• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Starting issue now

robkiller

Member
206
1
18
Location
Colorado Springs CO
If, after installing your new fuel filters, you reinstalled the check valve in the fuel line just ahead of the IP (and the check valve is functional) you should not have an issue with "Fuel Bleeding down". Assuming a good check valve, bleed air while cranking (throttle opened) by cracking the IP fuel-in fitting until clear. Then, while cranking with the throttle open, crack the fuel line at each injector one at a time until no bubbles.
Jerry

Where is the check valve? I never installed one does it have one already? If so where I will make sure its working.
Ok found the check valve location I will make sure its working and installed.
 

storeman

Well-known member
1,345
52
48
Location
Mathews County, VA
If, after installing your new fuel filters, you reinstalled the check valve in the fuel line just ahead of the IP (and the check valve is functional) you should not have an issue with "Fuel Bleeding down". Assuming a good check valve, bleed air while cranking (throttle opened) by cracking the IP fuel-in fitting until clear. Then, while cranking with the throttle open, crack the fuel line at each injector one at a time until no bubbles.
Jerry

Where is the check valve? I never installed one does it have one already? If so where I will make sure its working.[/QUOTE

Rob,
An evening on the puter with the TM I linked to, focused on the fuel system, would be of great help to you.
Jerry2cents
 

robkiller

Member
206
1
18
Location
Colorado Springs CO
Ok I read on how to make sure the timing on the injector pump is right. I must be dumb I did not follow it at all. I don't have a button. Its the unit that was running on it already all I did was change the o rings in the pump. Anyone have a video or a dumbed down version?
 

Jimc

Member
725
1
18
Location
Mullica, nj
well if its your original pump and you didnt change anything then the button wouldnt change. as long as you use the 1/8" drill bit in the side to lock the gear in the right place when you install it then your good. pump is installed with the pointer dead nuts on the pc mark while on the #1 compression stroke. after the #1 intake valve closes keep rotating until you see the pc mark.
 

robkiller

Member
206
1
18
Location
Colorado Springs CO
Where do I place the 1/8 drill bit? Do I take out a screw? The pump is installed. Is there a way to test the timing after its installed? What I did was mark the teeth on the injector pump when I took it off and placed it on the same mark when I placed it back.i want to check it to make sure its right now that its on as one of my checks to make sure its not the reason for a hard start.
 

Jimc

Member
725
1
18
Location
Mullica, nj
there is a screw with a copper gasket on the side of the pump mounting flange. there is a groove in the gear it goes in. do you have the manual? its all spelled out there with pictures and done in a few steps.
 

Jimc

Member
725
1
18
Location
Mullica, nj
its not a setting its just a plug to keep oil in and dirt out. in the manual it shows it removed and someone sticking a wire in the hole.....i think
 

robkiller

Member
206
1
18
Location
Colorado Springs CO
Well that makes more sine and this a lot easier. I read dont remove factory set so I was trying to get this done without that. Thanks and thanks for the patience I am a bit slow at time.
 

Jimc

Member
725
1
18
Location
Mullica, nj
the only thing factory set is the shims on the block. there are shims between the block and the pump. they stay on the block. everything else is free game :)
 

robkiller

Member
206
1
18
Location
Colorado Springs CO
Update
Completed

Injectors = recalibrated
Throttle linkage sticking= not sticking
Bad glow plugs = check good
Using fuel additive = I am using additive
Crappy fuel = has additive and is a month or so old
dirty filters = filter kit was installed and new filters have about 1 hour on them
Valve adjustment =completed not much change needed
Have you cleaned your fuel tank and fuel pump screens and filters recently= they were like new
Fuel line not properly bled= I think this is good. i can hear fuel getting to the main tank again with extra fuel not being used when not running
Injector pump timing = Checks ok if i did it right.
Need to test

lack of fuel pressure to IP = don’t know how to test ideas?
Air leak in fuel lines= don’t know how to test this ideas?

So i have not helped it from puttering at startup and blowing smoke from one of the cylinders with all i have done. It does stop after its running for a bit and gets warmed up (no change). I have not run it under load to see if the changes above made any difference. On my next big run (when its warm and i can go outside) I will record the starting of the generator so everyone can see and hear what its doing. I will also test to see if it can handle more of a load then it was before. Before it may have had around 75 percent before it had issues.

If none of this works to help it out i am guessing i will need to try and find a way to complete a pressure test. I would do that now but i can find a tester for this gen set.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks