Spun a bearing today...

[llong66]

Was driving along just fine, took off from a light and WAM......knock knock knock, was fairly close to home and was able to limp it back, pretty much just above idle. I had been planning on rebuilding a new motor but not this soon! Went today and picked out a 6.5 turbo, complete, runner. 219,000 miles. It looks real good, I think it had been well cared for, the turbo looks great, spins really nice, no play at all in any direction, no signs of oil leaking or anything. I am going to have to study the manual turbo mater, looking at the way it is set up, actually seeing it, Im not quite sure how to go about it. Ill tale pics!
I am going to build it pretty much stock. I am going to girdle it, MAYBE roller rockers, havent decided if they are worth it, fluid damper, was thinking about a gear drive but I think I will just stick with a good quality dbl roller chain. I will be going all forged internals, new crank, rods, pistons, stock cam, I cant see $500 for 25 or so HP that you get out of an after market cam. ARP head studs, I think thats about it. The heads I have now only have about 5k miles on them so I will just switch them. Maybe new pre-cups? Being as its a turbo motor I think I should be able to just use use stock head gaskets. Ill decide about an IP rebuild once I get it off and get a good look at it. The motor in it now is a 6.5 so the heads will be no problem and it has all new injectors, the shorter ones and new glow plugs.
If anyone sees anything I am missing, please let me know, I wont know what all machine work the block needs till I get it apart.
This may be kind of a long project, just depends on funds but I will keep it updated with pics as much as I can. I know actually seeing how the exhaust exits on the pas side how its kinda a bear to fit, thats really gona be a tight turn going down.
One question I did have...I had planned on putting dual tanks in, with the exhaust running like its going to have to, will that make a pass side tank a bad idea? To close o the exhaust?
Thanks much for any ideas or pointing out things I am missing!!

Greg

 

[Recovry4x4]

Unless it's out of a 93 truck, you will need to swap injection pumps. 94 and up use the DS 4 electronic injection pump.

 

[llong66]

Recovry4x4, I forgot to mention it but I had planned on that, thats what I meant when I said I was unsure of a rebuild until I got mine off and took a look at it. I also noticed that on the 96 motor I am getting, it does not have a vacuum pump, the spot is blocked off. Another question I did have, I have the chance to get the stock air cleaner box off a 96 also, I believe since I am going to have to move the rear battery anyway it should fit, I think I saw someone do that, any comment on that?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Vac pumps on the 6.5 are belt driven. The fuel filter occupies some of the real estate neede for a can driven vac pump.

 

[llong66]

But I will be able to switch over all my current stuff, correct? I have a 6.5 now, it was repowered by the PO, he just did a hack job and thats part of why it has only lasted a few years

 

[llong66]

Got my new motor toady, going to pull the oil pan tomorrow to take a good look at the bottom end before I go any farther. Couple of interesting things I did notice, the oil feed for the turbo comes from the front of the engine, I cant see exactly where the line connects, some of the old brackets are in the way, jut thought this was interesting after reading some ppl looking for a place to feed from and have been using spots on the rear of the engine. The other interesting thing, the oil return is in the typical fuel pump block off location but it uses a large rubber hose and it is run outside the heat shield, between it and the exhaust manifold, just kinda interesting. The turbo is a Borg Warner unit and has the vacuum housing for the waste gate mounted more on top of the turbo rather than to the side like most I have seen, still no problem to make a manual "turbo master" just different. One question, the motor is a 96, the hole where our vacuum pumps are located is blocked off, how do these motors drive the oil pump? Im sure Ill see once I get it torn down, but just curious.

 

[llong66]

Well, now that I have my new motor more or less buttoned up, I got to taking the old one apart to see ust what it was that went. It WASN'T a spun bearing as you can see in the pic I was REALLY surprised when I found this!!

 

[o1951]

Was the rod still on the crankshaft?
How does the crank journal look?
Thinking you may be fortunate and have an easy rebuild there.

 

[llong66]

o1951, yes the rod as still on the crank and believe it or not the journal looks ok. I have already rebuilt 6.5l turbo I bought at a local salvage yard. The block that was in the truck, the one that piston came from is a "605" block has the smaller outer mains. The problem is that when I got it the PO had stripped out the starter bolt holes and I had nothing but problems. I think I am going to take it to my local machine shop ask them if they think they can fix that issue and of so, have the block cleaned and magnafluxed. If its all good, the I will decide if I want to keep it as a gpod spare or sell it. It will have to be bored out as it had been over heated by the PO and the number 7 cyl. is scored, had pretty low compression and smoked quite a bit.

 

[o1951]

Exactly what I was thinking. If feasible, fix it and sell it to recoup some of the $$$$$ for 6.5L. Too bad about #7 - I was thinking just rod and gaskets.