Jakob
Member
- 722
- 5
- 18
- Location
- Louisville, KY
I guess I had forgotten what it was called, but that's my SOP and just always do it. It doubles to get some oil flowing through the engine before startup too.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
starting question
- Thread starter exoilfld
- Start date
m715mike
Well-known member
- 2,797
- 3,823
- 113
- Location
- Montgomery, Texas
Yes, sir. I’ve read the operator’s manual cover to cover, although it has been several years. Re-reading it certainly won’t hurt!
- 3,256
- 3,349
- 113
- Location
- NORTH (Canada)
The idea is to bump the starter (not hold the button down) with the shutoff pulled. If fluid had accumulated in the space between piston and head (because a headgasket leak or dripping injectors), the rotation would come to a dead stop. Hopefully with not enough force behind it to break anything.
Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
- 7,409
- 2,503
- 113
- Location
- Interlachen Fl.
Frank have you ever checked your running pressures? I was just wondering if that filter right after the in tank pump could cause restriction. The Deuce at one time if I remember just had the primary screen cleanable filter and I would think it was not even close to 10 microns. I believe it was a screen just to catch large stuff and water from getting to the booster. Then the booster can push fuel through the secondary and final. Some fuel filter are made to be pushed through and some are made to be pulled through. Myself I would only add filters after the booster or go with spin on after the booster not before. If I had to think starving the booster pump for fuel might cause cavitation at the booster gears. Yea it will run but is it straining the booster? The newer paper primary filter is a 10 micron then the secondary buy our Napa number is a 10 micron and with the Wix 33540 fuel filter it is a 6 micron for the final. This has always seen to work well for me with out going to spin on after the booster. Too me stepping down from 10 to 10 to 6 micron is better than three tens. Even with spin on for the secondary and final I would go with a 10 and a 6 micron if it was possible.
Last edited:
- 6,426
- 4,985
- 113
- Location
- Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Floridianson,
When I studied the hydraulic head of the engine and found those beautiful lapped-in parts I decided I never wanted to wear that out. I used to run a flow bench for a living building jet engine fuel systems.
I found that the flow bench for hydraulic heads now non-existant and the heads not obtainable.
I built it to filter all the full in the tank and back to itself in 90 minutes or less, even without the truck running. It had a good Throttle bypass of the filter back to the tank. Gauges before and after the filter. I built that and ran 10 and 6 and then 3 and then 1 micron filters. All worked good. It worked because of the output of that non-original (but alike) Parker pump from a Bradley vehicle that pumped way more that the appropriate 5-7 PSIG out to the booster pump. Always ran with the line back to the tank throttled open some to maintain what the booster pump needed. Also, those Norman glass mat filters were the best. That was the cleanest fuel ever to goto a Deuce engine. In the end I was running 90% NEW motor oil and that engine liked it. I should have bought every Bradley pump that guy had.
I posted the whole job here in SS one time and asked others what they thought but found no-one interested , (the not invented here syndrom) and I could not afford to patent it.
I finally sold the entire as built setup to NY Tom, an SS member. You could ask , Mr. Voytac, what He thinks of it or maybe buy it from him. I still have all my information and data but I think it is already posted.
When I studied the hydraulic head of the engine and found those beautiful lapped-in parts I decided I never wanted to wear that out. I used to run a flow bench for a living building jet engine fuel systems.
I found that the flow bench for hydraulic heads now non-existant and the heads not obtainable.
I built it to filter all the full in the tank and back to itself in 90 minutes or less, even without the truck running. It had a good Throttle bypass of the filter back to the tank. Gauges before and after the filter. I built that and ran 10 and 6 and then 3 and then 1 micron filters. All worked good. It worked because of the output of that non-original (but alike) Parker pump from a Bradley vehicle that pumped way more that the appropriate 5-7 PSIG out to the booster pump. Always ran with the line back to the tank throttled open some to maintain what the booster pump needed. Also, those Norman glass mat filters were the best. That was the cleanest fuel ever to goto a Deuce engine. In the end I was running 90% NEW motor oil and that engine liked it. I should have bought every Bradley pump that guy had.
I posted the whole job here in SS one time and asked others what they thought but found no-one interested , (the not invented here syndrom) and I could not afford to patent it.
I finally sold the entire as built setup to NY Tom, an SS member. You could ask , Mr. Voytac, what He thinks of it or maybe buy it from him. I still have all my information and data but I think it is already posted.
Attachments
Last edited:
- 7,409
- 2,503
- 113
- Location
- Interlachen Fl.
Yea not looking to change what I have now and selling my Deuce. Sounds like you have enough pressure and flow to the booster and that is all that matters it would seem. One micron is getting pretty tight. My Cat filter on my LMM Duramax is only a push through fuel filter and 2 micron and I am happy with that. On the Deuce as said 10,10 6 and no worry as worrying will give you warts or something like that. Also I had 10 rebuild Ambac Heads and kept one for myself if I ever thought the plunger and bore got in bad shape. Me worry no thank you but I do keep my stuff tight and right.
Last edited: