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Starter removal

Mike82ndABN

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Tampa/Florida
I've checked the TMs and it basically says remove wiring, remove lower bolts, remove the end bolt and remove with jack.

Well i have it loose, but i can't fit it out between the frame rail and the oil pan.

I can't get enough of the pinion gear out of the bell housing to begin lowering it, when i move the starter forward it hits the engine mount.

When i try and lower the front of the starter straight down, the solenoid hits the top of the frame rail.

What am i doing wrong?
 

Mike82ndABN

New member
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Location
Tampa/Florida
Also. I'm troubleshooting this starter.

I can meter 24v between the big posts.

I also meter 24v between the big positive post and the spade connectors on the solenoid. Is that normal with the truck off? I was assuming the spade connector on the solenoid should only get juice when cranking.

IMG_2897.jpg


Also, what should the small red 74A and black 74B do when off and when cranking? (looks like 74a should have juice from the run switch when cranking, and 74b should have nothing because it goes to the STE/ICE connector)
When disconnected from the solenoid i get nothing on either when off (normal), but when cranking i get 24v on red 74a (seems normal), and i get nothing on black 74b when cranking (seems normal).

thanks in advance
 
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Mike82ndABN

New member
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Location
Tampa/Florida
Seems like if i run a jumper from the big positive post i labelled A, to the solenoid spade i labelled C, the starter should operate (same as shorting S and T on the STE/ICE ?) according to the wiring schematic.
 

Mike82ndABN

New member
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Location
Tampa/Florida
I have the one piece cover. So it needs to come off? Makes sense because I don't see how else the starter would drop free. Looks like the y pipe has to come out too?

I will need a new gasket for the cover I assume.
 
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Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,252
161
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
I've checked the TMs and it basically says remove wiring, remove lower bolts, remove the end bolt and remove with jack.

Well i have it loose, but i can't fit it out between the frame rail and the oil pan.

I can't get enough of the pinion gear out of the bell housing to begin lowering it, when i move the starter forward it hits the engine mount.

When i try and lower the front of the starter straight down, the solenoid hits the top of the frame rail.

What am i doing wrong?
I, too, had this issue when installing my starter (was delivered without one). I had to remove the large ground strap that goes from the back to the side of the alternator. With that out, it granted just enough clearance for the starter to twist and drop through....but beware...it's an absolute nightmare getting that strap tightened back properly when you go to reinstall it like that. Lots of monkey handing was needed...

Oh, but yes. You definitely needing that cover off. It will be in the way of the Bendix housing dropping free.
 

gcbennet

Member
221
7
18
Location
Trenton, ON
The starter won't just drop straight down. It needs to rotate on its own axis to clear the frame rail. If you don't have the newer hook-shaped bracket installed for the front support I would highly recommend doing the swap. It'll save you lots of grief. The thing weighs close to 50 lbs and you'll need any advantage you can get.
 

Mike82ndABN

New member
223
10
0
Location
Tampa/Florida
As far as ordering a new starter... do they all share the same starter or do i need one unique to a 6.2? Anyone have a good source? I would rather support our members and vendors.
 

gaogre

New member
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0
0
Location
Douglasville, GA
12 volt high torque gear reduction starter AC Delco new

I just had to replace my starter and had some information from the experience that might help someone; this info was hard for ME to find, anyway. My M1009 was used by US Forestry in Hot Springs, AR and had already been converted to 12 volts. I had already upgraded the wiring (2 gauge) and replaced the two small batteries with one big NAPA 31P 1125 CCA one. I use the other battery slot for a 3000 watt 120 vac inverter for emergencies / power outages. In addition, I installed a low rpm / high output alternator (like an ambulance uses, PB alternator 220 amps), too. Anyway, I had a freeze plug leak that was hidden that dripped coolant into the starter, ruining it. After the leak repair, I wanted the highest torque heavy duty geared starter as a replacement. All I could find were the cheap rebuilds from the parts stores. I found a new 12 volt AC Delco high torque starter, part number 88877101. Actually a wizard found it for me. My mechanic friend, Donald, owner of Wizard Automotive in Douglasville, GA. He helps me a lot; I'm getting older and it is getting harder. I did replace the Doghead Relay (7018601) that I had put in when I first got it, too. It seemed to be wearing out, not always pulling in the coil when in start. It has never started this easy, winter should be a breeze! The best thing I ever did, for safety and ease of repair, was put a negative battery terminal quick disconnect in. I first had heavy duty switches, but they didn't hold up well for me.

In regard to the 3000 watt inverter that I installed late 2014 / early 2015, I had a chance to use it this passed winter when my home lost power due to the winter storm for about 5 days. I used it to power my home's furnace fan (gas heat) to heat my home for about an hour at the time through the night as necessary. The only problem that I had was that at this inverter output level, idle speed wasn't enough to keep the battery charged enough, so the inverter kept shutting down. I had to chock the accelerator pedal with something to up the RPMs a little to keep it going. But it worked!
 
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LAXBUBBA

New member
2
1
1
Location
MIDDLETOWN, DE
12 volt high torque gear reduction starter AC Delco new

I just had to replace my starter and had some information from the experience that might help someone; this info was hard for ME to find, anyway. My M1009 was used by US Forestry in Hot Springs, AR and had already been converted to 12 volts. I had already upgraded the wiring (2 gauge) and replaced the two small batteries with one big NAPA 31P 1125 CCA one. I use the other battery slot for a 3000 watt 120 vac inverter for emergencies / power outages. In addition, I installed a low rpm / high output alternator (like an ambulance uses, PB alternator 220 amps), too. Anyway, I had a freeze plug leak that was hidden that dripped coolant into the starter, ruining it. After the leak repair, I wanted the highest torque heavy duty geared starter as a replacement. All I could find were the cheap rebuilds from the parts stores. I found a new 12 volt AC Delco high torque starter, part number 88877101. Actually a wizard found it for me. My mechanic friend, Donald, owner of Wizard Automotive in Douglasville, GA. He helps me a lot; I'm getting older and it is getting harder. I did replace the Doghead Relay (7018601) that I had put in when I first got it, too. It seemed to be wearing out, not always pulling in the coil when in start. It has never started this easy, winter should be a breeze! The best thing I ever did, for safety and ease of repair, was put a negative battery terminal quick disconnect in. I first had heavy duty switches, but they didn't hold up well for me.

In regard to the 3000 watt inverter that I installed late 2014 / early 2015, I had a chance to use it this passed winter when my home lost power due to the winter storm for about 5 days. I used it to power my home's furnace fan (gas heat) to heat my home for about an hour at the time through the night as necessary. The only problem that I had was that at this inverter output level, idle speed wasn't enough to keep the battery charged enough, so the inverter kept shutting down. I had to chock the accelerator pedal with something to up the RPMs a little to keep it going. But it worked!

Could used the cruise control handle to elevate RPMs ?
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Papalote, TX
Could used the cruise control handle to elevate RPMs ?
That is not a cruise control, it normally will not hold the throttle open far enough to be useful as a cruise control.

It is exactly what he needed as it is a high idle control.

MOST people do not take the time to read the operator TM and that is their loss.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,716
19,766
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Location
Charlotte NC
Could used the cruise control handle to elevate RPMs ?
.
As @Mogman mentioned - Please crack the books - as much for your safety as anything. Wouldn't hurt for the safety of the folks around you too. Definitely don't use the high idle as a cruise control. Imagine if you NEED to stop and your brain is just a fuzz slow remembering the high idle - your 6000# truck would smash a Prius in a second...

What about this: The attachment below is the Qual Package that all military drivers have to complete to allow them to drive the HMMWV. It isn't as "dry" as the TM's are. This stack of paper is only 50 pages and hits the important stuff.

Maybe give this a look and see what you think?
 

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