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Subframe question

Kevin Means

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We're building up our 1998 M1083, and plan to use a spring-return subframe with a composite box. I was watching a youtube video recently, where a couple stopped and parked their Unimog in high winds. (The Unimog also had a spring-return subframe) The winds were so strong that you could see the habitat rocking back and forth in the wind - similarly to what you'd see a subframe doing while driving on uneven terrain, The couple inside said it was like riding in a boat in rough seas. I started wondering if that rocking motion also occurs while driving in windy conditions. Has anyone experienced that?

Kevin
 

aw113sgte

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We're building up our 1998 M1083, and plan to use a spring-return subframe with a composite box. I was watching a youtube video recently, where a couple stopped and parked their Unimog in high winds. (The Unimog also had a spring-return subframe) The winds were so strong that you could see the habitat rocking back and forth in the wind - similarly to what you'd see a subframe doing while driving on uneven terrain, The couple inside said it was like riding in a boat in rough seas. I started wondering if that rocking motion also occurs while driving in windy conditions. Has anyone experienced that?

Kevin
Being that it's a unimog I wouldn't be surprised if it has one of those torsionless subframes. Post up the video and we can take a look and see if there's other information to get from it.
I've not heard any issues with people with spring captive subframe mounts.
 

AKPacker

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I experienced ~40mph crosswinds when I drove across South Dakota and Montana last summer and I was amazed at how solid my M1079 was. Probably a combination of the weight and stiff suspension, but my truck didn't rock and I had no problems keeping in my lane through the gusts.
 

Ronmar

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Yea that sounds weird. Perhaps they did not have enough/any spring preload... I am also not sure how "noodly" the unimog frame is... if they have springs pre-loaded they would have to apply enough force to further compress them or the frame would have to twist to allow the hab to move...
 

GeneralDisorder

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Sounds like it was poorly engineered - probably not a factory or commercial/military habitat. TONS of builders out there and probably MOST don't know how to do this the right way.

(genuine) M1079's and M1087's do NOT have that problem. Moving or stationary.

Now some aftermarket habitat on a Mog..... they are known for their frame flex and articulation so doesn't surprise me that it handles like a garbage scow.

Same goes for an aftermarket hab on an MTV..... engineering required. Though these tend to not have that problem as the FMTV is larger with stiffer suspension than the Mog.

Copy what the military did and you'll be fine. Everything else is really just a cheaper imitation. Guys make all kinds of excuses but it comes down to availability and price. If they were a dime a dozen literally everyone would just start with a military habitat. But smart people are good at finding dumb reasons to support the decisions they make and people are cheap and impatient at their core so you see ALL levels of stupidity being applied to this (solved, many decades ago) "problem".
 
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Keith Knight

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That looks like vehicle suspension flexing allowing the movement.
We’ve camped in very similar situations in our 1079 with 60-70 mph gusts and we barely feel it. If you can predict the wind direction we’ve pointed the vehicle into the wind to help.
Honestly I’ve stepped out of the vehicle many times while the suspension is twisted up and I’ve never seen a gap where the habitat spring mounts are.
 

Ronmar

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Well not knowing how their box is connected, hard to tell what was actually moving. Moving around on my frame, I have noticed quite a lot of movement from the tires themselves.
 
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Ronmar

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We're building up our 1998 M1083, and plan to use a spring-return subframe with a composite box. I was watching a youtube video recently, where a couple stopped and parked their Unimog in high winds. (The Unimog also had a spring-return subframe) The winds were so strong that you could see the habitat rocking back and forth in the wind - similarly to what you'd see a subframe doing while driving on uneven terrain, The couple inside said it was like riding in a boat in rough seas. I started wondering if that rocking motion also occurs while driving in windy conditions. Has anyone experienced that?

Kevin
Yea the subframe is supposed to allow the box to move when the frame twists.

The thing about captured spring is that they WILL impart stress on the box, and the box must be either designed to flex, or deal with this stress and transfer the force into the springs. Think of it like a 3 point mount, attached solid at 2 points on one end, and the third point pivots at the other to allow the frame to twist. Except in the case of a captured spring, that 3rd pivot point shifts between the two frame rails, with the box being lifted up and “pivoting” by whichever frame rail is twisting upward. So the box must be able to deal with being lifted under one frame rail at one end of the box without undue stress or deformation.

At the same time however, as the other frame rail goes down it pulls downward on the box over/above that frame rail thru the springs. And springs doing what they do, this force becomes greater and greater as the frame rail twists down and away.

so in addition to being able to be lifted at one end frame rail location, the box must also withstand the downforce of the springs on the other side…

composite boxes are great, but they tend to be weaker at the seams and corners and do not typically deal with twist very well, which is why a zero torsion 3 or 4 point mount is usually recommended…

i am using captured spring, with a twist, in that I am using hydraulics instead of springs. That way I can tune the force required initially, and maintain a mostly constant force for several inches of travel. IE: more initial force than I could comfortably get out of a spring, but with no increase in force beyond that if I really twist the frame(don't see that happening all that often though). the hydraulics will also allow me to tune the return force to provide some dampening to resist rocking, instead of releasing energy back into the motion as a spring is released.

i am also building the habitat like a ships hull with 1/8X3” ribs and 14ga stressed skin… using the upper frame rail as the floor frame, will give me a 6” tapering to 3” floor, 3” walls and a 3 up to 4” ceiling… projected all up weight will be ~20K pounds which should give me pretty decent balance between the axle weights, which is something you need to pay attention to if running CTIS applying the same pressure to all the tires…
 
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Third From Texas

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I can only speak to the OEM M1079 captured spring system on my hab.

I live on the coast in S.Tx and it blows 25mph on a normal day. We get frontal systems all spring and most of the winter and I've traveled up thru the hill country almost year-round.

Granted, my hab is only 12.5' x 8' so it's not as large as one might equip on an M1083. But I never had any sort of issue while in motion. And that's going down the highway at 60mph often with 40mph head/tail/cross winds. No issue at all (at least nothing close to what my old 18' '73 Winnebago Brave encountered....which was always battle to drive in the wind).

Parked on the island, I'm frequently in 30mph+ conditions in the spring and winters and inside the had I can feel it move, but only slightly. I'd not say like a boat in rough seas, more akin to a boat docked in a stiff breeze. For parked situations, I'm just going to add some corner jackstands. But I do think that the hab is articulating on it's springs in certain windy conditions when parked.
 

Reworked LMTV

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We're building up our 1998 M1083, and plan to use a spring-return subframe with a composite box. I was watching a youtube video recently, where a couple stopped and parked their Unimog in high winds. (The Unimog also had a spring-return subframe) The winds were so strong that you could see the habitat rocking back and forth in the wind - similarly to what you'd see a subframe doing while driving on uneven terrain, The couple inside said it was like riding in a boat in rough seas. I started wondering if that rocking motion also occurs while driving in windy conditions. Has anyone experienced that?

Kevin
Many variables here, but You should be fine.
 

Ronmar

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I took a few minutes and looked back at their build series. They show the subframe assembly in their 2nd build video. It is a 4 point zero torsion, clamped to a cross tube in the middle with pivots in the same plane front and rear. With some video of him pushing on the box, it is quite rigid with the chassis but the suspension moves pretty easy. The movement they were experiencing in the wind was mostly all suspension and tire IMO..
 

dwlindsey

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i am also building the habitat like a ships hull with 1/8X3” ribs and 14ga stressed skin… using the upper frame rail as the floor frame, will give me a 6” tapering to 3” floor, 3” walls and a 3 up to 4” ceiling… projected all up weight will be ~20K pounds which should give me pretty decent balance between the axle weights, which is something you need to pay attention to if running CTIS applying the same pressure to all the tires…
I'm curious about your "14ga stressed skin". Aluminum? How are you applying it? How does it get stressed?
 

Ronmar

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I'm curious about your "14ga stressed skin". Aluminum? How are you applying it? How does it get stressed?
Stressed skin as in the skin carries part of the structural load. An old school frame and fabric aircraft has a frame structure that carries the load and a non structural aerodynamic skin. a ship or a typical metal aircraft uses a rib and stringer structure with a heavier rigid skin attached rigidly to the framework. The combination shares the structural load between the framework and the skin. the term is semi-monocoque.

That is what I am building, rigid 1/8" X 3" steel rib and stringer frame with a 14ga(.075") steel skin welded to the ribs. very similar to a ships hull turned upside down... If I have done my math/engineering correctly, this in conjunction with a similar floor structure but using 1/4" ribs, that is built around the upper LMTV frame rail structure(6" thick in the middle 1/3, tapering to 3" thick at the edge), should give me a box rigid enough to handle the main frame twisting away from the floor frame.

This is the first build where my only weight concern is that I may not be adding enough:). I started with a M1079 bare cab and chassis, and I estimate that I need to add ~6000# to achieve axle balance, and my steel so far totals to around 4200#...
 

dwlindsey

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That is what I am building, rigid 1/8" X 3" steel rib and stringer frame with a 14ga(.075") steel skin welded to the ribs. very similar to a ships hull turned upside down...
Cool

I'll be building on the M1088 A1 that I'm now working on. The current idea is a tubular steel frame. I haven't decided on the skin yet, but I'm considering the aluminum that Oscar Overlander used. He bonded it on with Sikaflex.
 

Ronmar

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Cool

I'll be building on the M1088 A1 that I'm now working on. The current idea is a tubular steel frame. I haven't decided on the skin yet, but I'm considering the aluminum that Oscar Overlander used. He bonded it on with Sikaflex.
Yep, and if the tubular frame is strong enough, like the tube and fabric airplane, the skin can be a lot of things. if the frame spacing isn't too great, a good Sikaflex bond will actually provide a bit of shear resistance, depending on how thick the skin is i suppose.

If i recall that is how Bliss Mobile builds theirs, heavy steel perimeter frame with fiberglass/foam panels filling the gaps. I like this type structure as it also allows more places to tie a heavy structure such as a spare tire carrier into reliably...

I originally worked up my plan using 16 ga skin and 14ga ribs, but somewhere in there i realized how far out my axle balance was going to be, I shifted over to 14ga skin and 1/8" ribs, which helped make up the difference. It will be less prone to wrinkles/provide a stronger stress path, and is easier/more forgiving to weld, especially the seams...
 
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