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Tail Pan Replacement

mike634

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
95
49
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Location
Sussex New Jersey
Has anyone replaced the tail pan on the bed of a M1028? I have all the bolts out but the old one feels like it is spot welded in or just rusted in. The part is on the underside of the bed at the back end of the bed if I am not referring to it by it's right name. This is the
part below.
507366a.jpg
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Rear cross member is spot weld and welded. You will play tough getting that out. But if you sand/grind the bed floor at the rear it is possible you could find the spot welds and drill them out. Good Luck. I had a few really nice bed floors. Sold them all now.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
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Location
Rochester NY
Only time I've ever changed any of the cross pieces the bed was off and I flipped it up side down and ground the welds off and rewelded it that way, overhead welding SUCKS!! Have you ever had a red hot spark bounce down inside your ear canal, if so you know why I flipped the bed.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
108.jpg092.jpg093.jpg094.jpg096.jpgThat is why I wear ear plugs and a welding helmet. I welded on the assembly line for 4 years. Used to go thru a 40lb roll of .045 mig wire everyday. I welded bumpers and hitches on a creeper. Welding that tin is easy with a little mig. Getting the factory spot welds out that's a different story. I did an M1009 once. Made my own rear cross member out of 10 gauge galvaneal. I put another piece on top and had the entire inside LineXed. It looked great and made a world of difference in strength. Good Luck. It can be done. Determination and patience. No rush job.
 
Last edited:

mike634

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
95
49
18
Location
Sussex New Jersey
I was afraid it was welded in. I do have the bed off and flipped but I am leaning toward just patching in some metal for now. Thanks for all the help.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
942
690
93
Location
Rochester NY
I was afraid it was welded in. I do have the bed off and flipped but I am leaning toward just patching in some metal for now. Thanks for all the help.
Ahh don't do that, you'll regret it later. You have the bed off might as well do it all at once. To find the welds try using a wire wheel in a drill and strip down the flanges, the welds will jump out at you and be easily seen, using a stone grind off one layer of metal. When you've done that you can 'pop' the two parts apart and get ready to weld.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
/www.eastwood.com/ew-skip-proof-spot-weld-cutter-kit.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiIf2sY6L3QIVDlqGCh391w_YEAQYASABEgLl2PD_BwE

If you are going that far do it right. Get a spot weld cutter bit. You can buy cheaper but you get what you pay for. Weld the little holes and attach the new cross member. No over head welding required.
 
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