Starter went pooff, including Fuseable link #16 HELP

[RockyM1028]

OK so i drive to my buddies house everything is fine.. I turn off the truck and ten minutes later jump back in her to run to the store, turn the Key and all i hear is a click??? So I try again a second time again just a click, the 3rd 4th and 5th try there are no more clicks just silence???? So I pop the hood and take a gander, I notice a little bit of smoke coming out from were the starter is as i'm puzzeled to this 1-2 seconds later I here a louder hizzzz and look over to see a fuseable link go up in smoke????? This link was attached directly to the positive power block on the fire wall and has a #16 stamped to it??? Anybody know what that link controlled?

I had already planned on changing over to a 12volt starter therefore I have it ready to go at home, I tock off the 24volt starter and jumped some power cables to it and I here it spinning but the engagement gear does not jump out!!?? Can the starter cause that link to burn??? Last month I replaced both alts with freshly rebuilt units soder'd and shrink wrapped all connections, also i bypassed the factory glow system and installed a new isolated relay and glow plug button and used AC Delco 60G plugs. I've put 200-300 miles on the truck and everything worked great.

So starter has been replaced and also i went ahead and removed the driverside alt to make it a single alt 12volt system as described by our resource guide, While doing this work I could not find any shorted wire's????Can the starter be at fault for this link going out???All the lights and power in the truck still worked after it burned, so I'm assuming it goes hand in hand with the smoke I saw coming off the starter???? I'm kinda nervous about putting a new link on without realy finding a short!!!

Any Idea's Fellas???? Thanks for any help!

 

[m4A1]

Which power block? the 12v or 24V? 12v on driver side 24v on pass. side. On the driverside, If you take the fuseable link off the 12v block and there are two connected to a single connector then you fried the links that connect to the alt. One link is for the driver side and the other is for the pass. side. The pass. side one goes to the ground of the alt. Your 12v stuff should still work off the batt.

If on the pass side then the fuseable link is for the 24v that goes to the starter relay.

 

[doghead]

All the fusible links are Identified in the -20 and -34TM schematics.

 

[Mike_Pop]

It sounds like you fried the solenoid. It can happen internally or it can happen when the power supply to the starter shorts on the frame or another wire. I've had plenty of starter woes on my CUCV so the best thing to do is keep a spare and make sure all your connections are tight and free of any breaks in the wires.

I've gotten good at pulling and replacing a starter...it only takes about ten minutes if you do it enought. A helpful hint is to have a longer power cable to the starter so you can remove it and undo the nut while the starter is out, instead of having to squeeze your hand up under the motor. I also added a wire terminal to the small wire so I didn't have to remove that nut at all.

 

[RockyM1028]

were can i find those schematic's -20 and -34? I looked under the resource guide could't find it.

 

[Crash_AF]

I would have to disagree with you DH, the fusible links are not identified in the manuals by number. And if he doesn't know what he's looking for and/or is not familiar with wiring diagrams, it won't help much. If you do know the manuals better than I do and there is a description and rating for the fusible links in there, please let me know so I can reference them in the future.

Rocky, you are looking for TM 9-2320-289-20 and TM 9-2320-289-34 in the resource section

The same wiring diagrams are near the back in both of them.

If the fusible link you are referring to is the one at the small diamond shaped terminal above the master cylinder on the long red wire going to the battery crossover cable, that is the main fusible link for the 12V circuits in the truck and nothing should work.

A quick solution to troubleshoot the 12V system would be to replace the fusible link with a fuse of the same rating (30A or greater) by crimping some female terminal ends to either end of the burned link and testing things.

If it is the link near the main positive block above the heater box on the passenger's side, that is the 24V link to the starter solenoid from the relay under the dash. If that is the case, you probably fried the relay into the closed position because of the current draw from the stuck solenoid.

If that happened, you can bypass the relay completely since you converted to 12V by making a jumper wire and jumping the purple/white wire to the purple wire in the socket for the relay (silver relay mounted to a panel bolted to the dash under the radio opening).

Later,
Joe

 

[doghead]

I did not say they are numbered. They are Identified with either the words fusible link or thermal. If you look at the schematics, they are also identified by color. If you can follow a line with your eye, you can easily identify where they are and what the are connected to.

 

[RockyM1028]

Thanks for the tip Crash about the purple wire's, Hooked everything up today and everything seems to work great she started wright up.. I could't find out what rating that link was so I installed a 30 amp fuse there instead!! Thanks guys.....