• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Stumped...

D

DokWatson

New member
359
0
0
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
My blower motor never worked, decided to replace it. Replaced my blower motor, I get power to the plug that goes onto the motor itself...nothing. Doesn't turn on at all. Is it a bad ground? Where is the blower motor grounded?

:lost:
 
D

DokWatson

New member
359
0
0
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
I just found an orange wire not connected to anything, when I touched it to a 12v power source...the motor worked. I can't figure out where this is supposed to be attached.
 
66Reo6X6

66Reo6X6

New member
287
0
0
Location
Velva, North Dakota
TM 9-2320-361-20 page FP-1 wiring diagram shows two wires on the heater fan motor. It doesn't give colors but shows one used as a quote ( ground lead to chassis body or engine, bolted connection)

Hope this helps.
 
D

DokWatson

New member
359
0
0
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
66Reo6X6 said:
TM 9-2320-361-20 page FP-1 wiring diagram shows two wires on the heater fan motor. It doesn't give colors but shows one used as a quote ( ground lead to chassis body or engine, bolted connection)

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I've looked at all the diagrams. I have it grounded. It doesn't have an extra orange wire anywhere in the diagrams though... so confused :shock:
 
rlwm211

rlwm211

Active member
1,648
18
38
Location
Guilford, NY
check the blower switch first

The switch may be the culprit. The switch provides power to the blower through the resistor until you ask for High speed wich should be operated by a relay. I would make sure there is power to the switch and then from the switch to the plug that connects to the multiple tap resistor.

The wire you show may be from a failed fusible link in the harness. The wiring diagram should show all the power connections in the harness and will specify colors.

Hope this helps

RL
 
Warthog

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,775
227
63
Location
OKC, OK
66Reo6X6 said:
TM 9-2320-361-20 page FP-1 wiring diagram shows two wires on the heater fan motor. It doesn't give colors but shows one used as a quote ( ground lead to chassis body or engine, bolted connection)

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Why would you use the TM 9-2320-361-20 Deuce wiring diagram on a CUCV?

The correct manual is the TM 9-2320-289-20 or the TM 9-2320-289-34. The diagram for the heater is in the appendix F-20 or the E-20.

The heater circuit uses the top fuse. The brown wire feeds the heater switch and three wires go to the blower motor resistor. High is orange, medium is light blue and low is yellow. From the resistor, an oragne wire feeds the correct voltage to the blower.

There is a capasitor/suppressor in the feed wire. It takes out the noise for the Military radios. They have been known to go bad.

The blower itself is grounded thru the housing.

Looking at your picture, it looks like the orange wire 2-ORN-52A has broken between the blower switch and the resistor. You will need to find the other end.

Also I am confused. You say you have power at the fan but it doesn't run, but you also say when you hooked the orange wire up the fan ran. Please clarify


Right click on the thumbnail and choose "Open Link in New Window"
 

Attachments

Last edited:
NPD732

NPD732

New member
54
1
0
Location
Chesapeake VA
You have the arctic heater kit installed on your truck. The orange wire in your hand is the original power lead to the blower. According to the installation instructions the plug is cut off and the wire is taped back to the harness. A short extension harness is plugged into the original blower resistor plug and extends the wiring over to the new blower resistor. A new orange wire comes off of that harness and plugs into the blower motor. Make sure the extension harness is plugged into the old resistor connector correctly. There is not a male plug on the end, just 3 male spade terminals. Easy for it to make poor contact or have crossed wires.


Check for 12v on the cut orange wire in your hand with the blower swirch on, if you have power the problem is in the extension harness, if not check your blower switch and fuse.


FYI the arctic kit blower and squirrel cage is not the same as the rest of the cucvs. It spins the opposite direction. 84 s-10 without a/c should be the correct motor if i remember.
 
Last edited:
D

DokWatson

New member
359
0
0
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
NPD732 said:
You have the arctic heater kit installed on your truck. The orange wire in your hand is the original power lead to the blower. According to the installation instructions the plug is cut off and the wire is taped back to the harness. A short extension harness is plugged into the original blower resistor plug and extends the wiring over to the new blower resistor. A new orange wire comes off of that harness and plugs into the blower motor. Make sure the extension harness is plugged into the old resistor connector correctly. There is not a male plug on the end, just 3 male spade terminals. Easy for it to make poor contact or have crossed wires.


Check for 12v on the cut orange wire in your hand with the blower swirch on, if you have power the problem is in the extension harness, if not check your blower switch and fuse.


FYI the arctic kit blower and squirrel cage is not the same as the rest of the cucvs. It spins the opposite direction. 84 s-10 without a/c should be the correct motor if i remember.
Click to expand...
That makes more sense, thanks. I might re-wire it the original way. I don't use the winterization kit, it doesn't work either.

I got a non a/c motor, should be ok.
 
Warthog

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,775
227
63
Location
OKC, OK
NPD732 said:
You have the arctic heater kit installed on your truck. The orange wire in your hand is the original power lead to the blower. According to the installation instructions the plug is cut off and the wire is taped back to the harness. A short extension harness is plugged into the original blower resistor plug and extends the wiring over to the new blower resistor. A new orange wire comes off of that harness and plugs into the blower motor. Make sure the extension harness is plugged into the old resistor connector correctly. There is not a male plug on the end, just 3 male spade terminals. Easy for it to make poor contact or have crossed wires.


Check for 12v on the cut orange wire in your hand with the blower swirch on, if you have power the problem is in the extension harness, if not check your blower switch and fuse.


FYI the arctic kit blower and squirrel cage is not the same as the rest of the cucvs. It spins the opposite direction. 84 s-10 without a/c should be the correct motor if i remember.
Click to expand...
Great catch. I have never seen the Artic Kit before. :beer:

Please disregard my other post. :)
 
JAsher45

JAsher45

New member
192
1
0
Location
Redfield, Iowa
i ran into a similar problem last year on my 1009. i replaced the swithc twice, the resistor, the blower. i was getting 12v to the blower and nothing. the wire from the fuse panel to the switch had fried.. was still sending volts but not enough current AMPS to make the blower spin. i replaced the wire from the fuse panel to the switch with some new heavier wire and problem solved2cents
 
D

DokWatson

New member
359
0
0
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
Stihl029 said:
Here is a link to the artic blower, i went down that road last year. the reason it is so loud too is that the motor is blowing backwards.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/28163-heater-blower-motor.html
Click to expand...
Got mine from car quest, I did specify non-ac K30 blower motor... should be rotating the correct way. Now its just a matter of wiring I think, I even messed with the switch today and still nothing. Going to take it to my buddies shop next week, I'm not sure what else I can do without a garage to work in... its getting cold.
 
S

Stihl029

New member
112
0
0
Location
Kodiak, AK
Hey Dok are you on alaska 4x4 network? there are some of us up here that have cucv's on the site. the wiring is pretty simple. do you have a volt meter? simpson, fluke, or any other volt meter? Yeah i here ya on it getting colder. I have been starting my truck early just to de ice the window in the morning. none of the white stuff below 2000 feet yet.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
108,610members
163,859threads
2,305,326posts
705online users
Top