Stuck open injection pump

[davidkroberts]

Well this has been covered here before and thank you all who told us about this problem. Once we knew what it was it was about a 20 minute fix. Thanks Gimpy and others who contributed. Im just adding pics because i didnt see any when i searched through here.

The first problem we had was the truck started great after sitting for a few months. Once it caught it immediately went into full throttle. Not wanting to blow the motor i pulled the stop engine cable. The truck didnt start again after that. We tracked the problem to the injection pump after verifying the filters and fuel pump were good. Turns out the engine stop lever was jammed in the kill-engine position. After manually pulling the lever back to run and starting the engine again it went back into a runaway diesel situation. We killed the motor again and again it wouldnt start. The cable was jammed again.

Turns out it was the lever that runs into the injection pump behind the engine start cable assembly. The entire assembly needs to be pulled out and seperated and cleaned. The t-bar looking thing in the pictures below needs to be completely disassemled and soaked to remove the trash and coorosion that keeps it from turning freely. Take pictures prior to disassembly because it needs to be reassebled exactly as it came apart. We used Naptha to break everything loose then allowed it to dry then coated everything with WD-40 to remove any trace of junk and naptha. When its reassembled it needs to move very freely with no noticable resistance when we took it off you almost needed a wrench and brace to move it. When removing the assembly the safety wire needs to be cut and the entire thing pulls straight out once the retaining ring is removed.

We reassembled and adjusted the idle once it was running and everything worked great

 

[zeusdaddy]

Dave, I'm having a similar problem with one of the deuces I just picked up from GL. Couldn't get it to start at the GL lot until we gave it a shot of ether (while cranking) - but once started it jumped up to 2000 rpm, so I immediately shut it down with the fuel cut-off lever. Then couldn't get it to start again, so loaded it up on a trailer and brought it home yesterday.

Went out and tried to start it again today - this time without ether - and on the second try it started up but again jumped up to 2000 rpm, so once again I immediately pulled the fuel cut-off and shut it down. Going to try your fix tomorrow and see if that works on mine.

Question though - I understand the fuel cut-off sticking in the closed position causing the no-start problem, but what is it about the dirty, gunked up lever in the IP that causes the runaway idle? Guess I'm just trying to understand the mechanics of the IP here - can you help?

Thanks in advance!

 

[gimpyrobb]

Dave is out of town right now so I'll try to answer. That lever needs to float forward and backward loosely. If it can't you get the situation where it sticks WFO or no-go. All the way toward the firewall is the "off" position, all the way forward(toward the radiator) is wide open. It needs to be able to float back and forth to work correctly.

 

[zeusdaddy]

Got it - thanks gimpyrobb!

 

[poppop]

When you shut the engine down the governor pulls the rack wide open to try and stay running. It then sticks there and so runs wide open when started next time. I had a tractor engine do that on first start up after rebuild. It had sat for a while and the rack stuck wide open. The engine kill would not shut it down so finally knocked the fuel filters off to kill it. That made for a very exciting three or four minutes. All my friends present ran and left me with it.

 

[Floridianson]

Don't think that is what happens. If the Gov tryed to kick in and keep it running it would not shut down on the Deuce. After shut down then it trys to kicks in and when you push the shut down back in to start the fuel rod goes to the froward pisition adding fuel to start. Here is where it sticks and stays there till you pull the shut down cable.

When the spring/Gov can not overcome the stuck fuel lever after shut down this is where we get the not start problem and same fix. Free up fuel control shaft.

 

[mhassett]

Dave;
Same problem.
Clean and re-assembled.
MHassett

 

[zeusdaddy]

Well - pulled the lever assembly and it was definitely gunked up to the point that it was very difficult to move as Dave described. Got it all cleaned up nicely (moves very easily now) and reassembled (exactly as it looked in the pictures I took when I pulled it out) but no matter how hard I try I can't seem to get the assembly to fully re-seat back into the hole in the injection pump. Did any of you have any difficulty getting the assembly back in correctly?

I'm pretty sure the problem has to do with the position of the tiny paint-brush shaped pin at the rear of the assembly. From the pics I took before dis-assembly, the "brush" part of the pin should be in a vertical position when reinserted into the hole but it just doesn't want to go all the way in. Tried turning the brush part of the pin to a horizontal position but still no go. Any tips or suggestions?

Also, once everything is reassembled and back in position and the retaining ring is tightened down, I assume the lever assembly should move freely - correct?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yup, it all should moved freely. If you look into the hole it came out of, there is a metal block with a groove in it that - that "paintbrush" needs to line up with. The paintbrush should be parallel with the ground when you insert the assembly in the hole. I wish I had my pics on this PC.

 

[Floridianson]

Try and move the leaver as you install it to see if you can get it to line up and yes horz pisition to install.
You can also try and see if your collor is moving free before you install the control leaver.

 

[Farmun]

Looks like this operation is in my future. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but does the plunger end of the cable push or pull against the bottom "dowel" of the outside piece (the one going vertical)? Does that make sense?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Not real clear on your question, but the run/stop attached to the pull cable is not always in contact with the part people are removing to clean. Imagine a thimble laying down. When the handle is pulled out, just the rim of the top(of the thimble) touches the lever. When you release the pull cable, the thimble moves forward and doesn't touch anything. Thats why sometimes the truck doesn't start, the lever is stuck backward in the "off" position.

 

[Floridianson]

It was in his pic. See the fuel shut down head catches the fuel leaver tit in black. The space in red is the free travel when the fuel shut off is in the off pisitoin and allows the fuel rod to move free in this space.
The fuel control tit is blue.
When shut down is pulled it overpowers gov/spring and pulls fuel control back.

 

[Floridianson]

sorry forgot to add pic.

 

[flyxpl]

after not starting my A2 for about 18 months , I am having this problem . Hopefully the directions and pics hear will help me through it .

 

[flyxpl]

Fixed . Mine was binding on the inner shaft . I had to take the nut off and knock the arm off the splined shaft and pull the shaft out of the part that bolts to the housing . Once apart it looked clean as a whistle ,but I wiped it with my fingers and temporarily put the shaft back in and it was loose again .Put a little lube on it and put back together . Idles fine now .

 

[Lonesome715]

I was in the process of pulling my injection pump when I ran into a few problems. So I logged on here to find a thread on injection pump removal but found this thread instead. This is the problem I am having and was told the UP is bad. Teh issue is my IP looks different from the one in the photographs. Could my run away engine problem be something else?

 

[Lonesome715]

Never mind, I got it apart. I hope this is the problem. I sure do not want to pull the IP off.

 

[olly69]

Well - pulled the lever assembly and it was definitely gunked up to the point that it was very difficult to move as Dave described. Got it all cleaned up nicely (moves very easily now) and reassembled (exactly as it looked in the pictures I took when I pulled it out) but no matter how hard I try I can't seem to get the assembly to fully re-seat back into the hole in the injection pump. Did any of you have any difficulty getting the assembly back in correctly?

I'm pretty sure the problem has to do with the position of the tiny paint-brush shaped pin at the rear of the assembly. From the pics I took before dis-assembly, the "brush" part of the pin should be in a vertical position when reinserted into the hole but it just doesn't want to go all the way in. Tried turning the brush part of the pin to a horizontal position but still no go. Any tips or suggestions?

Also, once everything is reassembled and back in position and the retaining ring is tightened down, I assume the lever assembly should move freely - correct?

I am in the same situation, but thanks to all you guys, I got it running yesterday#@! What all you guys keep saying is that the lever that the shut off cable pulls gets gunked up. So I took the u-block off (that holds the lever in) and it would then pivot like it supposed to, or at least I thought. But upon further review, I took the lever out, and had to take the nut off the lever, and take the remainder apart. I had to polish it up with 1500 sand paper to free it up. (it had sat unstarted about a year). Put it all back together and it fired right up and ran. THANKS SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP!

 

[rustystud]

I am in the same situation, but thanks to all you guys, I got it running yesterday#@! What all you guys keep saying is that the lever that the shut off cable pulls gets gunked up. So I took the u-block off (that holds the lever in) and it would then pivot like it supposed to, or at least I thought. But upon further review, I took the lever out, and had to take the nut off the lever, and take the remainder apart. I had to polish it up with 1500 sand paper to free it up. (it had sat unstarted about a year). Put it all back together and it fired right up and ran. THANKS SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP!View attachment 749785

OK, you "NEVER" want to sand or polish this shaft. It is a machined ground fit from the factory. If it gets too loose the fuel will come out this shaft. There is no 'O' ring or anything but the extreme tight tolerances to keep the fuel in. You can disassembly the unit and "clean" it with some lacquer thinner or something along those lines, but never remove material from it.