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starting advice

2deuce

Well-known member
1,479
147
63
Location
portland, oregon
Hello, I could use some advice on cold starting. It was only 32 degrees but ran the batterys down. Batterys are new. Starts harder than I think it should even when its 60 degrees. Runs strong and starts good after warm up.
Thanks
 

CGarbee

Well-known member
2,472
552
113
Location
Raleigh, NC
Also, if you've got a truck that tends to let the fuel run back out of the injector, letting the tank pump run for a bit to ensure that you've got fuel all the way up to the engine will help things... If you're cranking the engine without fuel up top, it takes a long time... One of my three always starts better if it has been sitting for a while if I flip the switch, walk around the truck, then try to crank it.
 

JohnnyReb

Member
513
13
18
Location
North Georgia Mtns.
Ugg013 said:
Guy's:

Why not pull out the throttle cable? :?

Later
Ugg 8)
I put my pedal to the floor to start but then pull back to an idle until the oil pressure builds up. Don't think I would want to have the throttle cable way out and the rpms screaming without sufficient oil pressure.
 

Westech

CPL
6,104
207
63
Location
cow farts, Wisconsin
DO NOT HOLD PEDAL TO THE FLOOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!!!! on the ld(t)465 motors you can lock up the motor with unburned fuel. The injectors will flow enough fuel to start it. You can "play" with the pedal a bit after it starts to pop to get it going, BUT NEVER HOLD IT DOWN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BAD BAD BAD!!! DON'T MAKE ME COME OVER THERE.
 

mangus580

New member
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Location
Western NY
aww c'mon WT.... you would have a good time over here ;-)

Actually when cold starting my deuce, I pull the throttle out about 2 clicks.... and thats where I start it....

I was just mentioning whats stated for the 6.2
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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GA Mountains
Multifuels have a history of hydrolocking on fuel. I'm with Westech, don't fool too much with the throttle when starting. Also consider the 10 seconds (eternity while starign at the gauge) you have with no oil pressure.
 

cranetruck

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Meadows of Dan, Virginia
When the flame heater doesn't fire you are filling the intake manifold with raw diesel, which could lead to hydrostatic lock. Be careful when flipping that switch.
Despite all the warnings (PS Magazine), ether can be used, but use it only when cranking and in small "puffs" and DON'T use the flame heater at the same time.

Nothing beats fresh batteries, the engine must crank rapidly to start when it's really cold and I don't touch the "gas" pedal when starting.
After it starts. let it run for a while at idle to build up oil pressure etc. The turbo has no oil supply until the oil pressure is up. Multigrade oil will help in cold weather, although I'm sticking to 30 weight since it doesn't get below zero in my area very often.
Other items to keep in order include clean filters (fuel and air), drained primary filter and fresh diesel fuel. Water in the lines can freeze.

If the weather stays cold for days and you need to use your truck, start and run it for 20 minutes or so, every 4-6 hours around the clock and it will start very easily every time at temps way below zero.
 

wallew

Active member
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San Angelo, Tx USA Planet Earth
OK, it's time for me to ask a really stupid question again. Why hasn't anyone installed an oil pressurizing unit in their deuce? You flip a switch, a motor comes on and pressurizes the motor (the gauge shows it) and THEN you start the truck?

This is old hat to trucking companies and drag racers. Just curious. Plus if my old memory serves me correctly it will mount/function in ANY motor, diesel or gas.
 

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
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Another benefit to the pre-oiler's mentioned is that you can run them after shut down, thus pushing oil through the turbo-Porsche 930 guys have been using them for a long time.
 

Rattlehead

Member
645
3
18
Location
Michigan
I have thought about a preluber for the deuce also. But I think the biggest problem is the drainback of the oil filter housings. If there were a way to stop this (unless you are going to change the filters!), it would go a long way. Because of this drainback, I doubt the accumulator style prelubers would be worth much, as they probably don't have the volume to fill the filter housings.
 

Recovry4x4

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I just can't see how an engineer could have designed it that way unless the oil is filtered as it completes its path through the engine. If this were the case, oil would be flowing at start up but pressure woulnd't register untill the cannisters were filled. I'm inclined to think its this way. All these dry startups or so they appear would have significant effect on oir engines early in life. 60,000 mile engines are common. Any one agree with this thought?
 

Armada

New member
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Location
Buick City, MI
I agree. The oil pump feeds the engine before the filters.
Isn't the gage the last point in the engine to see pressure? Which would mean oil is flowing before a reading is made.
Also, use an additive, i.e. Lucas, which helps to protect during start-up by leaving a film of lube on all surfaces.
 
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