Stuck tie rod ends

[Thunderbirds]

Hey all,


We had the M1123 out for a drive for the very first time yesterday, put about 30 miles on it (after getting Progressive insurance confirmed, great rate BTW).

The truck drove great and better than we expected, but steering was a b*tch. The tires squealed like I was driving through a parkhouse at a high rate of speed, and it bounced a bit in turns. So, once we came back I checked alignment. The front measurement between tread centers was 67.75". The rear was 72.5". Some serious toe in. Then I tried to adjust the tie rods, but they seemed pretty stuck (for the doubters, yes I did loosen the clamps all the way). So I removed them from the truck, only to confirm, boots on two ends are shot. And the ends are completely seized, there is no turning despite soaking for 24 hours, heat and 24" cheater pipe. I am not able to turn them at all.

I priced new rod ends and complete tie rods. Seems like I can get 4 ends for close to $200, but two complete tie rod with ends will be over $400. So I am trying to save the tie rods and replace only the 4 ends if at all possible. Problem is they are seized.

Is there a decent way to get the ends out without destroying the tie rods, or do you think it is a lost cause? Is it with taking them to an automotive shop to see if they can do magic?

Any help is appreciated.........

 

[Coug]

When mine were stuck, it was alternating heat and penetrating oil, followed by wrenching on it. Les Schwab tried to do it, using heat, and it didn't break free, but after I got home the heat and oil (while it's still hot so it sucks the oil in while it cools, and also provides some thermal shock to it).

Just have to keep at it until it loosens up, or give up and spend the money

 

[TOBASH]

Loosen the bolts and make sure brackets are loose.

Muriotic acid 1:3 ratio. At least two hours.

Then wash and place in oven at 200 degrees for an hour to remove the acid. Then penetrating oil and heat alternately.

 

[thompsoncustom]

If heat doesn't do it I think I would cut the tie rod end off here.



After the end is off slip a nut over it and weld it on from the inside of the nut, then you can use a impact on it after you heat it back up again.

 

[TNDRIVER]

Hey all,


We had the M1123 out for a drive for the very first time yesterday, put about 30 miles on it (after getting Progressive insurance confirmed, great rate BTW).

The truck drove great and better than we expected, but steering was a b*tch. The tires squealed like I was driving through a parkhouse at a high rate of speed, and it bounced a bit in turns. So, once we came back I checked alignment. The front measurement between tread centers was 67.75". The rear was 72.5". Some serious toe in. Then I tried to adjust the tie rods, but they seemed pretty stuck (for the doubters, yes I did loosen the clamps all the way). So I removed them from the truck, only to confirm, boots on two ends are shot. And the ends are completely seized, there is no turning despite soaking for 24 hours, heat and 24" cheater pipe. I am not able to turn them at all.

I priced new rod ends and complete tie rods. Seems like I can get 4 ends for close to $200, but two complete tie rod with ends will be over $400. So I am trying to save the tie rods and replace only the 4 ends if at all possible. Problem is they are seized.

Is there a decent way to get the ends out without destroying the tie rods, or do you think it is a lost cause? Is it with taking them to an automotive shop to see if they can do magic?

Any help is appreciated.........

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Try a "tie rod wrench" that looks like a funky letter C. It works in the split at the end of the rod. OTC makes a decent set. I'm not a fan of the "pipe wrench" types.

 

[Dieselmeister]

Are you applying enough heat? There is way too much paint left in the pictures. All that paint and the boots should be toast.

 

[Mogman]

Actually it does not look like the clamp nut has even been touched

 

[Thunderbirds]

Are you applying enough heat? There is way too much paint left in the pictures. All that paint and the boots should be toast.

Hey all,

late posting tonight, but good news. I did get them lose, adjusted and reinstalled.

Dieselmeister, you are correct, if I had the right torch all the paint would have been burnt off. I only had the propane and Butane bottle that one uses for copper pipe soldering. It barely got stuff hot enough, definitely not glowing hot. By now 80% of the paint is scraped and burned off.

Actually it does not look like the clamp nut has even been touched

The pics are deceiving, that is what it looks like for sure, hence my note in the original post, (for the doubters, yes I did loosen the clamps all the way) " I just left them in place so I can get a wrench on the rod end and clamp the rod in the vice.

Turns out, all I needed was a combination of three brands of penetrating oil (PB Blaster, SeaFoam, and Superzilla), the heat that the propane bottle gave out, and a 24" pipe wrench. I got them lose using my "household" vice and tools. I was able to get them completely loosened at work with a more industrial vice and a 30" pipe wrench today.

I gave it 3 1/2 rotations on both side to get me within tolerance. Tomorrow we see how it looks after a 10 mile or so test drive.

But here is the kicker story...

While adjusting I was baffled that turning the rod in either direction, I was not making any difference in length. So weird. Upon closer inspection, I found that one rod had two left hand threaded and the other rod had the right hand threaded ends installed. If you are anything like me, you will maybe think, that isn't even possible, the rod itself is threaded r/h on one side, l/h on the other. A normal mechanic won't even get the wrong threaded end to go into the rod with the opposite threaded direction. Right? So I am completely miffed and baffled. Never would I have thought that is possible. But here is the proof anything is possible with the Marine Corp motorpool.

Please correct my thinking if I am off, but this is crazy. Looks like I will end up buying two complete tie rods after all. I wish I could find decent used ones instead of shelling out good $$$ for brand new ones for a 25 year old truck. Time will tell.

This is what I love about you guys, no drama, just encouraging words and suggestions. I appreciate all and everyone's input.

 

[Thunderbirds]

I'm up a bit earlier today to get a start on the workday, just taking a minute to reflect on the weirdness and

Here is the difference between my home setup up (for the weekend mechanic-warrior) and the work shop set up.



How would one get a r/h threaded piece in a l/h threaded pipe? I had to check myself again to make sure I am not misunderstanding the directions in my brain, but one rod still has the part number tags on the ends, they are both the same! the next pics are the driver side rod ends.

Outboard side:





Inboard side:



Maybe that is the whole culprit why I had to use such an ungodly amount of force? And what did it take to embed the rod ends into the sleeve?

I sound like a broken record, but I can't get over the situation.

Thanks again to all suggestions and help!

 

[Dieselmeister]

I would almost bet "they" bent the rod ends wide open, and just pushed in the wrong ends, then clamped the hell out of them. No worries about cross threading anything, just "compression fit" everything. Curious, what did the threads look like after you got them apart?

 

[Thunderbirds]

I would almost bet "they" bent the rod ends wide open, and just pushed in the wrong ends, then clamped the hell out of them. No worries about cross threading anything, just "compression fit" everything. Curious, what did the threads look like after you got them apart?

That is the only way it’s possible… the threads on the ends were flawless. And i was able to unscrew them, so the rod sleeves must be rethreaded by clamping down that much. I didn’t separate them all the way to inspect the inside of the sleeves. Maybe when the new tie rods ever come in, I will.