Stalls Intermittently

[ssdvc]

I use HOWES and pour about 6oz of Marine 2 stoke oil in there every third fill-up or so.

 

[ezgn]

I use HOWES and pour about 6oz of Marine 2 stoke oil in there every third fill-up or so.

Stanadyne fuel additive is the only fuel additive recommended by Stanadyne to use for the injection pump on your vehicle. The 2 cycle oil does not meet Federal clean air standards, and in my opinion does not work as well as the correct additive. If you look on the pavement after idling for a period of time you will notice droplerts of oil on the ground from the 2 cycle oil. I would not trust running the 2 cycle oil through my system on a regular basis. Stanadyne gets my vote. You also run the risk of fouling your injectors over time. It does more harm than good in my opinion.

 

[Keith_J]

2 stroke oil will burn in the engine at higher loads. Cold engine idle has very poor combustion, even with straight diesel.

 

[cucvrus]

Strange as it may sound after all these years I never added anything to my CUCV fuel tank except diesel, heating oil and on occasion contaminated fuel from over the road trucks that drivers added DEF to the fuel. I would get it for free in a 330 gallon tote and let it sit and pump the fuel off the top thru a filter. I had a lot of free miles in my M1028 and M1009 using up someone else's mistakes. I seldom had any issues injection pump related until eventually the pump wore out and I replaced it. Injection pumps are always danced around and replacement avoided and it is like a $400. item. I see people adding lift kits and big tires to poorly running vehicles and that is 3 times the cost of the injection pump. Injection pumps wear out and rotary injection pumps seem to wear out faster. That has been my experience. If the pump is giving you issues. Change the pump. Injection pumps when changed will make a huge difference in the drivability of the vehicle. On many diesel powered engines.

 

[ssdvc]

OK, an update to this.

First, I dosed the tank (with about 15 gal in it) with a triple dose of Standyne. After about a 100 miles I filled her all the way and then dosed her with a triple dose of HOWES Meaner Cleaner. She is still stalling, again, infrequently.

I am now having a very weird issue with the Fast Idle, which started a little after the stalling issue started, which was about 2-3 weeks ago. Upon start up (first turn of the key, immediate start every time), she goes into a "normal" fast idle. After a minute or two she will rev significantly, by at least a 1000 rpm, for about 10-15 seconds or so. She then shuts down due to the throttle/fast idle dropping out. She will start right back up, not go into Fast Idle again (because she has warmed up) and will idle normally.

I am thinking that my Fast Idle circuit may be failing and causing this condition (I have already checked electrical connections)
Question(s):
One - my internet skills aren't great. If available, does anyone have any links to the fast idle parts (like the solenoid that controls it)?
Two - I know there are parts in the "bowl" forward of the IP that can be easily replaced (there was a thread on that, but I can't find it). Does anyone have links to those part and perhaps the thread?

In two weeks I'll be going across the pond for a little bit, so I want to try and try a few things before I leave, if possible, before planning for an entire IP replacement in Dec, if needed.

 

[Keith_J]

Fast idle solenoid is external of the IP, front and to drivers side. Since cold start has fast idle, the only conclusion would be the thermal switch is cutting out too fast or warm idle speed is too low.

 

[ssdvc]

Thanks Kieth, is it repairable?

 

[ezgn]

Thanks Kieth, is it repairable?

Did you see the post about 12 posts down, " Sounds like a misfire please help"? He is having similar issues as you are. There is good information that could help you. The fast idle solenoid plunger can be cleaned up if it is sticking or a replacement is easy to change out for about 100.00 dollars.

 

[Keith_J]

Thanks Kieth, is it repairable?

If the cold idle solenoid is turning off too fast, the thermal switch is easily swapped. If the solenoid isn't working with 12 bolts to the green wire, it is also swappable. If the solenoid is functioning but cold idle is too slow, it can be adjusted.

IIRC, the thermal switch should shut off at a coolant temperature in the head of 140 °F. In my CUCV, that takes about 45 seconds in 90°F air temperature.

 

[Barrman]

95° is what the sensor on the passenger rear head for the green wire goes off of.

The glow plug sensor inside the valley on the drivers head is somewhere around 160° to 170° for that system.

There are actually 2 green wires at the IP. The wire to the fast idle solenoid on the drivers external side of the IP with when you push the throttle will hold the throttle open just a bit for a faster idle. The plunger for the fast idle solenoid has a hex head and a slot for a screw driver. It can be adjusted to set the fast idle speed which is listed on the sticker of the air filter housing.

Are you pushing the throttle down about half way and releasing after you turn on the key and are waiting for the glow plug light to go out? Read the sticker on the drivers side sun visor and it says to do that. The fast idle solenoid is not powerful enough to open the throttle by itself. You do that by pushing down a bit and then it holds it open until 95° coolant temperature is reached and it turns off.

The other green wire goes to a plug on the top of the IP which is the cold advance solenoid and it is inside the IP. Both are supposed to be activated by the green wire getting power from the sensor on the outside of the passenger head at the rear.

 

[ssdvc]

Hi Barrman, appreciate the insight. This is a brand new issue, never experienced it before. Yes, I always follow the correct starting procedure. She always has started (except when I got a load of contaminated fuel) on the first turn of the key and fast idle always operated as designed. No smoke on start up and the idle kicks down as designed. This morning she fired normally and the fast idle worked properly (weird, but welcome). Also, during my ride this morning (after a thorough lubing of all pivot points and shafts mounted to the IP) I noticed that I can be traveling at normal road speeds and if I accelerate and then lift off the throttle, she will not stall. However, if under load, at slow speeds, or leaving from a stop, if I try to power up, but then lift off the throttle, she will stumble and then stall, but only occasionally. And she will fire right back up, first turn of the key.

GP's, Card (Antenna Climber), Fuel Filter, Tank flush, sender and sock, etc, etc. And, as far as I can tell, the IP was replaced back in 2014/2015.

 

[ezgn]

Hi Barrman, appreciate the insight. This is a brand new issue, never experienced it before. Yes, I always follow the correct starting procedure. She always has started (except when I got a load of contaminated fuel) on the first turn of the key and fast idle always operated as designed. No smoke on start up and the idle kicks down as designed. This morning she fired normally and the fast idle worked properly (weird, but welcome). Also, during my ride this morning (after a thorough lubing of all pivot points and shafts mounted to the IP) I noticed that I can be traveling at normal road speeds and if I accelerate and then lift off the throttle, she will not stall. However, if under load, at slow speeds, or leaving from a stop, if I try to power up, but then lift off the throttle, she will stumble and then stall, but only occasionally. And she will fire right back up, first turn of the key.

GP's, Card (Antenna Climber), Fuel Filter, Tank flush, sender and sock, etc, etc. And, as far as I can tell, the IP was replaced back in 2014/2015.

You might have a bad connector where you hook into the fast idle solenoid. Check the wiring over and I would cut off the spade connector and replace it with a new one. You might try some Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle as Keith_J has explained and let it soak overnight inside your IP

 

[ssdvc]

You might have a bad connector where you hook into the fast idle solenoid. Check the wiring over and I would cut off the spade connector and replace it with a new one. You might try some Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle as Keith_J has explained and let it soak overnight inside your IP

Dosed it with HOWES Meaner Cleaner and some Standyne. If that doesn't clean everything up, I'll reorder the DMIAB. I actually did check the fast idle connection (actually all IP connections) this afternoon and everything was clean, cleaned again and nice and tight.

 

[ssdvc]

OK, last update on this. I dosed her good with HOWES Meaner Cleaner and Standyne a few days ago. She was still stumbling and stalling upon lifting off the throttle. I needed to pick up a large package, so I took the truck for a three hour drive (1.5 each way). At the start, when I fired her up and pulled out of the garage, she stumbled and wanted to stall. Same at a few stops signs, but she didn't stall. I then got on the highway and after an hour of driving, I got off the highway and noticed that she seemed to be running better and not stumbling any more. On the way to my destination, I tried everything to get her to stumble or stall, but nothing (which was great). Got what I needed and started the drive back. An hour and a half later I am happy to report that everything is working as it should and the engine is purring like a kitten. Well, OK, not so much like a kitten, but she running hot, straight and normal !!

Thanks to everyone for their input !!

Oh, when I get back in Nov from "traveling", I will be diving into that metering valve and seeing if I can replace it and clean put that bowl too.

 

[Barrman]

One of the 1965 M35 manuals listed out about 30 symptoms or behaviors and said to load the truck to max gross weight and drive for 100 miles at max speed. Then see if the problem still existed.

That is probably the best advice for driving a diesel vehicle I have ever read. Glad yours is better.

 

[ezgn]

OK, last update on this. I dosed her good with HOWES Meaner Cleaner and Standyne a few days ago. She was still stumbling and stalling upon lifting off the throttle. I needed to pick up a large package, so I took the truck for a three hour drive (1.5 each way). At the start, when I fired her up and pulled out of the garage, she stumbled and wanted to stall. Same at a few stops signs, but she didn't stall. I then got on the highway and after an hour of driving, I got off the highway and noticed that she seemed to be running better and not stumbling any more. On the way to my destination, I tried everything to get her to stumble or stall, but nothing (which was great). Got what I needed and started the drive back. An hour and a half later I am happy to report that everything is working as it should and the engine is purring like a kitten. Well, OK, not so much like a kitten, but she running hot, straight and normal !!

Thanks to everyone for their input !!

Oh, when I get back in Nov from "traveling", I will be diving into that metering valve and seeing if I can replace it and clean put that bowl too.
I'm thinking you could have had some injector problems.

 

[ezgn]

OK, last update on this. I dosed her good with HOWES Meaner Cleaner and Standyne a few days ago. She was still stumbling and stalling upon lifting off the throttle. I needed to pick up a large package, so I took the truck for a three hour drive (1.5 each way). At the start, when I fired her up and pulled out of the garage, she stumbled and wanted to stall. Same at a few stops signs, but she didn't stall. I then got on the highway and after an hour of driving, I got off the highway and noticed that she seemed to be running better and not stumbling any more. On the way to my destination, I tried everything to get her to stumble or stall, but nothing (which was great). Got what I needed and started the drive back. An hour and a half later I am happy to report that everything is working as it should and the engine is purring like a kitten. Well, OK, not so much like a kitten, but she running hot, straight and normal !!

Thanks to everyone for their input !!

Oh, when I get back in Nov from "traveling", I will be diving into that metering valve and seeing if I can replace it and clean put that bowl too.

I'm thinking you could have had injector problems. You might have cleaned them out with the long drive and the right products cleaning things up.

 

[Keith_J]

Autobahn tune up. No need to tear into it since it is cleaning itself.
The "dirt" is a coating only microns thick.

 

[ssdvc]

Question:

If I was so inclined, where can I purchase a fast idle solenoid and a metering valve? I am thinking of taking the cover off the top on that fuel well and trying to do a light rebuild while I have some idle time on my hands.

 

[ezgn]

Question:

If I was so inclined, where can I purchase a fast idle solenoid and a metering valve? I am thinking of taking the cover off the top on that fuel well and trying to do a light rebuild while I have some idle time on my hands.

You can take a look at this one a see what you think.https://www.ebay.com/itm/1448978427...MI4Oa7tJjQ_AIV3g6tBh13mQ8iEAQYAyABEgKdUfD_BwE