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Starter cases

ghambley

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Ok I have searched but couldn't find any thing so here goes. I had a starter shatter on me. It broke the nose piece off and cracked all the way across where the bolt holes are. This is a 4 month old starter but Orielys won't cover it so my questions is will the case parts from a 12 volt starter fit? Bolt to the block and fit the componets from the 24 volt starter? It cranks and has lot's of power just has a broken case.

Thanks for any help available.
 

Warthog

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The nose cone is the same on both 12v and 24v. Contact Barrman. He has replace a couple of them and has the part number.

also any rebuild shop should be able to get you one.
 

Warthog

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Seems like Barrman paid $16 for his. I could be wrong.

something else to watch for, the are two types of nose cones, small mouthed and large mouthed. I don't remember at the moment but one is for 4wd drive and one for 2wd. It is the bellhousing that is the issue.

the link above shows the small mouthed cone. The bendix opening is small.
 
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Hasdrubal

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Didn't know about the "mouth size" or if its actually an issue. The part number was correct. I knew there was another one that was not a "no shim" housing. I didn't install mine, but kept is as a spare. I'm assuming that as the bolt hole spacing is correct and the Bendix engages the flexplate that the extra material, ie; small mouth, shouldn't matter as its still the same size opening in the bell housing. Do let me know if you find out anything more.
 

kabar1

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Didn't know about the "mouth size" or if its actually an issue. The part number was correct. I knew there was another one that was not a "no shim" housing. I didn't install mine, but kept is as a spare. I'm assuming that as the bolt hole spacing is correct and the Bendix engages the flexplate that the extra material, ie; small mouth, shouldn't matter as its still the same size opening in the bell housing. Do let me know if you find out anything more.
Are they not all no shim for Cucv ?
 

Warthog

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Even if the Starter says "no shim" you may need to shim it. It depends on the block.

After sleeping at Holiday Inn Express, the small mouth starter is for the 4wd. The issue of "if it fits" comes into play when swapping stuff around like manual or automatic transmissions. I woke up early so I didn't remember all the useless knowledge.... ;-)

Of course YMMV.
 

ghambley

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No one brought it up but did the OP have the brace installed?
No I just bought this last Saturday it's a 85 M1008 and I didn't know about the brace but have one on order from the dealer. I am going to order the nose cone today and will let everyone know how it worked. I read some where that a broken nose cone was the result of a backfire or kick back I heard neither when this happened and the engine turns over by hand with no problems or noise is there anything else that can cause this problem?
 

kabar1

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did you make those instructional videos, while you were at Holiday Inn express? haha I'm referencing the fusible tutorials you were going to make that we talked about at the ralley.
 
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Triple C

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Most probably the starter broke because of the lack of the rear brace. I learned that the hard way on a 6.5, only mine also sheared the bolt in the bell housing. I would not put it back together without said brace. BTW, they aren't hard to make if you have a piece of angle iron.
 

Warthog

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We never have asked which starter is it. The newer gear reduction or the older direct drive?
 

Hasdrubal

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"Are they not all no shim for CUCV?" I've seen new ones for sale on-line that were advertised for a CUCV. Had a different part number and didn't have "no shim" on the casting. Probably made for the earlier years.
 

kabar1

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I'm going to go ahead and probably sound like a idiot, but how do you get the starter gear out to measure the clearance with flywheel, Tm was not real clear , it did give the measurements . Shims will only bring it farther from the flywheel?
 

Barrman

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Sorry I haven't helped on this thread any. Been a busy week.

The big mouth, small mouth is for automatic (small) or manual (big.)

I got my big mouth nose cone from NAPA. Joe was correct on the price being around $15 or so.

All of the above is for a direct drive 27MT.

All of the redux drive 28MT units say no shim. Just some of the newer direct drive 27MT starters say no shim.

You are supposed to bolt the starter on without the solenoid attached. Use your hand to engage the Bendix gear by pulling the plunger back and then get your clearance measurement on how close the Bendix and flywheel teeth are. It takes more time, but it sure beats laying there waiting for a piece of metal to stick in your eye while soldier B hits the starter switch up top.

If you have a direct drive unit, where are you getting the rear brace from? They were discontinued by GM a few years ago is why I ask. Also, be sure and use new GM starter bolts. Yes, it does matter and there is a difference. Amazon has them for pretty cheap if you don't have a dealer close by.
 
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