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Survival 109 build

rustystud

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I love the MagDrills:

- I don't think I could ever justify the cost of buying one.

- But when you need them, nothing else will do.

I take my work to a machine shop and pay them whatever lump sum we negotiate when I need MagDrill work done. I can afford that.
My Mag-Drill is the older Milwaukee and weighs in at over 30Ibs ! Now that I'm all old and decriped I can barely hold it in place to align it ! I need one of the small newer models. Of course now I cannot afford it !
 

ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
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Looks great, Scott! I would like to make one suggestion. Buy or borrow one of these to clean up the shavings. http://www.harborfreight.com/22-inch-magnetic-floor-sweeper-with-release-98399.html
Those metal shavings can easily penetrate skin without you even realizing it. Digging out metal is extremely painful. If it goes too deep, the trip to the hospital for emergency surgery is EXPEN$IVE and PAINFUL. Ask me how I know......I never want to go through that ordeal again.........
 

QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Winter Springs, FL
Looks great, Scott! I would like to make one suggestion. Buy or borrow one of these to clean up the shavings. http://www.harborfreight.com/22-inch-magnetic-floor-sweeper-with-release-98399.html
Those metal shavings can easily penetrate skin without you even realizing it. Digging out metal is extremely painful. If it goes too deep, the trip to the hospital for emergency surgery is EXPEN$IVE and PAINFUL. Ask me how I know......I never want to go through that ordeal again.........
It is deep enough I can use a rake!
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,267
2,964
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Looks great, Scott! I would like to make one suggestion. Buy or borrow one of these to clean up the shavings. http://www.harborfreight.com/22-inch-magnetic-floor-sweeper-with-release-98399.html
Those metal shavings can easily penetrate skin without you even realizing it. Digging out metal is extremely painful. If it goes too deep, the trip to the hospital for emergency surgery is EXPEN$IVE and PAINFUL. Ask me how I know......I never want to go through that ordeal again.........
That reminds me of when I was working at the Metal Fabrication Shop. I was drilling hundreds of holes and getting bored and careless when one of the "curly cues" from the drilling got flung up into my eye ! It literally drilled itself into my eye since it was spinning. One of the other machinists there tried to remove it and noticed my eye kept pulling out when he tried to pull it. I had to go to the eye doctor who was thankfully just down the road a few miles. He "unscrewed" it from my eye and put some sort of patch on my eyeball to keep the fluids in. It still drained a little but thankfully the body replenishes this eye fluid. Yes I was wearing safety glasses but the metal came up under the glasses. It also didn't help that I was looking around since I was bored so I was 90 degrees from the drill press which gave the metal a good shot at my eye. That's why I like full goggles now when drilling and try and stay focused !
 

Another Ahab

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That reminds me of when I was working at the Metal Fabrication Shop. I was drilling hundreds of holes and getting bored and careless when one of the "curly cues" from the drilling got flung up into my eye ! It literally drilled itself into my eye since it was spinning. One of the other machinists there tried to remove it and noticed my eye kept pulling out when he tried to pull it. I had to go to the eye doctor who was thankfully just down the road a few miles. He "unscrewed" it from my eye and put some sort of patch on my eyeball to keep the fluids in. That's why I like full goggles now when drilling and try and stay focused !

OMG II.gif
 

QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
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Location
Winter Springs, FL
That reminds me of when I was working at the Metal Fabrication Shop. I was drilling hundreds of holes and getting bored and careless when one of the "curly cues" from the drilling got flung up into my eye ! It literally drilled itself into my eye since it was spinning. One of the other machinists there tried to remove it and noticed my eye kept pulling out when he tried to pull it. I had to go to the eye doctor who was thankfully just down the road a few miles. He "unscrewed" it from my eye and put some sort of patch on my eyeball to keep the fluids in. It still drained a little but thankfully the body replenishes this eye fluid. Yes I was wearing safety glasses but the metal came up under the glasses. It also didn't help that I was looking around since I was bored so I was 90 degrees from the drill press which gave the metal a good shot at my eye. That's why I like full goggles now when drilling and try and stay focused !
Your screenname should be "rustyeyeball" then! Hope you didn't have permanent damage.
 

ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Orlando, FL
:shock::shock: OUCH!!!!!!! :shock::shock::shock::shock::shock:
That sounds PAINFUL!!!!

While we're on the subject of 'lessons learned in regards to eye protection', I have one more anecdote. NEVER NEVER NEVER hit an Allen wrench with a hammer without wearing safety glasses and holding onto the Allen wrench. If you do, you will find that the wrench will fly up and puncture your eye, hopefully in the white part. It WILL be excruciatingly painful for the next two to three weeks. Every time you bend down all of the blood in your head will feel like it's flowing into that eye. It will feel like your heart is pounding in your skull. You will wish you would have worn your PPE. With the lesson learned, you will remember to grab safety glasses every time you pick up a hammer, drill, Dremel, etc.

To keep this MV related, I ALWAYS wear safety glasses when I climb under any civilian or military vehicle. (Another lesson learned the hard way.) I have no desire to spend another 45 minutes rinsing rust and dirt out of my eyes after working under my M1009 or my M422.
 

QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
6
18
Location
Winter Springs, FL
:shock::shock: OUCH!!!!!!! :shock::shock::shock::shock::shock:
That sounds PAINFUL!!!!

While we're on the subject of 'lessons learned in regards to eye protection', I have one more anecdote. NEVER NEVER NEVER hit an Allen wrench with a hammer without wearing safety glasses and holding onto the Allen wrench. If you do, you will find that the wrench will fly up and puncture your eye, hopefully in the white part. It WILL be excruciatingly painful for the next two to three weeks. Every time you bend down all of the blood in your head will feel like it's flowing into that eye. It will feel like your heart is pounding in your skull. You will wish you would have worn your PPE. With the lesson learned, you will remember to grab safety glasses every time you pick up a hammer, drill, Dremel, etc.

To keep this MV related, I ALWAYS wear safety glasses when I climb under any civilian or military vehicle. (Another lesson learned the hard way.) I have no desire to spend another 45 minutes rinsing rust and dirt out of my eyes after working under my M1009 or my M422.

Sounds like the voice of experience!
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Your screenname should be "rustyeyeball" then! Hope you didn't have permanent damage.
I did but I had new lenses put in several years ago so it's OK now. Actually my screenname comes from a group I belonged to in the 1980's . We called ourselves the Rustystuds since we where all "Studs" and loved rusty old vehicles which also have lots of rustystuds ! We even had hats and shirts ! Now it just means I once was a Stud but now I'm just rusty ! :-|
 

QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
6
18
Location
Winter Springs, FL
Went to an RV show yesterday, so no progress on Saturday. Today was killer hot so outside work out of the question. Plus I ran out of bolts. Oh well. So flipped on the AC and stained the cabinets instead. Still need lots of trim made and installed as well as a finish coat. But got something done today at least. Question for you structural experts out there ( RS and AA ? ) I am using 5/8" grade 8 bolts on the frame extension. Is that too hard of a bolt to use, should I be using grade 5? I have heard over the years that 8 can just break, where as 5 will stretch first? And what torque should they be tightened to? Thanks.
 

Attachments

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,996
4,549
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Went to an RV show yesterday, so no progress on Saturday. Today was killer hot so outside work out of the question. Plus I ran out of bolts. Oh well. So flipped on the AC and stained the cabinets instead. Still need lots of trim made and installed as well as a finish coat. But got something done today at least. Question for you structural experts out there ( RS and AA ? ) I am using 5/8" grade 8 bolts on the frame extension. Is that too hard of a bolt to use, should I be using grade 5? I have heard over the years that 8 can just break, where as 5 will stretch first? And what torque should they be tightened to? Thanks.
That's funny you would consider me anything like an expert about anything. Because I don't know SQUAT. And especially about hardware and metallurgy and all. But thanks for thinking of me.

That kind of thing ought to be easy to look up, though.
And you're right, I'll bet rustystud knows all about the right bolt for the job. AND, has a great personal story to go with it, too! :naner:
 
Last edited:

QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
6
18
Location
Winter Springs, FL
That's funny you would consider me anything like an expert about anything. Because I don't know SQUAT. And especially about hardware and metallurgy and all. But thanks for thinking of me.

That kind of thing ought to be easy to look up, though.
And you're right, I'll bet rustystud knows all about the right bolt for the job. AND, has a great personal story to go with it, too! :naner:
Don't degrade yourself AA!
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Sorry I'm on late tonight. To answer the bolt question, grade 8 is what you "must" use for vehicle frames. In fact the correct bolt to use on frames is a Grade 8 Fine Thread "Flange" bolt with grade 8 "Flanged Stover" nuts. The torque on this 5/8" bolt would be 180 ft Ibs. If you used a course bolt the torque is 159 ft Ibs.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,267
2,964
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
That's funny you would consider me anything like an expert about anything. Because I don't know SQUAT. And especially about hardware and metallurgy and all. But thanks for thinking of me.

That kind of thing ought to be easy to look up, though.
And you're right, I'll bet rustystud knows all about the right bolt for the job. AND, has a great personal story to go with it, too! :naner:
Actually I do have a story about drilling the frames on the IHC "Sliders". A slider is basically a frame with a cab on it and a steering axle up front. The customer selects the engine and transmission and the differential or differentials . The shop would then assembly this for the customer. Since I was low-man on the Totem pole at the time I got stuck drilling all the frame holes to mount up the spring hangers for the differentials. This is when I became quite intimate with using the correct frame bolts ! Also when I decided to buy my own "Mag-Drill" ! I drilled so many frames if I just stop and think for a moment I can go right back to where I was all those years ago like it was yesterday ! Oh NO please make it STOP !!! aua
 
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