Starter Problems. Not so happy holidays so far :(

[pbrstreetgang]

What is the correct part number / replacement fly wheel. I just had my starter rebuilt and want to replace my flywheel but I don't know if I should trust the ones that are coming up on Advance and Autozone.

 

[ralbelt]

Replace the bolts when you replace the flex plate / flywheel.

 

[southdave]

think i figure out what happening, your starter is for humvee, the flex plate is different than the orginial one Cucv could this be the issue and the newer style don't require shim packs the ground to fit by manufacture

 

[CDN-CUCV]

I found out that Tractor supply or anyone dealing with heavy John Deers or Catipillars will have these bolts.
And in Grade 8

I have been warned about using anything but the GM starter bolts. Grade 8 hardened bolts may not break before your block does. Just a heads up....

This thread couldn't have been more timely. I'm having similar issues now on start-up, starter doesn't seen to be engaging fully but only when the motor is cold. Starts great otherwise. I'm going to pop my starter out tomorrow and have a look before I ruin my new ring gear.

 

[Mudstone]

second bump on where to get new flywheel...

 

[Screamin' Metal]

think i figure out what happening, your starter is for humvee, the flex plate is different than the orginial one Cucv could this be the issue and the newer style don't require shim packs the ground to fit by manufacture

Thats a definite possibility.......also check and make sure you started bolt threads are tight....sometimes they'll wollow out and the first time you start it....it'll scoot back and cause that. Also....check and make sure the bolts are under cut on the bolt dia. between the head and the threads...........

 

[Mudstone]

by not engaging fully are you referring to the starter seeming to not catch? my starter when the truck is cold kinda makes a spinning whirring buzzing sound and doesn't turn the truck over... is this symptomatic of a starter or flywheel prob?

 

[Screamin' Metal]

I see the situation is unsat....here's what you do.....

make sure you batteries are fully charged.....put your starter back in. hook up your remote starter button to the starter terminals. Pull the converter cover off. Get a flashkight, turn it on....take a sip of beer....but in this weather...it should be coffee.....watch the ring-gear where the starter gear comes out......aim your flashlight right there......and hit your button.

1. Now....the starter gear should engage fully into the gears
2. The starter and housing should not move.
3. The starter should not turn UNTIL the gear is fully engages into the ring-gear

If #3 is the problem....your starter is the culpret
If there is noise and mayheim as the starter gear meshes.......probably the wrong starter....the starter gear should slide into place easily when you tap on the remote starter button. Barely tap it and it should pop in and pop right back out.....

Your bendix could be your problem.....you have to look at how it meshes....

And for Pattons sake....don't stick Your fingers in there and hit the button.......and keep your hair an body parts out of the ring-gear....

 

[twright]

A nother thing to look at GM went from a 3eights bolt to 10 mm bolts some were in 86 the 3eights will go end and fill like they are good but the first time ok after that just a mabe.
Tony

 

[Screamin' Metal]

A nother thing to look at GM went from a 3eights bolt to 10 mm bolts some were in 86 the 3eights will go end and fill like they are good but the first time ok after that just a mabe.
Tony

Yea Tony...good Call! I've seen it done many times and it will wreak Havok.....those trucks have alot of metric stuff on them!

 

[Mudstone]

i think i need to check my starter bolts... then move on from there

 

[SmokeyDod]

There are two types of "nose cones for these military cucv starters (orig oem type) Some you use a Shim with and some you don't. On the ones that you are NOT suppose to SHIM, it says so. Look closely at your #3 picture, stamped on the nose cone that the solonoid is bolted, I believe I see "NO SHIM"-- I'll bet that if you look right above the lettering stamped on the alum it will also have a letter "A" stamped on it. All of the "A" type sayes "NO SHIM " . Also a lot of these types will have stamped "DO NOT SHIM" in the flat area between the two bolt holes.

There is the other type that does not say whether to shim or not. If you will look at the same area where you found the "A", on these there will be a "B" stamped (or rather cast into the housing. Hope this helps.

 

[Somemedic]

DONT use the chevy350 starter bolts sold at autozone, ever. They dont fit. Get the bolts from chevy and get 4 (or 6). Also, purchase a good set of easy outs. A disconnect switch on the batteries would speed up this process too.

I didnt shim a starter once. Clearly had the 'dont shim' on its nose too. Replaced it within a month since the nose cone broke.

And that PIA starter support bracket that bolts to the block and to the starter...? Its really not there for looks or to be an added step. The eng-i-neer who placed it there knows why he did it and so do I. Use it and you might just not be doing this in another 6 months.