Starter Arc?

[jkupka]

While changing glow plugs on a 998, one glow plug dropped on the right side above the starter. I was unable to reach it and figured I move it and hopefully it free itself. Well as soon as I hooked the batteries back up I heard a spark. So I was able to finally fish the plug out. Then hooked the batteries back up and no power at all. What happened. Batteries are still at 12 each, so didn't short them out. Turn the master power on and no gauges even tick......

 

[NDT]

I would start by cleaning all the posts and terminals on the batteries, your short might have converted a poor connection into an open connection.

 

[snowtrac nome]

I second all battery connections also ck starter connections same can happen there

 

[jkupka]

Ok, had the bendex replaced and then installed the starter. Found a positive terminal with an arc. Cleaned all the terminals and still no power. I have 24 volts at the battery cables and 24 volts at the starter but no power. I pulled the ignition switch and have 17 volts at the ribbed plugged. There is even 24 volts on the post on the generator. ?????

 

[Wire Fox]

Wait, so if you have power at all of those locations, how exactly are you testing for "no power"? Is this just failure to start, your lights won't switch on, or have you actually probed with the voltmeter around the vehicle?

 

[jkupka]

When I turn on the ignition nothing happens, no wait light, , no gauge fluctuation. It acts like its dead at the ignition but when I probed the ribbed 3 way plug it has 17 volts. There is 24 at the starter and at the batteries. Yes I probed the generator-24v power, starter-power 24v, ignition-17v power. I even swapped out the switch. Horn works, headlights work. Heater switch is inop, all gauges inop.

 

[snowtrac nome]

try to cross the s and t terminal on your steice plug see if it cranks if that works the control box is your likely culprit

 

[jkupka]

I will try that....Also no wipers but the 2 dash lights are on but again no gauge fluctuation.

 

[Action]

As for no cranking, did you replace every wire on the starter? You probably fried the box.

 

[jkupka]

What cranking? I never said it turned over. It has no voltage when the ignition is turned, hence to gauge fluctuation. I have a spare Nartron box, same issue with either box and yes the spare is good. Why replace every wire??? I have 24volts at both end, at the batteries and at the starter. I have 2 Humvees and when I checked the other you can hear an electrical click when the ignition is turned on, then one more turn it starts. It sounds like its near the starter. And the dead one, I don't hear the click. And no I'm not talking about the box clicking, its over on the right.

 

[Wire Fox]

What cranking? I never said it turned over. It has no voltage when the ignition is turned, hence to gauge fluctuation. I have a spare Nartron box, same issue with either box and yes the spare is good. Why replace every wire??? I have 24volts at both end, at the batteries and at the starter. What I don't have is any voltage on the small red lead on the solenoid, should I?

I think you misunderstood Action. He's trying to address the lack of turning over/cranking by asking if you actually replaced the wires. It is possible that you can see full voltage through a set of wires, but they're damaged to an extent where they won't be able to carry current to actually function. If you put a jumper across the S & T terminals on the STE/ICE connector and watch for the starter to start cranking, as suggested by snowtrac, that will help us determine if there's a fault in the wiring to the start controller box or if it's greater than that. Your solenoid should have 24V on that lead when the start switch is rotated to START (Or S & T are jumped to bypass the start box).

 

[jkupka]

In the Humvee manual, the troubleshooting tree shows that if there is now power to the gauges and no power to the heater switch, which neither of mine do, that the Circuit Breaker 2 is faulty. What do you think? My only other thing I can figure is possible faulty neutral switch, but I'm not sure what to look for?

 

[jkupka]

I think you misunderstood Action. He's trying to address the lack of turning over/cranking by asking if you actually replaced the wires. It is possible that you can see full voltage through a set of wires, but they're damaged to an extent where they won't be able to carry current to actually function. If you put a jumper across the S & T terminals on the STE/ICE connector and watch for the starter to start cranking, as suggested by snowtrac, that will help us determine if there's a fault in the wiring to the start controller box or if it's greater than that. Your solenoid should have 24V on that lead when the start switch is rotated to START (Or S & T are jumped to bypass the start box).

Does anyone have good picture of the STE/ICE, mine are almost impossible to read. My apologies to Action, this thing is just frustrating and I appreciate all your guys suggestions.

 

[jkupka]

If you put a jumper across the S & T terminals on the STE/ICE connector and watch for the starter to start cranking, as suggested by snowtrac, that will help us determine if there's a fault in the wiring to the start controller box or if it's greater than that. Your solenoid should have 24V on that lead when the start switch is rotated to START (Or S & T are jumped to bypass the start box).

I was finally able make out the letters and yes it tried to start. Next step?

 

[Action]

If you think it is a circuit breaker, then switch the wires between the 2.

 

[jkupka]

I swapped the wires on the breaker with no change. The guy at Kascar said those two breakers reset themselves, so almost impossible to damage them. I did find what looks to be a ground wire burnt thru behind the dash panel that attaches to the far right on the metal dash frame. Going to repair that now.

 

[snowtrac nome]

the early model pcb's with a starter lock out were prone to frying, I used sand t many times to avoid using a to bar to bring a rig home I'm figuring you have a ground issue or a bad control box, the low voltage reading is indicative of a bad ground letting voltage bleed.

 

[jkupka]

I was able to finally repair the ground wire behind the dash that mounts to the firewall. Unfortunately that didn't do anything. Still now power to heater switch, gauges and of course no power when ignition is switched on. Ideas?

 

[kc5mzd]

Have you tried to test the voltage at the start switch. I converted mine to key. You should be able to reach under the dash and unplug 1 wire at a time. One of them should have a constant solid 24 volts.

 

[kc5mzd]

A faulty neutral switch should not cause the gauges to stop moving.