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Starting-out concerns??

rahl07

New member
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Location
Texas
Hey guys, some of you have seen me in the "new folks" threads.

Basically, I wanted to put my mind more at ease by talking to you guys about purchasing a deuce or similar.

To start: I've been offered to see/possibly ride in a variety of MV's by a member near my location, so I'll know exactly what I want after I've taken some time to see the vehicles in person. End result is it'll be a M35A2/3, though. I'm not really interested in anything bigger or smaller.

My first concern: tools. How spendy does this get? I have a standard set of 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive tools, wrenches in just about every US size, air compressor, cutting torch, and a bunch of other stuff. I do not have access to a "shop" however. I saw a thread of one guy just parking it under a shade tree for work on it-but if I need to do heavy work, what then? Find somebody with a big garage?

As a second, is there a list of tools you guys keep on-board? I looked for a list but the search failed me, or I failed the search by not knowing what to look for.

Next up: Speed and cruising. I know that in our vehicles, we don't want to push the top speed unless necessary. However, what kind of cruising speeds should I expect to achieve? Some have said that theirs chugs along at 45mph, some have said there's hits 70 (A2, I'm guessing this is flat-out). Our officers in the beach area, where my truck would be seeing most of its activity, will pull you over for anything just about, and I don't want to give them an excuse. Highways down there are 55MPH. I would like to shoot for a truck on super singles, regardless of A2/A3 build. If I have to I'll do it myself :D

Third: I've stood in the crossfire of A2 vs. A3 threads, and read about the transmissions and engines. Just how often are we talking about A2 engines detonating? Just how much does it cost to go to the CAT dealership? These are the tough questions I hope to eventually address in this thread. If someone could help me address the big concerns with both (2 or 3 talking points, not every known failure in the history of forever).

When you guys maintain your trucks, about how often does it happen (I.E. fluid swap, oil change, etc)?

Finally, if I buy a truck with a previous owner that took fair care of this rig, how much are we looking at (typically) to get it up and ready for use? seals and the like? Time and money; I have plenty of free weekends and after work the sun doesn't usually go down until after 8 here.

What I DON'T want to do is rush in, spend money, and then stare at it for months because I didn't read the fine print or didn't budget enough to get it properly moving again.

IF you guys can help me with any of this, it'd be greatly appreciated. And yes, I used the search button some!
 

dragonwagon

New member
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Location
west branch Mi
Im not the best source to answer your questions but i was a rooke deuce owner not long ago Iv done quite a bit of work to mine and have not had to buy any special tools for anything . I do have a set of 3/4 drive sockets that you may not but thery can be bought fairly cheap .

Buying a truck thats decent to start with will save a lot of grief and work in my opinion .

If you have a working knowledge of trucks then i dont think you need to worry . If your a guy with a lot of tools and not much mech knowledge , well keep in mind these are old machines . They like your attention .
 

Cleptomaniac

Active member
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1
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Location
Tecumseh ,OK
Their are a lot of guys on here that know way more about mechanical things than I do. But what I have heard about the A3 is it dosent matter if you put bigger tires on it it will still be slower than the A2. My new deuce has 9.00s on it and will only run about 55. That's pushing it a little. My bobber had 395s and she liked 62mph but had it up to 68 a couple times. My concern is stopping a beast like that if it's flying down the road at 70!!!! What it all comes down to is what you like.

Good luck!

Danny
 

runk

Active member
542
65
28
Location
Houston, TX
If you've got a good selection of normal tools, you're just going to need some bigger stuff:
3/4" drive socket set (or maybe even 1")
the special 8 point axle nut socket (3", OTC part # 1907)
3 to 10 ton jack stands and jack (extra tall or some heavy cribing and steel plate scraps)
3/4" open end stubby wrench to get the brake fluid reservoir on the A2 open (don't know about the A3)
a big 3/4" or 1" impact wrench makes life much better
one of the garden sprayer pressure bleeder is also very helpful
I've bought most of the stuff from Harbor Freight, not as nice as my smaller tools, but the price of "good" 3/4" sockets !!! I did invest in a better quality impact wrench, though.

I work on mine out in the driveway / yard. Won't fit in any of my garage/shop spaces ! I rig up a tarp from a building to a tree, and put down another to slide around on underneath. The only good thing about the drought is the lack of mosquitoes outside. I'd rather be working in an air conditioned shop with a 10 ton lift, but it's fine. Remember, these were designed to be repaired in the field if necessary.

For truck tools, I've been accumulating sets of bigger stuff as it is on sale at Harbor Freight, and the 3/4 sockets live in the truck.

One of the big reasons I went to 11x20's tires was to get the comfortable highway speed up to near 60, it's scary to drive any of the freeways or highways around here slower then that, and Houston is long way from any interesting places to take the truck. My A2 is very happy at 59, and I can push it to ~65, but that is right at the recommended redline. My radials (Goodyear G177) are also much better in rain on pavement (the mostly new NDT's were scary in the rain), and ride a lot better in my opinion.

As for detonation of the Multi-fuels, how many deuces do you figure members here own ? Remember, not everyone lists all their trucks! How many detonation threads can you find ? I would guess everyone who has had one blow up has posted about it. I figure the odds are fairly slim, and if it happens, I'll deal with it then.

The big maintenance should be when you first get the truck, depending on how much a previous owner has done (and how much you trust their work !)
1) all oils and filters (my oils all looked/smelled brand new when I checked them, so just ended up doing the engine)
2) grease everything
3) flush (thoroughly) coolant and replace all the hoses (not just the radiator ones) (it was amazing the mud like stuff that came out of the back of the engine once I got water flowing through there)
4) replace belts
5) inspect / fix wiring, replace bulbs, etc. (this was where I found the scariest "fixes")
6) brakes and hubs all around (I just finished this, but should have done it sooner, now that I have seen the insides of everything, everything was just full of crud from sitting.) No problem locking up all 10 wheels now ! (although not recommended !)
7) check for air system leaks, wear

I that point, I think you will have covered all the trucks systems, and just be left with cosmetics. Then you have to decide how often you want to do the various periodic maintenance, there are intervals listed in the TMs, but you may be using the truck very differently then the military figured on. With the exception of the brakes and hubs, I've probably spent about $1000 on all the parts and fluids for the maintenance list above. I probably spent another $1000 on the brakes and hubs, but I decided I was tired of ordering parts a hub at a time and just bit the bullet and ordered all new stuff, including master cylinder and airpack, with the exception of bearings, which were all fine. (although I did get one spare set). I am rebuilding most of the brake parts (with the exception of one cylinder, which was trashed inside), so will have a good spares set. Nothing has been hard, every thing is just big, which wears me out ! Definately takes me longer then the same job on one of my cars.
 

rahl07

New member
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0
Location
Texas
Alrighty. I'll start hunting for an A2 turbo! Preferable one that I don't have to drive more than 500 miles or so to get home.

Thanks for the tips; where would I get that mil-spec 8-point axle nut socket? and particular surplus dealers you guys recommend?
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,308
3,194
113
Location
Lexington, South Carolina
The 8-point OTC #1907 can be had at NAPA about as inexpensively as from any of the surplus dealers. They did have to order the one I got, but it was at the store in two days, that was a year ago and I haven't used it yet.
 

John S-B

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Ostrander, Ohio
I'd add a good pair of mechanics gloves, you can bust your knuckles or get your fingers pinched pretty easy on MV's. And a good first aid kit can be handy.
Make sure you have line wrenches and a flaring tool for air lines. A cheater bar is handy to have.
 

axlr8

Member
424
0
16
Location
Rushford MN
this is a very informative thread.....along with the cost of ownership ones....anyone have a stock list for their on truck tool box? i think thatd be a nice add on here...thanks nich
 

91W350

Well-known member
4,414
57
48
Location
Salina, Kansas
I carry a 42" long 1" drive breaker bar and a Budd socket. I also carry compressor wrenches and a pork chop. The pork chop is very handy of your rear lug decides to come loose at the nipple instead of the lug nut. Fighting that friction on the wheel with the lug nut until the nipple finally gets loose is aggravating, then you have the nipple and lug nut stuck with a wheel in the middle. Cheap insurance. Glen

Amazon.com: Ken-Tool 30609 Porkchop TX9 Cap Nut Wrench: Automotive
 

wreckerman893

Possum Connoisseur
15,612
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113
Location
Akenback acres near Gadsden, AL
A Bud Socket (see pic), 1 inch pull bar and cheater pipe are the best thing to remove lug nuts with......remember the drivers side lugs are reversed.

Using the stock lug wrench and handle can be an exercise in frustration....especially when it slips off and you lose some knuckle skin.

A 3/4 inch impact wrench will remove the lugs if they are not too rusted on or were tightened by a gorilla.

You can get a jumper to take the 3/4" drive to a 1" drive if you don't want to go with a 1" impact wrench. (expensive and an air hog)

If you are using the pull bar/Bud socket/cheater pipe use an extension and rest the shaft of the extension on a jack stand...it keeps the socket from slipping off.

Making a pump from a small hand sprayer makes it a lot easier to fill transmissions and differentials.
 

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BadMastard

New member
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Location
Duvall, Wa.
two cents more here. I have wrench sets in duplicate up to 1 1/2. I usually find you will need two of the same size, most every time.

I haven't had a lot of luck with using sockets since half the time you can't fit them in the space you will be using them, but I do carry deep well and shorties because when it does work, it's a time saver.

I bought several different impact wrenches to try them out, and the most successful one was an ingersol rand 2135TI. 780 ft lbs of removal torque on a 1/2" drive. Still usable with onboard air, typically good enough power for anything you're going to run into that wouldn't required the aforementioned 1" breaker bar.

If you go A3, get bigger tires. Expect to have to get custom rims. Also, you will need a 1/2" breaker bar AND a 2" extension to change the belts up front if they go. You need it for the belt tension and removal.

I have found more A3 parts available from commercial sources than the A2, but that varies from state to state.

Last penny's worth? We love both our A2 and A3, but for different reasons. We can drive the A3 everyday, and it's comfortable in the city. If it's long trips, it's the A2, since it has better highway manners, but it hates the city.

Enjoy either way!
 

rahl07

New member
12
0
0
Location
Texas
I got a full set of craftsman 3/4" drive ratchet and sockets for 90 bucks (sale, WOOH!) from 7/8" to 1 7/8". I'll start purchasing the combi-wrenches as i free up a little more capital.

I have a half-inch impact, and a 3/4" drive breaker bar. I'll take this list with me to ace later today and see what I can find. thanks guys!
 
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