zeisshensoldt
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No, I haven't. would it be worth looking into the filler cap via a flashlight to see if there's any junk in there?Have you ever drained and cleaned your fuel tank?
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No, I haven't. would it be worth looking into the filler cap via a flashlight to see if there's any junk in there?Have you ever drained and cleaned your fuel tank?
I know, man. I appreciate all the info you've offered, but at the same merit the tank is 40-ish years old and tanks aren't totally expensive.I am just trying to help.
Dependable, I have heard and read several places NOT to regrind or buy reground 6.2/6.5 cranks, they are surface hardened and you will end up with "soft" metal with a reground crank.The cost of a new crank is not that much comparatively, and if you do it before a problem arises, you can either use your current rods as they are or have them check, resized and balanced. Just my 2 cents worth but I have heard it from more than one source.It is not too expensive a job to put in a new 'crank kit' (reground crank with matching bearings) (always replace oil pump while you are in there).
That may be, but I put crank kit in a 82 6.2 K-30 (along with new oil pump and replaced glow plug damaged piston) and ran it for 10 or 12 years, truck still runs, but parked out back due to rust. If I recall, I had the motor out because of a rap due to sucked glow plug(bought the truck that way), and the crank bearings were a little worn according to "plastigauge" so I put in a crank & bearings since the motor was out anyway. At the time it was less than $300, including shipping.Dependable, I have heard and read several places NOT to regrind or buy reground 6.2/6.5 cranks, they are surface hardened and you will end up with "soft" metal with a reground crank.The cost of a new crank is not that much comparatively, and if you do it before a problem arises, you can either use your current rods as they are or have them check, resized and balanced. Just my 2 cents worth but I have heard it from more than one source.