Starter Cable / Advice

[Apoc Bane]

Hi.

Background prior to question.
Had rear main seal, oil pan, and oil pump replaced at shop.
m1009 ran well for 3 days. Stopped starting only a click sound, after hearing power relay kick over, then turning the key.
Tested batteries - tested good.

Ordered new starter, thinking why not old one must be gone.
Got new starter (24v cucv one sold on ebay by eb electrics in CA)

Removed old starter.... Found the problem. The thick red cable going to the starter was cooked to the side of the engine and severed. Can only guess shop did it when they removed the starter to do the rear main seal.

Ok. Replace the cable, hook up new starter.. go to connect first battery ZAP! a shock.

I didn't think it was possible to wire up the starter incorrectly, but I've never worked on cars/ no one to teach.

Should I just go back to the old starter?
Something painfully easy with my wiring i did wrong?

thanks for the advice

 

[Apoc Bane]

Hoping I didn't fry some more stuff by the zap caused when I connected the first battery.

 

[mistaken1]

pictures of your new starter install showing the wiring connections?

 

[beanman1]

the zap tells me that something is on could be a stuck starter relay maybe

 

[downrangecop]

Bingo beanman. Just had my starter relay go out. Search the doghead mod. I did it two weeks ago. T was simple and worked perfectly. Legend has it the starter relay was meant for power windows, not a starter, so when something overloads the system, ie. Starter shorting out, the relay blows and your truck is in start mode full time. Be glad you didn't burn through all your disable links like I did.

 

[NMC_EXP]

Replace the cable, hook up new starter.. go to connect first battery ZAP! a shock

Same thing happened to me recently.

The original battery cable terminal/lug on the starter end has a couple of tabs. These tabs are design to engage recesses on the starter solenoid and thereby prevent the terminal/lug from rotating as it is tightened.

If it rotates out of position it can short against the solenoid and this is what happened to me.

I repositioned the starter cable on the solenoid and this eliminated the problem and there was no "collateral" damage to fusible links etc.

Jack up the frame (not the axle) at the right front corner to provide more clearance and a better view. Unbolt the starter, let it down a bit and it should wedge in and rest between the frame and some of the steering and suspension gear. You should now be able to see and access the front of the solenoid and it's connections from under the R.F. of the vehicle at this point.

Regards

Jim

 

[beanman1]

oh yeah i forgot about the short out on the starter got to really watch out for that it only has to move a tiny bit and contact to ground out

 

[Apoc Bane]

Thanks for the Advice guys.

I went to take pictures of the connection on the starter and discovered my problem. The () shaped connector on the large screw was touching the ignition key connector also. When I applied power the starter was in a constant state of ignition, which caused the ZAP!

Fixed the connectors and reapplied power and truck was running again =)

Moved on to replacing the hydrobooster that was old and leaking.

After the booster will be the leaking tranny pan.
Then the shot front leaf springs.

 

[doghead]

One more bit of advise, add your location to your personal info. It's the rules!