Steering Drag Link

ssdvc

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OK, did my semi-annual greasing and lube under my M1009, getting her ready for winter. Went to grease up the drag link and noticed it moved quite easily (like lots of play in it). I squeezed some grease into the zerk nearest the steering box and a bunch of water squeezed out before I saw any old grease. I am thinking that is not a good thing and it shouldn't be like that, correct? Everything else appears to be tight.

So, my next questions is this. If one had to choose, would you purchase Moog parts ($46 each at O'Rielly's for each of the ends) or Duralast brand ($35 each end, with a lifetime warranty at Autozone)? Or, perhaps there is another direction I have thought of yet?

Thoughts?
 

ssdvc

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I am hoping replacing these pieces will cure some of the wandering or play in the steering. It's not too bad, but one must pay attention when the lanes get skinny and there is a lot of traffic.
 

SSGTUSMC

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I am hoping replacing these pieces will cure some of the wandering or play in the steering. It's not too bad, but one must pay attention when the lanes get skinny and there is a lot of traffic.
I have the same issues and it's effecting my alignment

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Matt5

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Moog was bought by advance and is junk (used to say made in usa now they all say made in mexico and even look cheaper) MAYBE if you can find old stock... then your better off ...duralast is junk... really its all junk anymore.

That moog part is like $20 on rock auto btw...

lol I'd put a good used one on before buying new or look for a NOS one on ebay... that's me.

when you grease do not OVER grease... you should not be seeing grease come out (yaya old stuff you will this applies to when you get something brand new) just fyi
 

ssdvc

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Matt,

Thanks for that info. And while I can agree that most of the stuff is not made like it used to be, I have used Duralast for several different repairs with few premature failures. And while they may not be the best, the lifetime warranty seems to be worth it, especially if a part does fail and I have to redo it.

I was just checking to see if there is anything better out there, at a reasonable price point. Looking for used tie rod ends doesn't seem to be a wise choice, but I am just an amateur mechanic (if you can call it that).
 

nyoffroad

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I would've gone with Moog, but didn't know about the Mexico thing sooo.. Dura-junk never did much for because who wants to change whatever part every year or two for the next forever? Guess I'd be checking at NAPA.
 

Matt5

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Same issue I have... that lifetime warranty means dick when it leaves you on the side of the road or now you need another alignment for $120...

What did me in was a new fuel pump from advance... (lifetime) it goes bad but its failure mode was actually BLOCKING fuel sometimes... I tore my IP apart thinking it was the fuel shut off that went bad (not to mention that after 2 years the top cover bolts BROKE... compared to the 30 year old pumps that come apart no problem) yes I should have checked for fuel but... the experience was exactly what happened when my cut off went bad... to find out it was the god **** under 2 year old pump...

It now has a used humvee pump on it and I am pretty sure that lifetime pump is in the garbage. I would have bought a new AM general pump but I got the used humvee one free... what is the point if it goes bad in a year?

Ya I mean idk if ALL moog is mexico now but... I've got moog parts that were mexico... IIRC it had a mexico STICKER over the box printed "usa".

I would think you have a good chance of getting old USA stuff with these older trucks but... YMMV.

We have actually put used brake pads on... I am not even kidding because the new ones separated in under a week... (rears blazer).

Different people different opinions... some like the lifetime and don't care if they need to replace it... me... I'll spend $0 and put used on if I can.

Wish I had a better answer for ya OP... lol maybe NAPA as said... OR ask if it is USA or mexico on the box...


I mean not to get too far off topic here but if you know tools "snap on" is the big thing right? LOL garbage even that. Cordless snap on impacts got a rebuild under warranty worked BETTER than new... and, they were used more like a home use not a full blown shop use at all... blue point flash light broke so many times and had to be sent out for repair the dealer sold the new snap on branded one for WAY under the truck price because... missing the tool for a month makes it worthless...

Oh and now... the POS way over priced micro torch ($150 vs power probe at like $40) guess what... DON'T WORK... it is under a year old... and is HARDLY used... after like 20-40 seconds of use... it blows a huge flame and stops working...

and now it has to be "Sent out" to be fixed... so that means... buy 2 power probes and have a spare. GARBAGE... I honestly think we are done with snap on. Too much money for garbage...
 
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cucvrus

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Just replace them with new parts that fit the vehicle. Don't play into this who and where it was made. If it fits and corrects the problem that is all that matters. In all the parts I replace they come from all over the world. They seem to do a good job. What one guy says is junk is another guys best ever. Trust me. If it fits and it corrects the issue and is affordable it is the right part. This has been hashed out from oil filters to oil cooler lines. If the shoe fits wear it. I fixed a lot of vehicles from parts from every store and internet market. People bring me parts I put them on. I do have opinions but most people don't like to hear the part they bought is junk. So I just get what's available at an affordable price and go from there. Good Luck. Most parts are equally comparable/compatible and will do the intended job. Grease and proper maintenance are the key to longevity. Happy Thanksgiving.
 

nyoffroad

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Years ago I rebuilt the front end of my plow truck using mostly all dura last parts, tie rods, ball joints, ectra. That winter was a bad one for snow and I was pileing it up on a curb island in the parking lot I drove a bit farther than I thought and my front end straddled the 'y' shaped island. My tires barely touched the curb and the right tie rod end just ripped right apart! I admit that could have happened with Moog or NAPA but there wasn't hardly even a scuff mark on the tires. So there I was blocking the entrance at 4AM waiting for my son to bring a spare. NO MORE DURA JUNK FOR ME!!!
 

cucvrus

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SSDVC. You can trust my judgement and advise. I wouldn't pat attention to who or where the parts are built. I built your truck and several like it. I have been using parts from all over the world. Brand bashing is as old as Chevy vs Ford. I have fixed $250K trucks that had coolant leaks and transmissions fail. Murphy's Law: Mechanical things will fail. Leakproof seals will. And parts that are manufactured all over the globe and sold by the shipping container are taken and placed in boxes with different names. It happened then and it happens now. Everything has a breaking point. Remember the unbreakable comb when you were a kid. You twisted it back and forth until it broke. The meaning unbreakable had a whole different meaning. But to the young mind it meant Unbreakable. As I grew up and matured I discovered everything has a breaking point. Nothing is infallible and time weathers everything. So if the tie rod ends and draglinks on the M1009 are worn. The time has come to replace them. They are inexpensive trivial things that are standard wear items. And as a precaution I would replace all 4 of them get the front end aligned and move on. If you would like I will go buy them and send them to you in boxes without any names. I could put AC Delco on the boxes, NAPA, NASA, Walmart, Costco whatever brand you want. It will matter very little. They will work and do the job they are designed to do. Up until the time they fail or wear out. I see new trucks with parts that fail. Nothing in life is perfect or with out defect. Nothing. Enjoy your Thanksgiving with your family and buy whatever front end parts you like best. They will be the best I am sure. As long as you get the truck safely back on the road and it serves it's intended purpose safely. Good Luck. No need for mud slinging. I have used and still do buy what is available and many times it won't be what others would do.
 

ridenby

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when you grease do not OVER grease... you should not be seeing grease come out (yaya old stuff you will this applies to when you get something brand new) just fyi
When greasing, you should see old grease/water/dirt purge from the joint. wipe the old off.
 

Matt5

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Well I must say I have *ALWAYS* heard not to over grease, this being said, spicer says for u joints *all* sides should purge grease so.

I am going to have to say he is likely right at least on the u joint end. For quite a while I've always heard that "sealed" units can last longer than grease able now because of over greasing damaging the seals...

Goes to show don't believe everything you hear!
 

ssdvc

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SSDVC. You can trust my judgement and advise. I wouldn't pat attention to who or where the parts are built. I built your truck and several like it. I have been using parts from all over the world. Brand bashing is as old as Chevy vs Ford. I have fixed $250K trucks that had coolant leaks and transmissions fail. Murphy's Law: Mechanical things will fail. Leakproof seals will. And parts that are manufactured all over the globe and sold by the shipping container are taken and placed in boxes with different names. It happened then and it happens now. Everything has a breaking point. Remember the unbreakable comb when you were a kid. You twisted it back and forth until it broke. The meaning unbreakable had a whole different meaning. But to the young mind it meant Unbreakable. As I grew up and matured I discovered everything has a breaking point. Nothing is infallible and time weathers everything. So if the tie rod ends and draglinks on the M1009 are worn. The time has come to replace them. They are inexpensive trivial things that are standard wear items. And as a precaution I would replace all 4 of them get the front end aligned and move on. If you would like I will go buy them and send them to you in boxes without any names. I could put AC Delco on the boxes, NAPA, NASA, Walmart, Costco whatever brand you want. It will matter very little. They will work and do the job they are designed to do. Up until the time they fail or wear out. I see new trucks with parts that fail. Nothing in life is perfect or with out defect. Nothing. Enjoy your Thanksgiving with your family and buy whatever front end parts you like best. They will be the best I am sure. As long as you get the truck safely back on the road and it serves it's intended purpose safely. Good Luck. No need for mud slinging. I have used and still do buy what is available and many times it won't be what others would do.
RGR all Rick and thanks for everyones input. I value it all.

I checked with NAPA today and they have the parts in stock and cheaper than everyone else, so I'll be stopping by after work tomorrow and picking up what I need. Like Rick said, there is very little, if any difference these days in the parts.
 

ssdvc

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OK, went to NAPA, picked up my three parts (ES2026R, ES2027L for the tie rod ends and 2691105 for the sleeve). The tie rods come with a new grease fitting, cotter pin and castle nut. I pre-assembled everything and glad I did. The sleeve was defective from the manufacturer and would not go onto the tie rod end. Went back to NAPA, easy exchange and I was back in the garage in 10 minutes. I think the two hardest parts of the job were, 1- getting those **** cotter pins out and then 2 - getting those tie rod ends loose. Anyway, it took a little bit of time, but all in all it is a fairly straight forward job.

First, I jacked up the front end and put her down on jack stands. I removed the left front wheel. I measured the old set up, grease fitting to grease fitting centerline. Then I turned the wheel all the way to the right so I could get to the rear tie rod end castle nut. I wrestled with those *%@!$# old cotter pins and got those out (hint, cut off the bent end and it will be easy to get out). I then loosened the nuts on the tie rods, and using a pickle fork, I finally convinced each end to let go (it took a few minutes of pounding). I then cleaned up everything under there, including wire brushing any rust and removing all the excess grease.

I took my measurement from the old set up and adjusted the new parts. I then installed them on the truck (I needed two full turns of the sleeve to make the final adjustment and have it possible to drop the tie rod end in). I screwed the castle nuts on hand tight and then tightened up the two sleeve clamps. I then went back and fully tightened the castle nuts on each end, making sure I could align the openings in the nuts with the holes in the tie rod end. Placed the cotter pins in, bent them as appropriate and that was it.

Before I dropped the truck down, I checked (calibrated MK1 Mod 1 eyeball) to see if the wheels were straight and the steering wheel was also centered. It appeared to be, so I dropped the truck and went for a ride.

Man, what a difference a hundred bucks makes. Before I did this, it was challenging to keep the truck in her lane without constant steering corrections, as she had a mind of its own and liked to wander. One really had to pay attention. Now the truck tracks straight and true at 70mph. Second, I no longer have to make constant steering adjustments to keep her on the road. She drives like a new truck now (well, new to me!!).

I am learning that these trucks need just a little bit of attention and maintenance every once in while. Most of it is fairly easy to do and I am no mechanic. I recommend everyone check all their steering components, at least once a year, for any play in any of the joint/connection areas. While she was up in the air I checked it all and then greased it all. No other play was detected. It isn't a hard job to check and not much harder to replace if needed. Plus, the cost of parts isn't very high and it makes the truck handle so much better .................. and safer too !

Cheers !
 

Matt5

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A brand new part was bad? You don't say... I've never heard of that happening... LOL

Last motor mag had a joke on the front page about ordering 4 alternators... 1 wrong 1 defective 1 didn't fit... says "I can't wait to open the 4th" this is not because this has been going on since the start of time... its current parts.


Either way hope they last for you, glad it is fixed... but do this enough, or right before a storm, when the truck is needed and you VERY QUICKLY say "f this new garbage" when brand new parts don't work or fails right away just as you experienced...

See if they last 30 years like the old ones did...
 

cucvrus

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trash.pngThanks for Sharing your POSITIVE post with all. I have over maintained all of my vehicles and equipment all my life. I use things a bit hard at times. But they hold up. My Terminus M1009 stood the test of extra severe abuse and use. It held up. I worked on it a lot but it held up. The best I remember was 17 miles on a set of brakes from new to rivets in the Yankee Lake Ohio sand and mud. Lifetime warranted brakes at that. Above is me paddling thru all the crap to find the truth. Happy Holidays.
 

ssdvc

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Matt,

And I mean this respectfully - Over the years I have had a decent amount of failures right out of the box and that includes MILSPEC items that were fully inspected and sealed prior to shipping. Crap happens my friend. And, if you think a name on a box guarantees a working part, first time every time, you have lead either a fairly lucky or sheltered life. I applaud your success and good fortune.

As far as doing the same repair more than once (I call that honing my limited mechanical skills) or getting stuck in the middle of nowhere or right before (or in) a storm or anything else, I have been there and done that (more than I care to remember)....trust me. Only the ill prepared will have trouble dealing with a situation like that.

OK, time to eat some dinner.
 
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