Starter ran off on me

[tomcava]

Got the new 1028 running. Drove it home 30 miles. Got it in the drive way and !$#@$#@$ starter ran away. Before I could unhook the batteries the fusible link went, the starter caught on fire. Hopefully the flywheel is ok but i haven't checked yet.

They crappy thing was I already had the solenoid to do the doghead mod. Was planning on doing it when i got it home. I was a few minutes late.

So that said - what do I need to replace to fix this now? Obviously starter, melted wiring , batteries. But is there a electric transistor card or something that goes bad to make this happen? I'll obviously put the Doghead mod in now. This sucks

 

[NDT]

GM used a wimpy solenoid which you were about to replace. It's all just non-electronic wiring in the starter circuit.

 

[cucvrus]

GM used a wimpy solenoid which you were about to replace. It's all just non-electronic wiring in the starter circuit.

It lasted 30+ years if that's wimpy. I would be willing to bet it was cranked hard and long on weak under charged batteries. That will kill it every time. If it had good batteries it could be cranked a long time with the starter relay engaged/stuck. And what is non-electronic wiring? Have a great day. I had every type of starting system there is fail at some point. Many Fords with a HD solenoid. Anyone remember beating on the solenoid with a hammer to get it to engage or did-engage? Good Luck Have a Great Day.

 

[NDT]

By "non-electronic" I meant there are no solid state devices in the starter circuit such as transistors mentioned by OP. I agree the small GM solenoid should be fine, but I think you will agree that LOTS of folks have it stick on them. I still use the OEM part, but it dangles below the dash so I can yank it off if needed!

 

[moehos]

I had the exact same thing happen to me this spring... In the parking lot at the parts store. I thought the **** truck caught fire. Just the fusible links. Ended up ordering a new OEM GM starter relay, which is a PITA to find a replacement for if you want to stay stock. You can get them if you do a part # search online. It actually ended up being the POS Wilson re-manufactured starter I had installed when the solenoid started to fail on my original starter. It would stick on and keep turning after the engine was running. Yes I shimmed it and checked for clearance.

Napa carries the fusible link youre looking for, if that starter is salvageable, you might want to take it to a reputable rebuilder, or find a OEM type starter.

Best of luck!

 

[tomcava]

It lasted 30+ years if that's wimpy. I would be willing to bet it was cranked hard and long on weak under charged batteries. That will kill it every time. If it had good batteries it could be cranked a long time with the starter relay engaged/stuck. And what is non-electronic wiring? Have a great day. I had every type of starting system there is fail at some point. Many Fords with a HD solenoid. Anyone remember beating on the solenoid with a hammer to get it to engage or did-engage? Good Luck Have a Great Day.

Why are you always so angry bro? The truck was parked and running when it engaged - we were in the act of parking. Any idea what causes that?

 

[cucvrus]

No anger here. It's your truck. Do as you wish. I am pointing out the relay worked many years when truck was maintained in top running condition. The older it got the less the truck was maintained. It started harder from defects and the batteries were always low amperage as it aged and was not as well maintained. The combination caused the relay to stick. It is the weak link in the starting chain. But the stock relay is still used on many CUCV's and in the M1010 ambulance body. I seen it on many makes and models of GM vehicles. Yes your modified relay will work and yes the stock one will work also. Like changing tires and putting on different size wheels. They both do the same thing. I don't cut my harnesses. I change the plug in relay if it fails. Again. No anger. And I am NOT your BRO. All straight on that? Have a Great Day. What caused the failure was low voltage high amperage and it fused the contacts together. Something like that. Maintain and maintain. It is an old truck. It needs more attention then a new truck.

 

[dependable]

Suggest OP takes cover off the relay, and see if contacts are fused or look fried, that should let you know if that was the problem. I suppose there are are other possible causes for this, but have never experienced them. If someone has messed up the steering column, perhaps the ignition switch actuation rod could have cased a problem, for instance.

My crew and I drive CUCVs every work day. My experience is the original relay may have lasted 30 years, but the replacements may last only 10 starts. That is why I go to a heavier relay aka Doghead modification. What I can't afford is to have a starter run away on an employee who does not know immediately what to do, so now I change this part out as I put the surplus truck into work service.

The usual use of that relay in civilian chevys is on heater blower, a considerably smaller draw than starter.

And by the way, I do not hack my wire harness, I solder leads onto the base of original relay and attach a heavy duty one. Keeps things more original, makes a quick handy theft deterrent too.

Edit: I just remembered a time when a starter ran away for another reason; the nose casting had failed on the original 27-MT and caused the solenoid on starter to change position. And yes, the bracket was in place, believe it was original starter, on a truck recently off GL lot.

 

[firefox]

Yep, If you want to change the relay type, just use the old relay as a plug and relocate the new relay to the other end of that mounting surface. This way you don't hack the wiring harness.

I took my old relay and removed the shell and old relay parts.
Drilled a hole in the shell and put a grommet in it.
Fed a cable through the grommet and soldered the leads to the old relay base pins.
replaced shell on base.
Mounted a heavy duty relay at the end of the mounting plate.
Attached eye type solderless connectors to the end of the cable and attached to the new relay.
If the relay ever fails I can always just plug in a standard GM replacement one until I can replace the heavier duty one.

Works for me for many years now.

 

[Michael]

I am having trouble understanding how you drove 30 miles with a stuck starter relay. Or did you kill it and restart it when you got home? I would look to other causes if the starter suddenly re engaged on its own at the end of the trip.

 

[tomcava]

Starter was not stuck as i drove it. it drove fine and the starter popped on by itself as I parked it.

I am having trouble understanding how you drove 30 miles with a stuck starter relay. Or did you kill it and restart it when you got home? I would look to other causes if the starter suddenly re engaged on its own at the end of the trip.

 

[Michael]

Most people have this problem when they turn the key and energize the relay and it sticks and doesn't disengage when they release the key. I would be wondering why it randomly decided to engage and stick.

 

[tomcava]

Trust me - i am. I'm just gonna have to start going through everything. I can't even look at it right now i'm so bummed.

Most people have this problem when they turn the key and energize the relay and it sticks and doesn't disengage when they release the key. I would be wondering why it randomly decided to engage and stick.

 

[Keith_J]

The sticky relay under the dash is only there because of the 24 volt starter, the contactor on the starter can also stick. My starter run on problem was in the starter itself, mostly because of the missing retainer.

 

[Hasdrubal]

I thought I would add this from the TM ; NOTE; Original starter relays on vehicles prior to July 1985 production were defective. The point gap inside was too small causing starter to stay engaged. Vehicles produced after July 1985 and the current starter relay in supply system have a wider point gap to correct this problem.

I bought a spare from the now defunct CUCV electric, # 4952 Replaces GM 15591718. Still running my original relay, 14 years daily driver..150,000 miles.

 

[tomcava]

Where can i buy one????????

I thought I would add this from the TM ; NOTE; Original starter relays on vehicles prior to July 1985 production were defective. The point gap inside was too small causing starter to stay engaged. Vehicles produced after July 1985 and the current starter relay in supply system have a wider point gap to correct this problem.

I bought a spare from the now defunct CUCV electric, # 4952 Replaces GM 15591718. Still running my original relay, 14 years daily driver..150,000 miles.

 

[cucvrus]

NAPA AR746 will get you the ones I use if I buy a new/used CUCV. It works for me and many others I sold too.

 

[ssdvc]

NAPA AR746 will get you the ones I use if I buy a new/used CUCV. It works for me and many others I sold too.

Hey Rick, That number goes to a Blower Motor Relay at NAPA. Is that the correct part number? When I did a search, it came up AR 461 for the Starter Relay? I try to follow your advice, so I am just making sure before I go purchase a backup relay.

 

[cucvrus]

I used either one. But thanks for the update. I never seen the application. I will keep that in mind. I have been grabbing everyone I see from YOUPULLIT's. I know an M1010 box had about 4-6 in each one.

 

[Hasdrubal]

I've seen a few NAPA numbers bandied about here. AR135, AR746. There's also Autozone starter relay #AC40. The original#15591718 is still listed for sale on several sites. Try CARID, its half the price of Glamazon.