Started fabricating a hitch for the truck

[whyme]

Stuck home tonight and was kinda bored so I went outside to play. All of the steel used was scraps I acquired from a few local shops. I found a 1 5/8 receiver from an old truck of ours in the garage. Total cost $0.00!!

It's not done yet because I ran out of mig wire but I made good progress. I plan on adding some triangulation in various places, it's prob more than solid enough as is (when I finish the missing welds) but better safe than sorry. Also need loops for the safety chains.

 

[gimpyrobb]

What mig ya using? Is it a 110 welder?

 

[whyme]

Yep, nothing fancy. 3/8 is the maximum thickness it's rated for according to the charts it has on it so 1/4 is within it's abilities. It is a little slow going but it gets the job done and it's burning in nicely.

Oh, a Lincoln Electric, think 3200 somthin or another ( can't remember off the top of my head) flux core or gas but for the heavy side of things you I've to run the self shielding flux core.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Not sure I would trust a 110 welder for a hitch. Please be careful.

 

[whyme]

I've heard both ways on that, but yeah I agree. Thats partially why I plan to reinforce it. And have a professional welder friend take a look at it.

I wont be pulling anything crazy with it, just an 18' aluminum fishing boat around town. But as always safety first. I may have safety chain from the loops on the truck down to the hitch and then to the trailer as added precaution

 

[PropDr]

I think your going to regret putting a 1 5/8" instead of a 2" receiver tube on it. I don't think I have ever seen a drop ball mount for 1 5/8.

 

[whyme]

The ball mount I Had laying around has about 5 inches of drop. I had considered a 2" but given the materials at hand I went with what I had. tractor supply had a 2" weld on prefab tube for $22 and then I still would need to by the new ball mount with drop.

As it is the top of the tube will sit 6" below the frame and with the additional 5" from the mount I'm getting nearly a foot. I dont think I'll need much more than that.

 

[Westech]

you do know if your home made hitch fails you are 100% at fault of any thing that happens right? (if you are not a certificated welder with papers) Its just like people making there own tow bars. A Hitch off a GMC/Chevrolet truck bolts right up. Same frame width. I dont remember what years its 88-98 or 87-81 you will have to measure but that it the hardest part. Drill a couple holes and your done. I don't make things that DOT can get funny with.
And GImp is correct a 110 welder even 140 amp will NEVER get enough penetration for a good weld. Yes it will hold together but you bounce down the road and I bet she comes apart.

 

[deathrowdave]

The one I used was from an F350, but can not be sure of year . Drilled 3 holes per side and bolted on !!!! The one I found was a class % for $35.00. They are out there for the picking !!

 

[Ridgerunner]

In my opinion, 110-volt welders are best for sheet metal body work or hobby welding, not for a hitch for a 13,000# truck. Not saying it cant be done.

That being said, in picture #3, your weld does look like it has good penetration between the two pieces. (small picture though)

You could weld the entire hitch up with your 110, then have your weldor friend hit it with a hot weld, on top/over of yours in the critical areas. Just to be on the safe side. Just for the piece of mind, it sure wouldn't hurt any.


Also, just because your only going to pull an 18" aluminum boat behind the Deuce, doesn't meen the next guy that owns the truck, will know any better, when he hooks his equipment trailer to it when it's loaded down with a pile of logs or a piece of machinery.

 

[whyme]

I'm certainly not going to ignore the warnings and thank everyone for their concern. I have access to enough recourses that it would be irresponsible of me not to take the extra precaution, although I'm
Confident in the welds so far, I'll smooth the runs down with. Grinding wheel to check for integrity and then have them gone over again.

Before this ever sees the road I plan on Putting load on it around the yard and inspecting it after. Given the loads I'm pulling this is significantly heavier than some of the other systems I have seen fabricated here. Again it's not done yet.

 

[hdmax]

I do not believe that the hitch will hold up well at all. The receiver should run through not under or over the cross tubing. It it twist under a load.
This is the way it needs to be! (My opinion!)
Not the best picture, but the receiver tube goes through not one but two cross tubes. (One at the rear of the hitch, and another about 18" forward of the rear one. Welded on both sides of both tubes.)

You say you're going with a 12" drop, the torque on the receiver tube will be tremendous even with a small boat.

 

[ApopkaFL]

I would want something I could trust to pulling my 26ft behind the deuce.

 

[whyme]

The design it self I fully stand behind, with respect to your concern, it isn't finished as I stated before and it's based on similar receivers I have had on past vehicles. The ball mount is only 5" drop, the hitch frame supports the additional required drop. This is not intended as a class 4/5 hitch, for my purposes a class 2 is sufficient but I am building it as class 3.

If I need to haul an equipment trailer I'll use the pintle hitch. This is for hauling toys

 

[broman78]

nice boots, have a welder hit with a 7018 rod. but if you are concerned about penetration go over with 6011 then 7018.