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Started the Lube and Servicing Unit today

aboonski

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West Melbourne Florida
Air Filter Elements are available at Saturn Surplus for only $5.50 which is cheap compared to what I paid for the whole assembly on Ebay. Thanks for the lead about the alcohol injector by the way - I'll fill mine before I use it on my deuce. All the rain we have had here in Florida this month makes the humidity something to deal with!
 

Speddmon

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Saturn also has the complete filter assemblies for something like $14. I know it's less than $20. Unless they were sold out.
 

Speddmon

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I was doing some checking on my air compressor in my trailer today. I posted a thread about adjusting the governor on the 4a032 engine so I can get this thing running like it's supposed to be. I know the engine is rated and governed to run at 3600 RPM, but that seemed awfully fast to me. I wanted to find some information about the compressor and then use the pulley diameters to determine a safe engine speed to run. Turns out I should be fine with what I've got.

What I did was called Worthington today, they are the manufacturer of my compressor. Although the tag does not have a model number listed, the nice gentleman at Worthington was able to pull up the information using the information I did have. My compressor serial number is "C V 3190", the ID tag listed the size as "4 3/8 x 2 1/2 x 1 5/8". I gave this information to John and he looked it up, told me it was a "CV style" compressor (kind of evident from the ID tag now that I know what style it is). The size refers to the cylinder sizes, large cylinder bore is 4 3/8", small bore is 2 1/2" with a stroke of 1 5/8". He told me the important information I was looking for though. The compressor is rated to run between 700 and 1750 RPM's. At 1750 RPM's with a pressure setting of 175 PSI the compressor will deliver 16.3 CFM.

Nothing exciting, but If some of you guy's with the ENG-3 lube trailer have a worthington compressor like mine, now you know more about it. Also, John told me that Worthington has a fantastic selection of repair parts for these old compresors, even he said, that's surprising for a compressor that is over 40 years old.
 

jasonjc

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Location
Gravette Ar.
O'Reily auto parts can get the plugs too. You just need to use the auto lite #,the warehouse stocks them. My store offered to stock them for me, but I did not see the need.

As for the air filter GL just sold a ton of them at OKC for the 4A032 and 4A084. So some one has a huge stock pile of the.
 
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aboonski

Member
722
8
18
Location
West Melbourne Florida
Finally got mine to run continuously by putting new plugs in and toying with the carburetor adjustments. I did a couple of short videos of the success but still need to obtain a replacement oil filter - probably available at NAPA hut need the part number for it. The oil that was in this thing was really black after I drained it - very watery too. Once the new oil flows though this I am sure it will run a lot better. Here's a link to the first video - part 2 will probably coe up after the first one is finished:

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf9t8D2vYOs&feature=channel_page[/media]
 

Speddmon

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Great video. As far as the oil filter goes, you should be able to use any spin-on filter you want to as long as the engine has the standard 3/4" fine thread stud. Just get one with the same seal o-ring diameter. 5 to 10 micron should be plenty for filtration.

After I get mine running a little closer to spec, I'll post up another video.
 

aboonski

Member
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Location
West Melbourne Florida
Thanks Speddmon. I haven't even tried to remove the filter yet but will do so tomorrow - got rained out today. I think the unit I have uses a cartridge filter of some sort - looks similar to the filter housing on my MEP003a generator. Once I remove the thing I will know for sure. I should have had this thing fully functional by now! I am taking my time and trying to do things correctly. Really fun working on this thing!
 

Speddmon

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Yeah, I know what you mean. I loved hearing mine roar to life when I first tried it. I would've thought yours had the spin-on filter, mine must have been converted over sometime then, as I've got a spin-on filter. Does your engine have a clutch like the manual says it should? My compressor belts are directly connected to the crank on mine via the belt pulley. It would be nice to have a clutch, It would be nice to be able to start the engine up and let it warm up a minute before it starts getting a load applied.
 

aboonski

Member
722
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Location
West Melbourne Florida
Mine is a firect drive also. You have a great idea though - I might loosten the belts next time I run the motor up because I really think it needs to run for a while after sitting for God knows how long. I also have to hook up an air line that someone disconnected which goes up by the motor and probably has something to do with the governor. While running it yesterday, my tank pressure gauge was reading 200 pounds and I need to locate the adjustment for bleeding off excessive air pressure. It is nice to know that the compressor is working perfectly though.
 

Speddmon

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the air governor on mine it located on the tank to the rear of the trailer, connected to the same block the pressure gauge is in; that's what unloads the compressor and is supposed to cause the engine to slow to idle as well. If your unit ran up to 200 PSI, you'll probably need to disassemble it and clean it up good like I did, then readjust it.. It's easy to do and it's in the manuals as well. The engine governor is controlled, on mine at least, by a small air cylinder connected to the governor control rod between the carb and the governor. That's probably where that air line goes. Here are some pictures to help hopefully. Good luck.

The first 3 pictures are of the cylinder that controls the throttle on mine...yours may be totally different.

The next ones are from the TM on the system relief valve.
 

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jasonjc

Well-known member
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Location
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There is a adapter to make these spin on type filters I think Satern has them. Mine has it to and has a plain old PH-?? filter on it.
 

aboonski

Member
722
8
18
Location
West Melbourne Florida
Just ordered two new oil filters, cartridge type, from Saturn Surplus for $4.50 each today. Really hard to get the filter out because of all the stuff that is in the way. Love to have the spin on filter but my trailer had the old style and I guess I'll just have to live with it! I love how the filter manufacturer puts all the info on the filter - sure helped me to find the exact part that I needed.

The air hose that is disconnected goes to the air governor for sure. I may have bad threads on the male fitting but will deal with that by replacing the line with air brake hose that I just bought from an Ebay auction - 1000 feet of the stuff so I have to find uses for the stuff.
 

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Speddmon

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Yeah, Saturn does have the spin on adapters listed for something like $43 and change. I know you can buy quite a few cartridge filters for that price though.

Once you get that governor straightened out, let me know how it works for you. I'm going to get mine adjusted here this week and then replace the cylinder on mine and see if I can't get it to go into a slower idle. I may have to do some jerry rigging to change the cylinder to a new style, but I think it will be worth it to have it act the way it should.
 

cornrichard

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Location
Galesburg, IL
I have been working on my trailer for about a month now. It started right up but then gave me float problems. I still have not found a solution to that problem that I like. Right now I am running the carb dry to shut off the engine. The rest of the project has gone well so far. Here are some pictures of the pumps and the tanks. I epoxy coated the inside of the lube tanks to keep the fluids clean. Has anyone ever thought to put a filter on after the pumps? I added a step and handrail to the front of the trailer. This makes it real easy to climb into the back of the deuce! Anyway the pictures tell the story so here they are.
 

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Speddmon

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That's a real nice looking trailer.

Were the tanks rusted inside? I'm curious because mine look to be already coated with either paint or some kind of epoxy. I like the extra plumbing to the pumps (valves). That's what I'll be doing to mine when I'm ready for that step.

How does your engine do when the compressor is at pressure? Does it slow down to idle like it should? I'm still working on that part of mine. I think I'll be replacing the air cylinder on my engine with something different.
 

cornrichard

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Location
Galesburg, IL
There was already a coating but it was thin and there was light rust in the bottom of the tanks. The engine kick down works great on mine, I really have not spent a lot of time messing with it because it has not given me any problems. There is a mixture adjustment T on the back side of the carb float bowl. I had to adjust that to make the motor run smooth and idle right.
 

Speddmon

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mine runs smooth and idles ok, it's just the air cylinder doesn't have the ash or stroke to push against the governor arm to make it go to idle.
 
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