Starter started smoking

[odonnys]

I started my M1009 and it sounded like a circular saw. I turned the key off and it was still making that sound. I popped the hood and by the time I got it opened the sound had stopped. There was small amount of smoke coming from the starter and it smelled a little like burnt rubber or plastic. I'm assuming it's the starter, but I have been told it might be the relay. Any ideas? Where is a good place to get a starter that won't break the bank. Thank you for any help.

 

[M1008driver]

I know this doesn't help but you better put your flak jacket on...

 

[camogriz]

I bought a brand new gear reduction starter from eBay for $140. That didn't seem unreasonable to me. The peace of mind with a new starter was worth it as well.

 

[idM1028]

Doesn't sound good. I had that problem once when I replaced the batteries and wired them up wrong Rare electrical sells nice, shiny, new, correct 24V starters for $90 as well as the super-special isolated ground alternators. Here's the link:
Welcome to Rare Electrical
Just do a search for "CUCV" and you'll find 'em.
P.S. the electrical stuff stuff might last longer if you didn't drown the truck in mudholes! I like to do this sort of thing too, but its h*** on the electrical stuff. Might want to hit the electrical connections with a bunch of dielectric grease when you replace the starter. You can find it at most auto stores. It's pretty much like grease for electrical stuff. Helps keep water, dirt and other junk out of electrical connections, but stills conducts electricity.

 

[Blue2actual]

sounds like a bad solenoid or the relay under the dash is shot...

 

[SGT Estum]

Nobody's said it yet? Ok... I will.

You should consider doing the "doghead starter relay modification" that is a sticky at the top of the CUCV forum.

 

[mistaken1]

Might want to hit the electrical connections with a bunch of dielectric grease when you replace the starter. You can find it at most auto stores. It's pretty much like grease for electrical stuff. Helps keep water, dirt and other junk out of electrical connections, but stills conducts electricity.

Due to my anal retentive nature I must point out that dielectric grease does not conduct electricity but it does keep the junk off your electrical connections.

What Is Dielectric Grease?

Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone grease designed to seal out moisture and, therefore, prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Being non-conductive, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. This property makes it an ideal lubricant and sealant for the rubber portions of electrical connectors.



As far as the OP did you do the doghead starter relay modification?

If not check your starter relay, you may find the when you install your new starter that it starts cranking the minute you connect the batteries.

 

[SGT Estum]

Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone grease designed to seal out moisture and, therefore, prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Being non-conductive, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. This property makes it an ideal lubricant and sealant for the rubber portions of electrical connectors.

That non-conductive property means that you can slather it all over multi-pin connectors without worrying about shorting them out. And that's why dielectric grease is my new best friend

 

[mistaken1]

There are conductive electrical greases....


Sanchem NOOXID electrical grease & electrically conductive grease dielectric grease and contact lubricants

Conductive Grease and Electrical Contact Lubricant
"NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical Grade"

NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL" is the electrical contact grease of choice for new electrical installations and maintenance. NO-OX-ID is an electrically conductive grease that keeps metals free from rust and corrosion. This electrically conductive grease which been used in the power industry for over 65 years to prevent corrosion in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear. NO-OX-ID electrical grease prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides and other corrosion deposits on copper, aluminum, and steel surfaces and conductors.

 

[idM1028]

Sorry. Brain fart/bad info. I'll admit mistakes when they are made. I'll have to throw some of that NO-OX-ID stuff in my giant tough box full of automotive lubricants and fluids. Any idea where I can get some? By the way, mistaken1 is pretty much the expert on electrical stuff around here. His explanations on how electrical stuff works tends to make my head explode

 

[odonnys]

P.S. the electrical stuff stuff might last longer if you didn't drown the truck in mudholes! I like to do this sort of thing too, but its h*** on the electrical stuff. .

...yeah about that, that's why I don't let "friends" drive my truck anymore

I'm going to go ahead and do the doghead mod and buy a new starter. If the doghead does the trick at least I'll have a starter on standby. I'll make a video when I do the doghead mod, post it on youtube, and put the link in my signature. (I believe it's not against the rules, but I will check to make sure.)

 

[odonnys]

I know this doesn't help but you better put your flak jacket on...

I didn't think about donning the flak jacket, but I did grab the fire extinguisher faster than you can say "oh shi.."

 

[mistaken1]

Sorry. Brain fart/bad info. I'll admit mistakes when they are made. I'll have to throw some of that NO-OX-ID stuff in my giant tough box full of automotive lubricants and fluids. Any idea where I can get some? By the way, mistaken1 is pretty much the expert on electrical stuff around here. His explanations on how electrical stuff works tends to make my head explode

I do not think I would go that far. I would stop at pretentious electrical know-it-all who is good for a laugh or two.

Any electrical supply house should have some form of conductive anti-oxidant grease. Might even be able to get it at larger hardware stores. Been using it at work since I was just a cub.

It does not work so well for multi-pin connectors but it is great for ground connections or other single point connections (24V buses on the firewall). I use it in butt splices and terminals as well.

 

[odonnys]

I did the doghead relay mod yesterday. Turned the key. No joy. I thought maybe the batteries were shot so I replaced them. Still no joy. I'm awaiting the arrival of my starter so I can replace it. When I turn the key wait light comes on, goes off, relay clicks, turn key to start, and the starter doesn't do anything at all. I double/triple checked my connections and they're all good. I'll update once I replace the starter and solenoid and let you know if my issue is resolved.

 

[Fleg]

Are you getting juice to your starter?

One of the reasons why I always recommend to people to buy a DVM, even if it's one of those cheap walmart ones. Troubleshooting electrical systems is soooo much easier when you actually know what is going on.

 

[odonnys]

Are you getting juice to your starter?

One of the reasons why I always recommend to people to buy a DVM, even if it's one of those cheap walmart ones. Troubleshooting electrical systems is soooo much easier when you actually know what is going on.

Yeah there's power to the starter aaaand....nada. I'm just waiting for the starter to come in so I can install it. It's just frustrating having the truck stuck in the driveway. I'd like to thank everybody for their input. I'll be back on the road soon enough.