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Well done sir.
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Steelsoldiers’ BIG M1152A1 HMMWV Project!!
- Thread starter steelsoldiers
- Start date
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Thank you, Charles
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Might want to pre-drill and then plug the crossover for future water water/methanol injection and turbo boost pressure gauge. That is before you reinsert it.
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It’s finally earning its keep! Ho ho ho!
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Good news/bad news today!
The Good:
- I got my turn signal switch installed and all of the signals were working.
- I took a hammer to the transmission inspection cover and reinstalled it, and it didn’t hit the crank bolts anymore.
- I got the exhaust crossover installed and nothing leaked.
The Bad:
- I took it for a test drive and when I pulled back into the driveway, there was a steady stream of oil coming out of the front of the oil cooler. Unfortunately, it’s not leaking from a hose connection, but from the cooler itself. I hope it’s fixable because new ones are $800-1000! I’ll pull it out tomorrow and take it to our local radiator shop. I’ll have them straighten all of the fins while they’re at it.
The Good:
- I got my turn signal switch installed and all of the signals were working.
- I took a hammer to the transmission inspection cover and reinstalled it, and it didn’t hit the crank bolts anymore.
- I got the exhaust crossover installed and nothing leaked.
The Bad:
- I took it for a test drive and when I pulled back into the driveway, there was a steady stream of oil coming out of the front of the oil cooler. Unfortunately, it’s not leaking from a hose connection, but from the cooler itself. I hope it’s fixable because new ones are $800-1000! I’ll pull it out tomorrow and take it to our local radiator shop. I’ll have them straighten all of the fins while they’re at it.
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I have the same issue. I’m thinking of using Ford F350 oil coolers to reduce the costs of replacement.
I’m not driving a 24000 lb vehicle through the desert so I don’t need super crazy heat radiation. I’m not forking over $1000 for what should be a $250-400 part.
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Ugh. Sorry to hear that, Charles. I sure hope mine can be fixed.
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I also thought about fixing BUT my fear with fixing is that the part is weakened and will leak from somewhere else. I plan on camping in the desert off the grid with this rig. I would prefer not to become a statistic.
Oil and tranny fluid is not caustic… why do these damned things develop leaks???
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salt water immersion….simple, just depends on which truck you bought and where it served in the USMC.
many of these trucks spent life on a ship, forward deployed as part of an MEU.
if you can pull the cooler and spray a couple cans of brake cleen all through the coils to clean where the leak is then mix up a bunch of jb weld and push it in from both sides of the cooler and use plenty it will seal it for good at that spot just let it dry a few days
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I pulled the oil cooler out of the truck yesterday and unfortunately, it looks like it is not worth repairing. It has a lot of rust on the tubes and frame, so it will be replaced. Last thing I want is for the engine or transmission coils to spring a leak and me not catch it before they pump themselves dry.
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Later this week I go to Commiefornia to work on my M1165. I will be making an Aluminum support to hold generic oil and tranny fluid and power steering fluid coolers.
I’ll post pics when the time comes
No way I’m willing to spend $800-1000 for something I can redesign and build better for $300 max.
I’ll post pics when the time comes
No way I’m willing to spend $800-1000 for something I can redesign and build better for $300 max.
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as I pointed out to you before, you can use an M998 cooler and just add the PS cooler as a second item, the ECV combines all 3 into 1 unit.
you also may want to pay attention to your radiator….it’s most likely not far behind.
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Man that IS ugly
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you have the option of using an m998/A2 cooler and add your own PS cooler, you can also use a REV cooler, but the plumping of hose interface is a bit different.
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So if we are not using the trucks in extreme conditions and high heat, Why is it necessary for an oil cooler? These engines run on the cool side and civy trucks of the day with 6.2 and 6.5 like panel trucks did not have these massive coolers plus no ac condenser in the hmmwv stack like a civy application.
Has anyone just bypassed the cooler and had a line made? What is the down side that anyone that has actually eliminated the cooler run into?
Has anyone just bypassed the cooler and had a line made? What is the down side that anyone that has actually eliminated the cooler run into?
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huh?
im pretty sure coolers aren’t just some afterthought, and diesel engines inherently do not run cool…FYI, it hits 113 degrees in the SF Bay Area where I live in the summer.
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The 6.5L especially the turbo need an oil cooler, those engine have piston cooling jets in the block, it carries away a ton of heat from the pistons via the engine oil. (read like most engines and especially diesel engines the oil IS part of the cooling system)
This is one of the reasons the 6.5L has such low oil pressure, it is normal as they did not originally design the engine with piston coolers.
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Good to know. One issue I’m running into is these coolers are in short supply, so that’s keeping the prices high. Also, a lot of them get damaged in shipping, so several parts houses are selling new u-fix coolers with bent lines. The price reflects the damage, but I don’t really want to have to take a new cooler to the radiator shop to be repaired.
dwoodall95
New member
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Discovered this thread and was crossing my fingers for info. I have an M1123 that threw its serpentine belt and I discovered the alt/ps pump bracket assembly was out of alignment. After pulling it apart found the three bolts into the head loose and almost out and the exhaust stud sheered off. The remains of the stud came right out of the head with no issues but have not found a source or part number for the exhaust manifold stud. Any input?