel (wheel cylinders and brake line). When the brake fluid reaches the boiling point, gas bubbles form and the brake fluid is now compressible. It will no longer transfer pressure to the brake cylinder when the brake pedal is depressed.

That is why it is important to change brake fluid in the car once in a while; if you live in a mountainous area perhaps every 2-3 years. The more moisture the brake fluid contains, the lower the boiling point gets.

So, pretty much ANY liquid will "work" as brake fluid; at least once or briefly. If all the vehicle does is tote around at low speeds and low weight with the brakes never heating up very much, prime racing brake fluid is probably not required

 

[SCM35A2]

Subscribed!

 

[Spoonerist]

Greetings all,

How practical is it to add a PTO to the spicer transmission? Would a 12v or 24v winch make more sense?

Back surgery is scheduled. I will have to stay on the mainland for 6 weeks after surgery. The best I can do for my build is to drool on all the builds here.

Cheers,

Spoon

 

[Mullaney]

Greetings all,

How practical is it to add a PTO to the spicer transmission? Would a 12v or 24v winch make more sense?

Back surgery is scheduled. I will have to stay on the mainland for 6 weeks after surgery. The best I can do for my build is to drool on all the builds here.

Cheers,

Spoon

.
Well, I get to be first to comment about installing a winch... So here goes in (+) Plus and (-) Minus form:

Battery Powered Winch
+ Electric with Remote makes it easy for one guy to do the job.
+ Easier to Install than mechanical
+ Works until the batteries die even if the motor won't run

- If the alternator isn't alternating, you get one (fairly) short pull and it is over
- Duty Cycle. The most important thing to look at when you buy a battery powered winch

PTO Powered Winch
+ Duty Cycle isn't an issue. Pull "until the cows come home" or until you get tired
+ Strength, Much heavier and generally has a larger spool for cable
+ Durability, Change the oil

- Find the right part (PTO) and they are definitely available
- Find the proper Driveshaft
- Drain the Transmission, Install the PTO correctly and use proper shims

I'm sure more folks will chime in. Me personally, a mechanical or hydraulic powered winch is "the thing" if you really need a winch. You also need to decide if you need a winch or want a winch. Either mechanical winch with a PTO attached to the transmission will be more work to install but you won't do it but one time. A battery powered winch will work. Pull, Rest (overheating kills) then Pull again and Rest again. Both will work...