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Starting new thread for same old problem.....

Brad

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Bolivar, Pa
Am checking all suggestions. Have installed new 24V fuel pump. Still wants to stall. Have new spark plugs and am installing, but that is not why this thing keeps shutting down.
Back to the fuel pump, the one I took off had two wires going into the harness. I hooked up the hot wire to the new one, but is the other an internal system type ground. Should I attach my ground wire to that wire? The pump I bought was for general use and was to be grounded to the frame, but is that correct for this truck?
Mr Stud, when you say ignitor, do you mean the wire that goes into the distributor??
Thanks, we are spending another day on this beast, trying to have it for Memorial Day????
 

Brad

Active member
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Location
Bolivar, Pa
OK, reset points, they were too wide. Changed coil, new spark plugs, new points and condenser, new fuel pump? Still no good. Starts right up and idles fine. Soon as start down road starts sputtering, especially on hills.
Was looking at an old carb I have and there is a needle valve in it that mine does not have. I may have not noticed it, and lost it when cleaning carb? In looking at carb info sent me there is something called "pump discharge needle valve" but the drawing is very hard to see>
Does anyone know if there is a needle valve in the main body other than the one at the float?
 

Brad

Active member
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Location
Bolivar, Pa
No improvement. Starts right up, idles fine, start down road, soon as a hill or grade, starts sputtering. Sometimes even on the level?
I am out of ideas, I have done everything suggested that I am able to do, or understand.
It is just a Gas engine, I am 72 yrs old and have worked on my own cars and trucks for many years in the past. (Not this new crap.) But this kind of stuff,. Fuel air and spark. I have never had anything like this. Out of ideas and darned near out of $$$.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Woodinville, Washington
You say you rebuilt the carb ? That opens up a whole new can of worms. Did you replace the "piston" thingy (accelerator pump) that squirts fuel into the manifold ? There is usually a small check valve at the bottom of the bore (ball bearing usually) . Also you mention the idle adjusting screws are missing ? Did you properly adjust the float level according to the instructions ?
So many things to go wrong here.
 

msgjd

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upstate ny
I had an XM211 many years ago but ran into the sputtering problem under load with a 1940s farm tractor i got at auction... Without gleaning thru this entire string, have you cleaned the air cleaner? .. I have seen where mice got inside those oil baths and they rot into muck and clog the strainer mesh quite spectacularly .. Nasty nasty stuff , almost turn the stomach

those things are supposed to get cleaned in kero or solvent at intervals , but most people neglect the task, perhaps have never done one in their lifetime
 
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Brad

Active member
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Bolivar, Pa
We have cleaned the air filter. We have actually test driven a couple times with the filter not attached to carb. I did not actually rebuild the carb. I just partially took it apart looking for crud or obvious problems. I did not adjust the float. All had worked well for years? However yesterday I took two other carbs we have apart looking to see how good / clean they looked. I noticed that "pump discharge valve" in both of them. But not in the one in the truck. So we put one in it. I may have not noticed and lost when I had it apart? Anyway, made no difference.
I am going to replace the entire fuel line today, between the rain.
I also am concerned about the dist cap, if scratched or small chips, could that cause this?? I can see no cracks, but perhaps it is somewhere?
Thanks ya'all !!
 

msgjd

Well-known member
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Location
upstate ny
I also am concerned about the dist cap, if scratched or small chips, could that cause this?? I can see no cracks, but perhaps it is somewhere?
Thanks ya'all !!
run it in the dark and watch the distributor cap (and wires) for spark jumping .. Wait,,, you said scratches or chips in the cap? Does this truck have a civilian-type distributor ?

It's supposed to have a sealed metal distributor assy, and yeah, if it has the sealed one it's gonna be hard to watch for spark jump but maybe it will work with the cover off and plug wires stuffed into the cap direct

Embarrassed to say it's been the recent years since i had to be inside a sealed one thus I've forgotten what it looks like inside ! :oops: Old age has some privileges, but short-term memory loss isn't one .. Doctor says it's not that, that it's just "occupational stress" therefore i don't retain any visual details of completed tasks in my head anytime I'm in a yank with a ton of unrelated tasks to take care of a particular day.. Time will tell
 
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Brad

Active member
224
44
28
Location
Bolivar, Pa
Just replaced entire fuel line from tank to and pump to carb with 5/16" new rubber line. No better.
Now have replaced float needle valve and seat because the one we were using (for last 20 yrs) did not have the little wire that pulls it open when float goes down.
We have tried everything except change porcelain dist cap as we don't have another one.
I am going to take our cap apart and examine it best I can. Yes, it is all original sealed military type. We bought and installed the correct wires new, about 15 or so years ago.
Also checked voltage at pump 24.8V . Voltage at ignition wire going into distributor 24.3 V. I don't know any way to test while running, everything is sealed?
There is nothing left to try that I can think of?
It starts right up and will pull out and take off for a couple hundred yards, then cut out??
 
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