tatra 813 new owner

[John C]

Sorry to quiz you on this Duncan, but I was just wondering how you could deduct the build date from this chassis number/Nr Des Fahrgestells as there's no dating suffix like there is in the other numbers on the truck, my truck I think is a 1970, I'm fairly confident about this as all the numbers indicate it like the engine number and the dating plate in the cab on the rear seat/bunk, but nothing in the chassis number would confirm this i.e. 0594. Does your chassis number have addition numbers to mine?

Regard

 

[duncan]

Nope, my chassis number says 3338 or something. Basicly useless, and couldn't find it anywhere on the DVLA papers.

According to the manual, you just need to see the VIN plate in the cab, so unless you're 100% the cab is original, thats not going to work either. The number on the rear bench / heater box is the cab number and date and should be identical to the vehicle's build date.

But really, ex-military equipment, probably been through the hands of a bunch of enthousiasts in its life... I wouldn't care about the numbers too much. The only proper info on the trucks is on the engine, which is easily replaced, and the cab/vin plate, which are even easier and more likely to be replaced. I wouldn't know which info to trust, to be honest

 

[duncan]

Right, another days work This time I need some of your help

How do I remove the cab from the chassis? I looked around, found how to remove the dashboard.... but thats about it. Couldnt locate any bolts that would keep the cab down. Want to remove it before the new cab arrives so I can service the chassis, engine and air lines that are now inaccessible. I guess I need to remove the steering wheel, engine covers, and the radiator (the one at the front access panel) first... but am lost after that.

Anyone?

 

[John C]

Remove engine covers first, you'll see the bolts then that secure the cab to the chassis rails, I think you need to undo the bolts around the front of the cab that secure it to the battery box and wheel arch?

 

[tatra813]

Right, another days work This time I need some of your help

How do I remove the cab from the chassis? I looked around, found how to remove the dashboard.... but thats about it. Couldnt locate any bolts that would keep the cab down. Want to remove it before the new cab arrives so I can service the chassis, engine and air lines that are now inaccessible. I guess I need to remove the steering wheel, engine covers, and the radiator (the one at the front access panel) first... but am lost after that.

Anyone?

Duncan

Keep a step by step list if you would please. I am probably going to do the same think on one of my trucks and it would be greatly appreciated. pics even better. Good luck

 

[FridgeFreezer]

Since I've had no responses, can anyone furnish me with an English manual or parts book for the T813?

Duncan very kindly sent me the German one which does help (I can understand the pictures at least), but I'm still keen to get hold of the English version, if only to work out what all the levers & knobs in the cab do!

 

[duncan]

Duncan

Keep a step by step list if you would please. I am probably going to do the same think on one of my trucks and it would be greatly appreciated. pics even better. Good luck

I'll try to do a picture series of it... as I try with everything. Usually you start out making pictures of everything, then undo the first 2 bolts or so... then the rest... etc, and after youre done you remember you wanted to make pics But Ill be sure to remember how its done.

Since I've had no responses, can anyone furnish me with an English manual or parts book for the T813?

Duncan very kindly sent me the German one which does help (I can understand the pictures at least), but I'm still keen to get hold of the English version, if only to work out what all the levers & knobs in the cab do!

You're welcome! Any manual you can get your hands on is welcome here too, cant have enough of these. I can help with german-english translations if you need some speecifics.

As for the controls, I'm fairly confident we can help you here Left is the clutch...

Seriously though, I included some pictures on the manual cd for the dashboard so you should be set for that one. On the attached picture you can somewhat see the controls under the dashboard.

To the left the CTIS obviously. The lever selects inflate/deflate/neutral, the knobs are for the tires. In/Down-most position for the level is the neutral. If positioned there the pressure gauge in the middle of the dash should be zero too.

To the right of that (just left of steering column), the small bend lever with the white cap is the pneumatic winch brake. It controls the belt brake. Vertical position is released, horizontal is applied. Leave brake released when driving.

Next to that, to the right of the steering column is the start-boost fluid container, and the manual pump for it. Fill the container with gas or other light flammable substance, use the knob next to it to inject into the air intake. The pump works both ways (both pushing and pulling inject fluid). Manual states that for cold starting (below -15 celcius) you should give it 2 pumps, start, and pump with short intervals while starting / running untill the engine runs smooth.

The white knob to the right of that is another cold-start mechanism. When pulled out the injector pump will put maximum fuel into the engine. If you see the movies where theres a ton of black smoke coming from the truck, the driver has this one pulled out while driving. It's funny to give smoke signals through the exhaust using it... manual states it should only be used when starting, and as soon as the engine catches on, it should be reset to neutral position (fully in).

The lever on the right, just below the dashboard is the manual throttle, controls the minimum level of throttle. Basicly, controls the idle speed, and functions as cruise control if you want

The small pedal just above the throttle pedal is the emergency engine shutoff, kills the fuel if im not mistaken.

To the right of the drivers seat theres 3 levers. From left to right:
- Selector for regular / crawl gearing, only to be used when in neutral, standing still, and without handbrake.
- Winch drive engage/disengage. Remember to flip the switch to the neutral solenoid when using the winch for anything except dragging yourself out of the mud forwards.
- Handbrake, needs no explaining.

The big rotating switch on the dashboard at co-driver side controls the electric air supply unit at the back of the cab.

On the rear bumper there are 2 controls (near the hitch) to unlock the hitch. One allows you to rotate the entire unit, the other allows you to pull it out about 30cm. Makes it easier to hitch a heavy trailer, no need to park 100% perfect to line them up

On the right side theres a rod that engages/disengages the winch. Push in to connect the winch to the drive, pull out to disconnect. Leave disengaged when not using the winch.

Last funny thing I found, under the bumper on the left side (just under the left tail light) theres a small knob. It controls the horn Guessing it's there for communication between the driver and co-driver when winching, saves you a lot of shouting over the engine noise. Makes for fun moments when theres people in the cab who do not expect it

That's all I can think of... do tell if I missed anything, and please do correct me where I'm wrong!

 

[tatra813]

I'll try to do a picture series of it... as I try with everything. Usually you start out making pictures of everything, then undo the first 2 bolts or so... then the rest... etc, and after youre done you remember you wanted to make pics But Ill be sure to remember how its done.



You're welcome! Any manual you can get your hands on is welcome here too, cant have enough of these. I can help with german-english translations if you need some speecifics.

As for the controls, I'm fairly confident we can help you here Left is the clutch...

Seriously though, I included some pictures on the manual cd for the dashboard so you should be set for that one. On the attached picture you can somewhat see the controls under the dashboard.

To the left the CTIS obviously. The lever selects inflate/deflate/neutral, the knobs are for the tires. In/Down-most position for the level is the neutral. If positioned there the pressure gauge in the middle of the dash should be zero too.

To the right of that (just left of steering column), the small bend lever with the white cap is the pneumatic winch brake. It controls the belt brake. Vertical position is released, horizontal is applied. Leave brake released when driving.

Next to that, to the right of the steering column is the start-boost fluid container, and the manual pump for it. Fill the container with gas or other light flammable substance, use the knob next to it to inject into the air intake. The pump works both ways (both pushing and pulling inject fluid). Manual states that for cold starting (below -15 celcius) you should give it 2 pumps, start, and pump with short intervals while starting / running untill the engine runs smooth.

The white knob to the right of that is another cold-start mechanism. When pulled out the injector pump will put maximum fuel into the engine. If you see the movies where theres a ton of black smoke coming from the truck, the driver has this one pulled out while driving. It's funny to give smoke signals through the exhaust using it... manual states it should only be used when starting, and as soon as the engine catches on, it should be reset to neutral position (fully in).

The lever on the right, just below the dashboard is the manual throttle, controls the minimum level of throttle. Basicly, controls the idle speed, and functions as cruise control if you want

The small pedal just above the throttle pedal is the emergency engine shutoff, kills the fuel if im not mistaken.

To the right of the drivers seat theres 3 levers. From left to right:
- Selector for regular / crawl gearing, only to be used when in neutral, standing still, and without handbrake.
- Winch drive engage/disengage. Remember to flip the switch to the neutral solenoid when using the winch for anything except dragging yourself out of the mud forwards.
- Handbrake, needs no explaining.

The big rotating switch on the dashboard at co-driver side controls the electric air supply unit at the back of the cab.

On the rear bumper there are 2 controls (near the hitch) to unlock the hitch. One allows you to rotate the entire unit, the other allows you to pull it out about 30cm. Makes it easier to hitch a heavy trailer, no need to park 100% perfect to line them up

On the right side theres a rod that engages/disengages the winch. Push in to connect the winch to the drive, pull out to disconnect. Leave disengaged when not using the winch.

Last funny thing I found, under the bumper on the left side (just under the left tail light) theres a small knob. It controls the horn Guessing it's there for communication between the driver and co-driver when winching, saves you a lot of shouting over the engine noise. Makes for fun moments when theres people in the cab who do not expect it

That's all I can think of... do tell if I missed anything, and please do correct me where I'm wrong!

Well said Duncan.

Have you figured out anymore on the alcahol canister in the back of the truck? Last year I tried to get my truck going in the snow and all the brake lines were frozen, just trying to figure out where the canister is exactly and what you put in it?

My guess is you have to use the breaks a bit to get it out in the system?

Thanks

 

[duncan]

I actually revised that entire unit... the canister itself was dented and rusted through, so I made a new one from an old motorbike oil-filter house, and welded the old cap on it. I planned to make pictures and forgot, ofcourse This pic is all I have, left is the anti freeze, connected to that is the air pressure regulator + oil separator unit.

Theres some rubber plugs and a spring connecting the canister to the air line. When you push the knob on top of the cab a little anti-freeze goes into the air lines. Not found out which liquid to use for that though.

More important for winter time is to drain water from the air tanks and the water separator before every use. I found two water separators, one on the main air line from compressor to the pressure regulator on the back (the one in the picture). The second one is in the air tank thats mounted directly behind the cab. The drain plug is quite hard to reach unless you attach a wire or chain to it.
I found that the 3 brake air tanks on the back of the truck do not have any water drain plugs, so I'm considering replacing them with new ones which do have plugs. Water in the air system is the devil.

If the description on the drain plugs is not clear enough Ill make some pictures next week.

 

[John C]

Funny you should be talking about the anti-freeze injector as I've just noticed an air leak coming from inside it, are there seals available for it from anywhere?

 

[duncan]

It's a fairly straightforward piece of kit, you might be saved by taking it apart and cleaning it, otherwise go to any truck parts store and order a generic one...

 

[tatra813]

What do you fill the canister with and how much?

 

[duncan]

Im guessing this kind of stuff:

Anti-Freeze Lubricants
Winter grade air tool lubricant that prevents air line, air tool and in-line lubricator freeze-up. Can be poured directly into tool or used with air line lubricators.

Found here: Air Tool and Anti-freeze Lubricants: High grade lubricants to prolong service life of Air Tools, Cylinders and Accessories

Again, not sure, have to find some expert on this subject!

 

[John C]

Methanol is the traditional substance used for air brakes


BTW thanks for the tip Duncan, only problem with getting a new one though is that they don't sell them over here as the weather very rarely gets cold enough to need one Just thought new seals would be easier to fit.

 

[FridgeFreezer]

Inline airtool oilers are readily available though, so I'd guess one of those would do the job well enough.

Edited to add: Does anyone know the wheel specs or PCD for the Tatra?

 

[duncan]

Was thinking, one thing to keep in mind is that oilers are meant to continously drip oil in the lines, not just when its freezing.

 

[FridgeFreezer]

That's all I can think of... do tell if I missed anything, and please do correct me where I'm wrong!

Thanks for that Duncan, at least I know roughly how to start & drive the thing now without breaking something the current owner (or rather, his brother who showed us round) didn't seem to know what to do with most of it beyond how to make it start & change gears. He told us not to touch the gear splitter and just drive without it

I have a couple of questions that your post didn't cover:

1) Is there a control for the overdrive or is that the same thing as high/low gearing (in the Land Rover world it's normal for a car to have high/low transfer box as well as an overdrive to increase cruising speed)

2) What is the small switch sticking up in the top left of the dashboard?

3) I see a wiper control but no washers?

4) What is the small switch on the bottom right, next to the light switch?

On a different track, is there any reason not to remove a few leaves from the rear spring packs? Assuming the truck isn't going to be carrying the full 22 tonnes in the back, it may help level the suspension (and hence tyre wear) and also smooth the ride out a bit.

I'm also still trying to find out how people make these trucks go faster - I have read a few Truck Trail / Rally sites and they all mention the trucks will do upwards of 100kph (some say 130-150kph!) but I can find no mention of how this is done (gearing change, engine tuning, removing engine governor, etc.) and whether it reduces the reliability.

John (& others) it may be telling you what you already know, but hydraulic & pneumatic suppliers such as Hyphose in the UK may well be able to sort you out with any seals you may need, a lot of stuff on trucks is industry standard.

 

[duncan]

To my best of knowledge:

1) Theres the crawl / regular drive with the lever next to the seat (the manual calls it regular and high-speed actually), and the splitter on the gear selector for normal / reduced (labelled N - Normal, and R - Reduziert). So when in high-speed, 5th gear high is the highest gear you can get to.

2) That controls the main power relay in the front right compartment (next to the air filters, the brownish-red unit with the massive white lead to it). Without that relay engaged, nothing electrical will work.

3) Washers? Sorry I only know washers as the small rings you use under nuts and bols If you mean something like windscreen cleaning stuff you get on modern vehicles, there is none.

4) The switch controls Upper / Lower lights. For when using dozer blades (or needing some massive beams), you switch to the upper lights, which are the two units on the cab.

 

[tatra813]

I never thought the truck was really fun to drive until I started to really use the splitter a lot. The gears are spread too far apart if you are on any type of grade to not use the splitter. With the splitter there is no problem and really fun to drive. I do find the splitter doesnt engage as consistantly as I would like.

 

[FridgeFreezer]

Thanks for that, the manuals & other websites have been a bit vague about the gears, as I said in the Land Rover world it would not be unexpected to have crawl/normal gears as well as overdrive.

3) Washers? Sorry I only know washers as the small rings you use under nuts and bols If you mean something like windscreen cleaning stuff you get on modern vehicles, there is none.

That's what I meant, yes. In England the term is washers (yes, exactly the same word as washers which go under nuts & bolts).

Regarding the splitter, can it be engaged before you push the clutch (so it would change the next time you press the clutch) or do you have to switch it the same time you change gears?