Stuck shutoff plunger

[Banshee365]

Hey fellas! I would research this subject for hours or days if I had the time. I am closing on the sale of my farm TODAY and have another 3 days to get everything off the property. One of the last things left is my deuce. It hasn't ran in a couple years and I'm finishing up refreshing the fuel system.

I pulled the shutoff cover to check for the freedom of movement and it was pretty well locked up. I removed the lever and got it nice and free without even taking it apart. The shutoff plunger, however, is frozen solid. The lever, when reinstalled, still has a limited range of movement. I think this is just the slop with the key in the shutoff plunger groove. I sprayed some penetrant in there and some WD40 as well and it still frozen.

What is the best course of action to get it running quickly? I haven't started to pull the HH yet as I don't know if that is going to be required. I havn't checked the action of the plunger under the cap on the HH as I'm concerned with the shutoff plunger at the moment.

Thanks fellas!

 

[Floridianson]

Yep one of the few times the plunger sleeve is stuck on the plunger. You might be able to get a flat blade screwdriver in the plunger sleeve slot and sea if you can just work it a bit to get it free. If not then Head removal looks like is on the work order. Might need something stronger sprayed in there to clean the tarnish. Like techron or sea foam.

 

[dmetalmiki]

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?69241-Removing-rebuilding-reinstalling-Hydraulic-Head

 

[Banshee365]

The head is off. The inside of the ports were filled with nasty brown fuel. I'm glad I pulled it. I have to have the truck off the property in a couple days so I suppose I'll be overnighting a set of o-rings. The original plan was to just clean it up and throw it back together to get it off the property then remove it again to replace the o-rings. That seems a bit silly with the work involved to get it off.

At this point I suppose it will be best to clean the lines and fittings between the secondary/final filter housing to the hydraulic head so ensure the fuel is totally clean. There is nasty fuel with algae everywhere. I'll run a good concentration of fuel system cleaner in the tank so the filters should catch most of the gook. But from the filters to the head better be clean.

The shutoff block is seized on the plunger shaft. The plunger still rotates but it's binding a bit. I'll soak it in Kroil overnight before taking it apart.

Is it worth taking all of the machining plugs and stuff off to clean? What about that 12 pt bolt? I saw on a video or something that that bolt likes to break.

 

[rustystud]

The head is off. The inside of the ports were filled with nasty brown fuel. I'm glad I pulled it. I have to have the truck off the property in a couple days so I suppose I'll be overnighting a set of o-rings. The original plan was to just clean it up and throw it back together to get it off the property then remove it again to replace the o-rings. That seems a bit silly with the work involved to get it off.

At this point I suppose it will be best to clean the lines and fittings between the secondary/final filter housing to the hydraulic head so ensure the fuel is totally clean. There is nasty fuel with algae everywhere. I'll run a good concentration of fuel system cleaner in the tank so the filters should catch most of the gook. But from the filters to the head better be clean.

The shutoff block is seized on the plunger shaft. The plunger still rotates but it's binding a bit. I'll soak it in Kroil overnight before taking it apart.

Is it worth taking all of the machining plugs and stuff off to clean? What about that 12 pt bolt? I saw on a video or something that that bolt likes to break.

Depending on how much "gunk" you have in the Hydraulic Head would determine if the plugs need to come out. They can be really stuck in there along with the 12 point bolt. So if you don't need to remove them, don't.
I removed them on all my rebuilds just to be sure every surface was clean and rust free. The 12 point bolt can be a problem, but if you take care and thoroughly clean it and the mounting surface it will be fine. At least that way you would know for sure there was no gunk hidden behind the relief spring, and the valve was working freely.

 

[Floridianson]

Yes tear that head all the way down, all ports even the plunger when you can get the plunger sleeve freed up. The delivery valve 12 point on the side of the head is not real tight. Hopefully you already removed the center top plug from the head before you removed the head from the IP as that one is put on at 50 foot pounds. Remove the cap off the overflow valve and clean that valve and seat too. When all is said and done/ cleaned the plunger sleeve should float free enough on the plunger so when you turn the head upside down the plunger sleeve will fall on it's own.