Suppressor on bus bar

[Skinny]

Wow, this is a big ol' thread of what not to do. New owners should take note of this.

One, if a tech doesn't know how the CUCV charging system works and doesn't want to learn...pass. Two, never jump across postive and negative with a straight wire. Basic electricity applies...you just created a dead short. Three, if you can't test the alternators yourself you need to either buy a DVOM and learn or find a tech that does. O'Reilly doesn't count, I wouldn't let them check my oil let alone a CUCV alternator.

Rebuild your our genuine OEM AC Delco alternators before buying an ebay special. If you can't rebuild it, learn or have a tech do it. If he asks what is an isolated ground alternator, pass and find the next one that does. Plenty of reputable shops on this board have been listed that know what a CUCV alternator is.

I'm sorry for anyone's hard ship due to repairs but better for the next guy reading this to be saved.

 

[Chaos333]

Here is an update - I took the alternators off and had them tested and I also had my original ones tested. One of my original Alt's is good and the new ones tested as good. Since I was working on my truck I thought it would be good to add a new starter relay and I did the doghead mod. When I was done I re-installed the alternators and I reconnected the battery the fusible link next to the engine wiring harness block started to smoke. I disconnected the batteries. I think it just finished frying but I am not sure.

Now I have looked everything up and it seems I need a 12gage fusible link and some crimps. So that will be tomorrows mission.

 

[doghead]

Not sure how you tested the alternators but you need to understand that a standard "bench test" will not always find a bad diode trio. A bad diode trio will drain the battery when the vehicle is not running. It can still pass the charge"output test" with a bad diode trio.

Also, did you test for an Isolated Ground before installing them?

Nothing should have smoked more.

 

[Chaos333]

Not sure how you tested the alternators but you need to understand that a standard "bench test" will not always find a bad diode trio. A bad diode trio will drain the battery when the vehicle is not running. It can still pass the charge"output test" with a bad diode trio.

Also, did you test for an Isolated Ground before installing them?

Nothing should have smoked more.

It was a pain just trying to find someone who would test an isolated ground alternator. No one had ever tested one before. In fact it took a few days just to find one person who would give it a try. I brought some articles and my TM's with me and we had to figure this thing out together. But it came to the fact that this is the only guy I could find to test these who is within an hours drive.

 

[doghead]

You(personally) need to test to see if the ground stud has continuity to the case(exterior). This is how you test for isolated ground.

Have you?

If you have made smoke appear anywhere since installing them, all previous testing is invalid.

 

[Chaos333]

You(personally) need to test to see if the ground stud has continuity to the case(exterior). This is how you test for isolated ground.

Have you?

If you have made smoke appear anywhere since installing them, all previous testing is invalid.

I do know a guy who is about an hour away who know's a lot about CUCV's. But I did find all of the bad fusible links and fixed them. It now starts and seems to work just fine. I think the last fusible link that went was because I had part of the positive wire touching the alternator. But now that my truck runs I can take it down south and have someone look and really test the alternators.

 

[M1009 NEWBEE 2013]

Where in Colorado are you?

 

[Chaos333]

Where in Colorado are you?

Westminster

 

[M1009 NEWBEE 2013]

I'm in Parker. If you ever need help, let me know.