Starter will not disengage

[camdensc]

I just took delivery of an '86 M1008, and found that the starter had been removed. I have been reading over all of the great information on this site first, then I completed a 24v to 12v conversion and purchased a new starter.

As soon as I connect the battery, the starter engages, even with the key out. I disconnected the starter, and hooked up the batteries, everything else seems to be working just fine. I have checked all my wiring connections, and I do not think that it is related to the 12v conversion, but I am not a mechanic, and could use any suggestions that you might have.

I unbolted the starter, but reattached the wires, and could not reproduce the issue. But as soon as I disconnect the batteries, bolt up the starter, and hook up the batteries, it starts to spin.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

 

[IRWFO]

With the starter not grounded to the block it wouldn't spin when you tried it unbolted. Just take your test light to the small wire and I am sure you are going to find it has voltage. If it does go under the dash and find the starter relay (near the center over the T-Case lever) and I bet it is burned closed. I don't know about what got done with the 12v convert because I never did one so this may or may not help you out.

BTW, wecome to the board.

 

[camdensc]

Thank you for the help. You guys have done a great job with this site, I look forward to getting my truck running and seeing how much fun they can be.

 

[Armada]

Ditto. Common starter relay failure. You need AC Delco p/n 15591718 or equivilant.

 

[camdensc]

What should the starter relay look like? I was under the dash, but I am not sure what I should be looking for.

 

[camdensc]

I guess that I can just go down and buy a new relay, then I will know what to look for to replace. Thank you for the part number.

 

[Crash_AF]

The relay is bolted to a silver bracket that is bolted to the bottom inside of the dash right next to the diagnostic connector (the big round plug). It is a silver box about an inch and a half long by a half inch wide with a four pin plug coming out of it beside two of the bosch style cube relays.

Be careful with a 12v conversion as the amperage draw through that relay could overload it and cause it to fuse closed again. Some people have taken the stock relay out and put in a Ford style starter relay which is designed for the higher amp draw.

Later,
Joe

 

[IRWFO]

Some people have taken the stock relay out and put in a Ford style starter relay which is designed for the higher amp draw.

Later,
Joe

That is what myself and my friend with a 1009 did and neither has of us has had a problem again.

 

[Michael]

There is a picture in the FAQ post in this forum. Post #7.

 

[camdensc]

Thanks guys, I should be able to knock that out tomorrow.

 

[Chevytruck]

its in this thread

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=20600

just my

 

[ida34]

If you converted to 12 volt you can just rewire the relay out of it. It was initially to take the 12 volt input from the ignition switch and convert it to 24 volt for the 24 volt starter.

 

[camdensc]

Remove the starter relay? I am all for having fewer parts to go bad in a system. I have read about replacing the relay with a Ford relay to avoid burning out, and I have read about bypassing the relay to start the truck in an emergency, but how would you remove the relay entirely?

I am working with a red (12v feed), Purple/white ignition feed, Black ground, and Purple strarter feed.

Would you just eliminate the red wire and connect the other 3 together? Is there enough power off the ignition feed to engage the starter?

 

[Crash_AF]

If I had to hazard a guess looking at the wiring diagram, connect the purple/white wire to the purple wire. The red wire is the original 24 volt feed and the black is the relay ground.

Later,
Joe

 

[ida34]

There are two relays. On Chevy trucks the starter relay is part of the solenoid on top of the starter. There are two terminals on GM starters. The large one is the main power for the starter and is hot all the time. The smaller terminal is used to activate the relay and solenoid. The starter switch on the column send 12 volt to this terminal when you have it in the start position. This is how it works on a regular truck. On the cucv the 24 volt system is for starting only and for 24 volt radios. It also lets you slave start another 24 volt vehicle. The rest of the truck is still 12 volt. The starter on the cucv needs 24 volts constant on the big terminal and it also needs 24 volt to the small terminal when you want the starter to operate. The ignition switch is still 12 volt. To provide the 24 volt to the starter there is a second relay under the dash that is not used in regular 12 volt none cucv trucks. When the ignition switch is in the start position 12 volts is sent to the the relay under the dash. This relay then sends 24 volt to the soliniod relay on the starter. If you have put in a 12 volt starter then all you need is 12 volt to the start terminal at the starter. Remove the relay under the dash and connect the 12 volt wire that goes into that relay to the wire connecting to the starter. Us the information from crash to id the wires. Go ignition purple white and connect it to the starter feed purple.

 

[camdensc]

Thank you to everyone. I have not bypassed the relay yet, but I did replace it with a new one. After checking all of my fluids, I cranked it up. After 2 or 3 seconds, the engine kicked over, and black smoke shot out of the tailpipe! What a sound...

So I put it in to drive for a test drive, and nothin, just the revving of the engine........ So now I need to troubleshoot the tranny.

I was so excited to get it fired up, now the next hurdle. Thank again for the help!

 

[IRWFO]

Make sure your transfer case isn't in Neutral

 

[camdensc]

I tried to move the transfer case between 2wd, N, and 4wd. There was no difference. I think I will start a new thread and ask for assistance. Thank you.

 

[Armada]

Make sure the tranny fluid is up too. Not enough and it won't work. Also after sitting for long periods, especially an older worn trans, the fluid will drain down out of the passages, valve body, etc., and it could take anywhere from a few seconds to a minute for the trans to become operational. Good luck.

 

[ida34]

Paul,
In the other thread he posted that the fluid was low. I think he got it fixed.