Two group 31AGMs from batteries plus. $265 each. 4yr replacement. I bought them cause of the warranty. I run just two in most of my big stuff.
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suitable battery replacement for M1088
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Ronmar
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A pair of group 27’s or 31’s wherever it is at… if I am concerned with starting in the cold, i will take steps to mitigate that instead of oversizing the battery.
Cat specs a pair of 31’s for the equipment that uses these engines…
The problem with 4 batteries is that they are difficult to keep charged, and since they are oversized for the alternator, the alternator has to run for extended periods at max load…
for whatever you choose for batteries, unless this is your daily driver a maintainer is recommended…
You have to be careful with AGM’s. Because of their internal resistance, They require/draw nearly twice the bulk charge current as regular lead acids if you let them get discharged. A pair of 100AH AGM’s will put you right close to the alternator limit with the lights off...
Cat specs a pair of 31’s for the equipment that uses these engines…
The problem with 4 batteries is that they are difficult to keep charged, and since they are oversized for the alternator, the alternator has to run for extended periods at max load…
for whatever you choose for batteries, unless this is your daily driver a maintainer is recommended…
You have to be careful with AGM’s. Because of their internal resistance, They require/draw nearly twice the bulk charge current as regular lead acids if you let them get discharged. A pair of 100AH AGM’s will put you right close to the alternator limit with the lights off...
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Can anyone provide a wiring diagram for a 2 battery set up….thanks all 1078A0
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A whole lot of this truck battery thing depends on all the connections and the wire
used to the connections. The lugs connections should be like clean, new, torqued,
as original. If all the wires and connections are not as New, attempting to say what
is best for you is a crapshoot.
Take all connections off, and refurbish them so as to be NEW. Especially the grounds.
You can always put 3/0 new wire to everything, dosen't cost much. See the classifieds.
These are not simple normal cars, They need refurbishment after many years of use.
I just an old guy but that is my view of it. ...........................
used to the connections. The lugs connections should be like clean, new, torqued,
as original. If all the wires and connections are not as New, attempting to say what
is best for you is a crapshoot.
Take all connections off, and refurbish them so as to be NEW. Especially the grounds.
You can always put 3/0 new wire to everything, dosen't cost much. See the classifieds.
These are not simple normal cars, They need refurbishment after many years of use.
I just an old guy but that is my view of it. ...........................
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and this 24v positive terminal was melted in the opposite side...where can I find a replacement cable (complete) or at least the correct terminal end?
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Exact specifications are normally in the TM's
That is one ugly picture of battery terminal you got there.
Say what vehical it is so You may get help, It aint difficult, but that is ugly.
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M1078 TM's
Listed below are a number of the TM's for the M1078 trucks. To save them to your computer, right click, select "save as" m1078_TM 9-2320-365-10.pdf TM 9-2320-365-10 for the M1078 series trucks. m1078_TM 9-2320-365-20-1.pdf TM 9-2320-365-20-1 for the M1078 series trucks. m1078_TM...
www.steelsoldiers.com
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and that's the good side..the other side is melted away as if the autistic third grade IQ Army mechanic used that terminal end as an arc welder.
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I found the part in 24P... listed under "yeah good luck"...
I'm a bit of a stickler for originality on my glorified Mall Crawler, but since this positive cable is attached to the positive terminals on the rail side batteries..I have some 2/0 lugs and cable...I'll fab it up..
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Ronmar
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Two batteries in series… Take a battery(lets call it battery #1) and connect the ground lead to the - terminal. Take a second battery(battery #2) and connect a jumper cable from the + terminal of #1 to the - terminal of #2. Connect the 12v lead at either end of the jumper. the last + terminal on #2 is your 24V so connect the 24v lead there. If you have a nato plug, connect the leads to the same terminals as ground and 24V. Gnd goes to the outer ring in the nato +24 goes to the center post in the nato plug…
ok, ok, here is a picture
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Two batteries in series… Take a battery(lets call it battery #1) and connect the ground lead to the - terminal. Take a second battery(battery #2) and connect a jumper cable from the + terminal of #1 to the - terminal of #2. Connect the 12v lead at either end of the jumper. the last + terminal on #2 is your 24V so connect the 24v lead there. If you have a nato plug, connect the leads to the same terminals as ground and 24V. Gnd goes to the outer ring in the nato +24 goes to the center post in the nato plug…
ok, ok, here is a picture
View attachment 852017
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And here is a short video in laymen’s terms of setting up a 2 battery configuration using type 31 batteries..
Third From Texas
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Now, ideally you would add a small 12v charger and a battery equalizer.
Third From Texas
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Good job with the video there.
fyi: the A0 trucks all have the two cables on the 24v post. Later A1 and A1R trucks *sometimes* have only one. I only mention it because anytime I post that schematic someone will say "there's only one cable on the 24v post".
fyi: the A0 trucks all have the two cables on the 24v post. Later A1 and A1R trucks *sometimes* have only one. I only mention it because anytime I post that schematic someone will say "there's only one cable on the 24v post".
Ronmar
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Exactly! I actually forgot to draw it on mine alsoGood job with the video there.
fyi: the A0 trucks all have the two cables on the 24v post. Later A1 and A1R trucks *sometimes* have only one. I only mention it because anytime I post that schematic someone will say "there's only one cable on the 24v post".
. One goes directly to the starter and the other goes to the polarity protection box and alt…
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as a side note...I have removed my NATO plug entirely...requiring a slight modification of the above wiring diagram....I tested the "revised" schematic using 2 m/c batteries..worked like a champ..
the blue is the 2 24v leads from the truck, the yellow is the 12v lead from the truck, the purple is the ground, the red is the jumper from the negative of BT1 to the positive of BT2 and the green is where I installed a battery disconnect...
be advised the batteries are in the furthest outboard location within the battery box...sure there is wasted space near the frame rail, but the 24,12 and ground wires all can be installed with minimal fuss..
the blue is the 2 24v leads from the truck, the yellow is the 12v lead from the truck, the purple is the ground, the red is the jumper from the negative of BT1 to the positive of BT2 and the green is where I installed a battery disconnect...
be advised the batteries are in the furthest outboard location within the battery box...sure there is wasted space near the frame rail, but the 24,12 and ground wires all can be installed with minimal fuss..
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after much research and pestering the electrical gurus that frequent this forum and even though I have a "upgraded" Niehoff 260 amp alternator, which by all accounts can easily handle a 4 6TL battery configuration, I like the simplicity as well as quite possibly reducing some "strain" on the alternator.... plus one of my 6TLs went flat the other day, the other 3 are well within voltage and load specs....soooo there you have it... thoughts anyone ?
Amer-team
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I have an M923 and have been using the biggest batter W-mart sells for the Dodge diesels. Sorry don't remember the group number and can't go look now. But they are around 120 and have a full 3 year replacement warranty. When I first got the truck, went with new Interstate 6TL's, about 240 each and 1 year warranty. Of course one died at 1 yr 3 months. We have installed the W-Mart batteries in 5 trucks now with no problems.
Third From Texas
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The 260a is awesome but keep in mind that the 12v side is 140a. It's always a battery on the 12v side (either with quads or duals) that's getting sucked on by the "vampiric drain". If you have a master disconnect, that will solve the issue. The only other surefire fix is a 12v charger (simply on the 12v side battery) and a battery equalizer.
My end game is both but I haven't decided where to mount my Bussmann EQ (my thinking is the battery box space is still best used for batteries especially given that the charger and eq will fit in a relatively small compartment).
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I have a battery ground disconnect already installed....the battery tender to the right is a 24v (2.5amp) that I was using in the 4 6TL battery set up.... I imagine it will be aok to use with my 2 6TL battery set up..
