taming the beast - making it more liveable

[doghead]

Want to quiet it down, put some Prius tires on it.

 

[Duckworthe]

I've used Lizard Skin for years. Both the sound deadener and thermal coating work great. Its easy to apply and works best with their spray gun. you can role it on but it doesn't get the coverage as the gun does and also doesn't look as nice as when its sprayed. I didn't use it on my truck but have on all my street and off-road trucks. Thermal was used because most of the time my headers are very close to firewalls and with the thermal barrier on its like night and day as for heat transfer into the cab. The only thing with the Lizard Skin is you have to apply it in the correct order if you use both coatings in the same panel. Two thumbs up from me for Lizard Skin. I will install it later on my truck when I swap some interior items around.

 

[Aernan]

Want to quiet it down, put some Prius tires on it.

hahaha. Just need some hub adapters.

 

[Aernan]

I've used Lizard Skin for years. Both the sound deadener and thermal coating work great. Its easy to apply and works best with their spray gun. you can role it on but it doesn't get the coverage as the gun does and also doesn't look as nice as when its sprayed. I didn't use it on my truck but have on all my street and off-road trucks. Thermal was used because most of the time my headers are very close to firewalls and with the thermal barrier on its like night and day as for heat transfer into the cab. The only thing with the Lizard Skin is you have to apply it in the correct order if you use both coatings in the same panel. Two thumbs up from me for Lizard Skin. I will install it later on my truck when I swap some interior items around.

That looks like a great product. Thanks for sharing.

 

[1stDeuce]

I'm sure there are cheaper ways to go about it, but Rugged Radios has some good setups... I think something like this would be pretty slick.
https://www.ruggedradios.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=395_397&products_id=1727

You can plug in a radio, or your phone, and can connect it to a 2-way radio for comms if desired. Sure a lot less work than all that sound deadening stuff...

 

[snowtrac nome]

the fmtv's aren't all that loud, there is a lot of space between drivers and tc position. I don't think you could ever get am m35 as quiet as an fmtv is in its stock form. There are variables you cant get around , 1 is tire noise and ,2 is the fan when it comes on. At 50 mph the turbo does sing pretty good other wise I notice the fan and tire noise much more than the engine noise they are what make it hard to talk over along with the extreme distance between the road side and curb side seat.

 

[TNriverjet]

Are you sure your fan clutch is working on the engine fan? Both of my trucks have been almost reasonable for conversation when that fan is not engaged.

 

[BuiltMFG]

I'm in the middle of sound deadening right now. I have done the doors, rear quarters and ceiling in Dynamat. I have boxes of the stuff ready to fill out the rest of the cab and the underside of the cab sitting in my garage (not to mention new door gasket material). Even so, with just the first layer I have brought down the interior 10 decibels at idle. I can talk to my girlfriend, without yelling, while sitting in the passenger seat while driving.

The stuff isn't cheap but I'm really seeing the benefit already. Once it's all in I'll put a full write-up, including decibel change from layer to layer, on builtmfg.com

I haven't considered a liner product like line-x on the underside of the cab... but now I'm considering it. The problem is I prefer TOFF over most of the liners and nobody sprays it here in Colorado.

 

[Aernan]

I haven't considered a liner product like line-x on the underside of the cab... but now I'm considering it. The problem is I prefer TOFF over most of the liners and nobody sprays it here in Colorado.

Which version of the dynamat are you using?
What is TOFF?

Are you using a DB meter? If so is it an app or a dedicated meter?

 

[BuiltMFG]

Which version of the dynamat are you using?
What is TOFF?
Are you using a DB meter? If so is it an app or a dedicated meter?

I am using several different kinds of Dynamat. The first layer on the ceiling, doors, and rear quarter panels is Dynamat Xtreme. The Second layer on the ceiling and first on the rear of the cab is to fill the valleys is called Dynaliner it comes in different thicknesses (I'm using 1/2"). The floor will be Dynapad then Dynadeck (this might change). The underside of the cab is hoodliner by Dynamat. After all of these are in along with wiring I will do a 1/4 mdf with felt overlay on the headliner and rear of the cab.

I am using an app for the DB meter (literally called "DB meter") and only at an idle since there is such a variance when the engine is running on the road depending on rpm's.

TOFF is just a competitor of Line-X or Rhino Liner. Line-X is like sandpaper, and it will take your skin if you rub on it the wrong way. I've also found that if you scratch it to where water can get to the bare metal rust will eat up under the product and moisture will destroy any metal that the Line-X was supposed to protect. Not to say this won't happen with other liners, but I would avoid using these products on bumpers or skid plates of any kind... it's been a learning process for me

The TOFF has been the most resilient, and has kept it's color the longest without fading. It also goes on smoother and depending on who's spraying it, thicker.

I've contacted Rhino Liner in regards to getting the underside sprayed on my LMTV. I'll let you know if I move forward.

My only concern right now is how much weight can I add to the cab before it becomes a problem... Any Ideas?

 

[Aernan]

After all of these are in along with wiring I will do a 1/4 mdf with felt overlay on the headliner and rear of the cab.

I've seen MDF be used for speaker boxes. Why not use a furniture grade plywood? In all applications I have seen it used it was thick like 1/2".

For the felt are you going to use some special sound absorbing version or just regular felt from a fabric store?

All this discussion is giving me lots of ideas. Thanks.

We like the pleated leather look and may end up doing our own pleated leather walls. Here is an idea. As the last layer of sound deadening use a high density foam. Then your rigid material could be pegboard. On top of pegboard glue foam and apply whatever fabric layer you like. The holes in the backing board (pegboard) would allow sound to go into the cavity with the high density foam. This is one technique used for sound control in large rooms. The only way to improve is to make sure the surface has complex 3d patterns that help scatter the sound.

 

[Awesomeness]

Consider MDO (Medium Density Overlay). It's plywood on the inside, with MDF layers on the outside, infused with waterproof resin. Magical stuff.

 

[BuiltMFG]

Aerman,
I am going to do a four way stretch felt from an audio or fabric store. That's an interesting method using the pegboard, have you seen a write-up on that anywhere?

 

[Aernan]

When doing research on doing pleated leather one of the instructables says to use pegboard. Each button that holds the leather down is actually pulled through a hole in the backer and tied/stapled in the rear. Since you now need a perfect layout of the holes the pegboard can save you doing layout and drilling a bunch of holes. As far as intentionally using it to let sound through. No that's just my own crazy idea. I have seen hanging metal boxes with a grille of holes filled with acoustic damping materials used in office buildings. I know for certain they work great.


Obviously using a tough material like leather would reflect some of the sound so it would be best if a more transparent or lighter material were the final facing material.

Another novel idea is to use classic tin ceiling tiles. The 3d pattern breaks up the sound and they are rigid so they would be easy to clean and never get damaged by the heat trapped at the ceiling.


you could also perforate those with holes and put foam behind them to get the same effect.

 

[Givinup]

In my cab I used hytech sc1000, it's very similar to lizard skin and I've been told it's the base that most of the bedliner products use. It dampens sound and has thermal insulation. I coated the under side of my cab, rear and top. I also sprayed the inside. I used 5 gallons and then another 2 to coat interior panels, door trim, wheel wells etc.

I also fire foamed all interior cavities, and the roof space above the windshield. If you fire foam any cavities, it helps to duck tape other openings, to force foam throughout the cavity.

So far, temperature is about the same as the heat shield and mass loaded vinyl they put in mine in 2001/2010. Sound isn't much improved, but I don't expect it to until I put the doors back together, and put new rubber seals back on the doors. Right now all seals are off.

I expect to be very happy after completing the next steps of the process. I'll also add a foam blanket down the sides of the engine, to help with the rubber mat currently there.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Givinup]

I'm in the middle of sound deadening right now. I have done the doors, rear quarters and ceiling in Dynamat. I have boxes of the stuff ready to fill out the rest of the cab and the underside of the cab sitting in my garage (not to mention new door gasket material). Even so, with just the first layer I have brought down the interior 10 decibels at idle. I can talk to my girlfriend, without yelling, while sitting in the passenger seat while driving.

The stuff isn't cheap but I'm really seeing the benefit already. Once it's all in I'll put a full write-up, including decibel change from layer to layer, on builtmfg.com

I haven't considered a liner product like line-x on the underside of the cab... but now I'm considering it. The problem is I prefer TOFF over most of the liners and nobody sprays it here in Colorado.

I bought a $99 sprayer at home depot and did it myself. Prep work taping up plastic around the engine and other chassis took longer than spraying 5 coats over 5 days.

The sprayer will be clogged and won't work by the end of it, but it was easy to do. I was able to use the sprayer on the interior as well. I'd say after 25 uses the sprayer clogged, but allowed me to finish the job first.

It'll be covered by dynamat (or in this case noico high heat barrier) on the underside then a thermal blanket so I wasn't worried about looks.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Aernan]

Givinup After applying all that deadening. Are you putting the original carpet/foam back in or something else?

 

[BuiltMFG]

I bought a $99 sprayer at home depot and did it myself. Prep work taping up plastic around the engine and other chassis took longer than spraying 5 coats over 5 days.
The sprayer will be clogged and won't work by the end of it, but it was easy to do. I was able to use the sprayer on the interior as well. I'd say after 25 uses the sprayer clogged, but allowed me to finish the job first.
It'll be covered by dynamat (or in this case noico high heat barrier) on the underside then a thermal blanket so I wasn't worried about looks.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Yeah I've actually come across a few videos of liner installs that have gone wrong when done by professionals. I try to be a do-it-yourself kind of guy but I also like to know when something is out of my league. This is probably one of those things.... Might have been in the realm of consideration if I had a space to do it in, but I am stuck working around the Colorado elements and disgruntled neighbors.

 

[Aernan]

I have used the HVLP guns and airbrushes from harbor freight. They work great and are cheap enough to dispose of once used. The trick with sprayers is to have an ultrasonic tank for cleaning the tips or make sure you clean the gun before whatever you are painting dries. This usually means swapping in a tank full of solvent. Most times that's acetone.

Like Givinup said. The bulk of any painting job is prepping the painting area by masking everything you don't want painted. The other side is not getting paint all over yourself in the process.

 

[Givinup]

Givinup After applying all that deadening. Are you putting the original carpet/foam back in or something else?

I'll put in something else, although I am not sure what. I will probably take it to an upholstery or classic car restoration shop for them to bid out finishing the interior. I have some ideas, but I can't imagine I'll have the skillset to complete in a way that looks good

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk