Starter question

[dstang97]

first I wouild like to remind people Do not convert your CUCV to 12V . The 24V system works perfectly as is and is easy enough to work on.
now thats out of the way, I'm trying to bring my m1008 back to OEM specs. The previous owner changed to 12v and said he did not change anything but the wireing. So today I copied my gf's m1009 and when I went to start it, it sounded like a tv on the snow channel. I know it did turn over with 12v. Is there a way to tell if its 12v or 24v? It was def replaced but not sure when.

 

[Westech]

trace back from the starter where the main power wire goes.... you can always test the volts at the starter.. the big main wire is always hot.

 

[dstang97]

trace back from the starter where the main power wire goes.... you can always test the volts at the starter.. the big main wire is always hot.

yes it should be getting 24v now, but how do I tell if its a 12v starter or 24v? is there any markings or a model nuber to look up?

 

[Jake0147]

If it's a reman or aftermarket parts store starter, the replacement solenoids often (not always) have the voltage stamped into them.

 

[dstang97]

If it's a reman or aftermarket parts store starter, the replacement solenoids often (not always) have the voltage stamped into them.

I think I have to drop the starter and see if I can find anything. I crawled under it and someone changed it recently. so Im guessing 12v.

 

[JohnFire]

If he converted to 12V he would have had to have changed the starter as well.

 

[dstang97]

If he converted to 12V he would have had to have changed the starter as well.

I asked him about it and he said he just had the wireing changed. this guy was so coked up when i bought it, i couldent have gotten out of there quick enough. seems weird that there is a newer starter on there

 

[JohnFire]

If it was cranking fine on 12V then I don't see how it could have still been a 24V starter. My truck went through 3-4 24V starters till I gave up and went to the 12V conversion. The nose cones cracked on most of them and every once and awhile they wouldn't turn the truck over. It seemed as though the teeth wouldn't catch. Never had a problem with the 12V starter.

 

[dstang97]

If it was cranking fine on 12V then I don't see how it could have still been a 24V starter. My truck went through 3-4 24V starters till I gave up and went to the 12V conversion. The nose cones cracked on most of them and every once and awhile they wouldn't turn the truck over. It seemed as though the teeth wouldn't catch. Never had a problem with the 12V starter.

with the 24v thats what it sounds like missing teeth on the flex plate. but I did have my girl friend crank it over and I looked at the crank and it did move the crank a little but did not sound right. like it wasent fully engaging. I never reallly cranked it over with 12v so I cant remeber what it was like. I was too woried about burning it out with 12v.

worse case senerio how bad is 24v going to a 12v starter?
tomorrow I will take it down and look at everything

 

[Wartburg]

Pull the starter first. It should say 24v on the cylinoid (sp?). And you need to check the teeth on the starter and make certain there not already in bad shape. If you drop the inspection cover and turn the flex plate/fly wheel you can see if you have screwed up the teeth. If your starter is messed up take the sarter and get it fixed (new gear and cylinoid) rebuild around $80 at a good shop. if the flex plate is cooked you should be able to find one on this web sit. allot of the guys have changed there trains for 700R and do not need there old flex plate. You will have to pull the trans back to replace it but is is not that big of a deal. I got my truck cheep because the city garage could not figure out what was wrong with the starter on my truck and chewed up the flex plate trying to turn it over. The head of the starter had broken and the kog did not mesh and eat up my flex plate. Cornton kid sold me a new flex plate cheep and got me up and running.

 

[dstang97]

things did not go well today I looked at the starter and could not find any number, brand or anything so I hooked it up to 24v and smoked some wires on the fire wall. so I think the starter is 12v.

strange things I found were starter gear was not retracting and chewed 1 tooth on the fly wheel. another thing I noticed was the second bracket was not hooked up. it would not fit so I think they changed it to a gear reduction starter.

Any one in CT that knows these things in and out??

On a funny note I started putting my lift kit on a truck I dont even know if it runs.

 

[dstang97]

another thing I bench tested my starter with my 12v batery box. I hooked up the ground to the case and the little red wire to the big nut and taped it and it started to weld itself to the threads. So does that mean my starter is shot?

 

[dstang97]

any one?????????????????? I took the starter to advanced auto parts to test the starter still have no clue as to what voltage it is. So they tested it and it jumper way past 250 amps way more than a 12v but not sure on a 24V

 

[acesneights1]

Where in CT are you ? The Gear reduction starter to my knowledge is 12v. I "believe" the 24v is Direct drive but even if it was a 12v hooked to 24v it would work for a little while. Crank like a SOB as well. You could just have a bad starter. Missing the back support bracket is very bad. it will guarantee broken starter bolts or broken block
If the tooth on the flywheel is broken your kinda f'd. I mean you could deal with it and carry a wrench to bar the motor if it lands on that spot.. If it's just a little chewed up could probably clean it up with a file. Only two things generally break starter bolts, Missing support or the use of ether. I live in the North east. My time is limited as I work two jobs but if your not too far away I will look at if for you.
PM me.

 

[acesneights1]

BTW alot of autoparts store idiots(not all mind you) can't use a bench tester. Idiots at NAPA told me two of my starters were bad. Both were fine. Problem was a shorted batt cable.