Stalled and will not start again, Please Help!!

[ClockworkSkin]

I've been having electrical problems with my 1009

This thread chronicles those problems.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/38116-electrical-question-starter-voltmeter.html

Today, I refueled and left the house. I got about 5 miles away and it stalled. I couldn't get it to restart. I bled the fuel filter, and I opened the top and bottom bleeder valves (in case there was water in the filter), and then closed the bottom and cranked the engine with the top open. I got a nice spray of fuel. Next I cracked one of the fuel lines on each side of the engine and I'm getting fuel there. I also tried with the air filter assembly off of the engine.

I do not know this engine well enough to know if there is some electronic problem but it seems that way. Can anyone help. I'm stuck on the side of the road and I really want to get this resovled.

Thanks in advance.

 

[mistaken1]

Voltage to the wire on the IP?

 

[ClockworkSkin]

I don't have my multimeter. I left it in the parking lot of the last place the truck broke down. I'm on my way back to test the pink lead and to listen for the clicking sound. I'm also going to check all of the glowplugs for a mist. I'll let you know how I make out after that.

 

[Wolf.Dose]

This problem has nothing to do with the glow plugs. It is the unfriedly big contanct on top of the IP. If this has no sure contact, the engine will not run. I replaced this shoe by a crimped o-contact which i fixed to the pump by nut and bolt. Means I removed the nut that holds the tounge of the contact in question and reinstalled the nut after I put over the bolt the o-contact crimped to the wire. Since than no more trubble!
Wolf

 

[ClockworkSkin]

If contact was the problem, would I have heard clicking when I tested the pink wire? I did in fact hear clicking, so I ruled that out, but if you think that might have something to do with it, I'll try crimping it. It was a little on the loose side.

 

[gavinheck]

This problem has nothing to do with the glow plugs. It is the unfriedly big contanct on top of the IP. If this has no sure contact, the engine will not run. I replaced this shoe by a crimped o-contact which i fixed to the pump by nut and bolt. Means I removed the nut that holds the tounge of the contact in question and reinstalled the nut after I put over the bolt the o-contact crimped to the wire. Since than no more trubble!
Wolf

Hey

I just bought my 1009 and what is an "IP"?
Thanks

Newbie

JG Heck

 

[kipman]

Injection Pump, you will soon need this site, not to be negative, just older trucks with some bad habits.

 

[gavinheck]

Injection Pump, you will soon need this site, not to be negative, just older trucks with some bad habits.

Thanks!

Ah no problem

My other POS is a 2002 vw new beetle TDI
The truck so far has been more reliable

I've owned the VW for 3 years and have an electrical problem about every 3 months or so, so I've already got my multimeter

best

jg heck

 

[Wolf.Dose]

The VW TDI is a different story. There the injection pump (IP) is a VP44, an exelent piece of engineering. However, the electric contacts around are sometimes poor. That you have a regular three month problem is very uncommon. You better should change you VW shop to a qualified one.
If you look at the injectors of your VW, you will see that the outer design is the same as your injectors of the 6.2 l Diesel. BUT DO NOT INTERCHANGE THEM. The 6.2 l Diesel injectors have an opening pressure of 125 bar, those of the VW over 1700 bar.
Hope you found out most of the problems with your Chevy.
Wolf

 

[gavinheck]

Yep, would never exchange part tween a gmc and tdi, just saying I owned 2 diesels. One which apparently threw the pass. side alternator belt last night and decided to play dead. Off to try and fix it.

 

[ClockworkSkin]

I too have a TDI ... which also doesn't run. Broken timing belt (lots of problems when that happens).

Gavin, you might want to look on Fred's TDI Page. TDIClub.com. VW TDI Enthusiast Community

Like this forum, there is a metric buttload of good information. Also, there is a list of reputable shops that specialize in diesel VWs.

 

[gavinheck]

Tx
Ah mine is running, after the $1000 timing belt, $800 rotor/brake/bearings/electric gremlins
just about every 3 months some other manufacturing defect pops up and costs me another thousand bucks or so.

 

[ClockworkSkin]

I got it running!! THe 1009 that is.

I think it was bad fuel that I put in the other day becuase all that I really did was bleed the lines, and keep turning it over until it started.

Anyways, thanks for the help everyone.