Starters going out

[DawGoneIt]

The starter on the hatchery's CUCV is going out. This is a stock 24v electrical system. The question I want to throw out there is where to go to replace the starter? Can you get a gear reduction starter for a 24v system through NAPA?
We also plan on doing the Doghead Relay upgrade when we replace the starter. Any comments appreciated (even ones that help!).

 

[Warthog]

Yes you can get a 24vGR starter thru NAPA. Make sure you also replace the support bracket as it is not the same as the direct drive bracket.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/663502-post6.html

NAPA numbers - WIL 91014417 or NAE 76598

The GM part number for the GR 28MT 24v starter is 10479611

You can get 24v GR starters off ebay but they are made in China and it is a hit and miss on the quality and how long they last.

 

[DawGoneIt]

Thanks Warthog! Will follow that link you posted.

 

[Motorcar]

Click here: Starter Motor For CUCV M1008 etc, 1113591 / 1998454

Erik's, new, made in USA.

 

[dstang97]

1 vote for get your OEM one rebuilt by competent person.

 

[DawGoneIt]

1 vote for get your OEM one rebuilt by competent person.

What issues with replacing/reparing your starter did you run into?

 

[dstang97]

Nothing I brought it to a guy familiar with cucv's and he repaired it. Some rebuilders think it is 12v.

 

[Hasdrubal]

Another vote for getting your OEM one rebuilt. I bought the kit and did it myself.

 

[CycleJay]

DawGoneIt,

The best thing to do is to get the starter you already have rebuilt by a competent,
honest, and reputable shop.

Good luck..

 

[Cucvnut]

Ha 250 for a starter......

 

[DawGoneIt]

Another vote for getting your OEM one rebuilt. I bought the kit and did it myself.

I'm looking at our options...do you happen to have the part # for the kit you used to rebuiild your starter motor?

 

[epartsman]

DB Electrical has a gear reduction 24 V starter for $108.00 brand new with a 1 year no hassle warranty.
It is available direct or on *Bay. The appropriate bracket is GM 23502557 available at any dealer. I have one of these on mine with instant starts and no problems so far. Make sure to get a pack of shims, new bolts (torque to yield), and check your flywheel.

 

[DawGoneIt]

Hey, this all gets better....we pulled the old starter out and inspected the flywheel...NO TEETH! Well, there were a few left to make things interesting....

 

[epartsman]

Hey, this all gets better....we pulled the old starter out and inspected the flywheel...NO TEETH! Well, there were a few left to make things interesting....

Flywheel also avail on *bay $55.00 shipped. Search 6.2 flywheel. Get rid of that starter and upgrade to the Gear reduction. Mine was the same way. Bad relay, unknowing PO that installed a 12V cheap rebuild. The rest was history. Your call. Hope you get it fixed. Been there, done that, still have the torn and stained T shirt.

 

[Hasdrubal]

Just ask for a rebuild kit for a 27MT. It was only $40.00, here in Canada, that was 5 years ago. I wouldn't trust these chinese gear reduction units. What good is a one year warranty, a couple of years down the road. The 27MT is a heavy duty piece of engineering. When I first got the M1009 it cranked slowly and was hard to start. Then it started to grind, upon inspection the main shaft had worn the bearing out into the end cap and it was wobbling about. Got a new flexplate too. Now cranks the engine over really fast, starts instantly.

 

[Matt65]

Flywheel also avail on *bay $55.00 shipped.

I used a Surplus part from Saturn @ $28.50
Saturn Surplus


Confirm correct allignment between the starter and Flexplate, some call it a Flywheel even on Automatics. Measure correct clearance between the gears in several spots around the flexplate before starting. If correct clearance can not be achieved with your "NO SHIM" starter then you have no choice, and must shim. Because some starters will engage when you pull the starter gear out manually, I ALWAYS disonnect all batteries. You can then run 12V directly to the small solenoid stud on the starter. Mine has two and the correct one is nearest the engine block used by factory start wire (purple I think). The Gear will extend, but can not spin because there is no power to the starter motor. Do the Doghead Mod (modification not moderator). Use GM Starter bolts @ Factory Tq with correct starter brace.

I have a DB Electric Starter, it didn't last long. I cut my losses and had my factory 27MT rebuilt.

 

[epartsman]

I used a Surplus part from Saturn @ $28.50
Saturn Surplus


Confirm correct allignment between the starter and Flexplate, some call it a Flywheel even on Automatics. Measure correct clearance between the gears in several spots around the flexplate before starting. If correct clearance can not be achieved with your "NO SHIM" starter then you have no choice, and must shim. Because some starters will engage when you pull the starter gear out manually, I ALWAYS disonnect all batteries. You can then run 12V directly to the small solenoid stud on the starter. Mine has two and the correct one is nearest the engine block used by factory start wire (purple I think). The Gear will extend, but can not spin because there is no power to the starter motor. Do the Doghead Mod (modification not moderator). Use GM Starter bolts @ Factory Tq with correct starter brace.

I have a DB Electric Starter, it didn't last long. I cut my losses and had my factory 27MT rebuilt.

Well so far 6months on my DB with no issues and I use it 2 to 3 times a week. New FW, brkt, bolts, and shimmed correctly. The GR starter sounds like the new Humvees. It's all preference. The original 27MT in mine was toast. The rebuilt the PO installed was smoked (smelled burnt) and since the orig FW was a goner I had to go all new and I am glad I did. It's all a matter of preference. I would hate to rebuild a starter and still have a problem that could take out another FW. Not worth it to me. Again it's a matter of preference.