Starting new thread for same old problem.....

[Brad]

I have a spare carburetor I can take pictures of as I tear it down to show you how to rebuild it.
Will that help you ?

Howdy, Since I have no actual assembly dwg for that carb, perhaps you could be able to tell me?
The order of the gaskets between the top (horn?) of the carb and the main body? Mine has fiber / metal / fiber. But what keeps that botton fiber gasket from sagging down toward the float?
I believe ther is supposed to be a needle valve called "Pump Discharge Needle Valve" goes straight down into the carb body? I don't think this carb had one in it for the last 10 years or so? But the other two old carbs I have both had it. So I put one of them in this one?
But it has ran fine for 10 years or more??
I am not positive this float is set correct, but how could it have changed? I did nothing to the float or it's setting?
Thanks

 

[NDT]

When it’s sputtering are you getting black smoke? Maybe this is the carburetor flooding. Hard to detect this since you can’t see down the throat of the Holley.

 

[Brad]

I have not noticed any black smoke, except once when he was shifting gears. (we have a standard 5 speed manual transmission in this truck)
However there is wet black soot running down the outside of the stack now that it's raining?
So how could this problem be addressed? There are only the two idle screw adjustments on the carb???

 

[rustystud]

OK. First off you need to determine if your ignition system is working properly. That means your points, condenser, cap and rotor, spark plugs and cables. Once they have been fully checked out, you then can go and check the fuel system.
No more jumping around. That gets you nowhere fast. You need to be methodical about this. Don't "assume" anything is OK until you check it out. Even if you just "replaced" it.
So, make a plan and go from there.

 

[Brad]

Yesterday I watched videos on how to check the condenser and coil with a volt meter. It is hard to check the coil to see if it is only bad when it's hot because it takes so long to take the cap off. So we ordered a new coil. The one in it checks out ok when cold.
Otherwise almost everything is new, the points, condenser, 6 new plugs. The wires are about 15 years old and I am going to check them today as best I can with the volt meter. ABout all I can check for is continuaty?
The original capacitor had a broken wire so I had an old one and replaced it with it. Would a bad capacitor effect the running? I was told they are only for radio static?
I have 24V to the coil and to the fuel pump.

 

[Brad]

Waiting on the new coil, pray that's the fix. Yesterday we checked each plug wire with a meter for continuaty and any shorts to the outside braided cover. All seemed fine
Bought a can of starting fluid and while running, sprayed all intake areas, the manifold and carb base, etc. No sign of any leaks.
My manual shows point gap should be .022. I have checked it a couple times and am confident I have that about right. However there is a local guy that was a pretty good mechanic at a Chevy garage of old and he says he never saw points that wide?
I just wonder if somehow this truck got out of time? Maybe the timing chain jumped a tooth or whatevrer.
I just walked out and hit the starter and it started right up and idles. But after a couple hundred yards it just sputters out? I can keep it running by working the throttle, but it will not go like that.

 

[USMC 00-08]

Go check the fuel inlet line to the carburetor. There is a fitting where the line goes in and on top of that is a wire screen that gets clogged up and causes exactly what you are describing. Remove that fitting and check the wire screen. Here is a picture of one I dealt with that was causing the same issue you are dealing with. I have started putting an inline fuel filter just before the carburetor to stop this from happening.



It sound's like you might have other issues/missing pieces in there as well so this might not fix all of your problems.

 

[Brad]

I am not sure I had that portion apart when I took the carb apart.
I am going out this very minute and check that. But we have always had an in-line filter just ahead of the carb. But who knows!? I gotta check it out.
Thanks

 

[Brad]

Well, thanks for the filter tip. But I just checked and my carb did not even have that filter in it, In fact I checked the other two parts carbs I have and they didn't either. I suppose that is why we always had that in-line filter just ahead of the carb.
I tried blowing in the line and it was near impossible. But I guess that should be closed if there was gas in the float bowl? I will look for a way to drain that without taking the carb apart?

 

[Brad]

I just went out in the total dark and started the truck. Sprayed a mist of water all over the plug wires and dist cap. Saw no sparks at all.
Same old thing, starts right up and idles fine. Try and go and within a couple hundred yards can't pull itself?