Temperature Gauge and Oil Gauge install question

[forest522]

Ok, so I have been browsing lots of threads using the above and other combinations in the search function and have not come up with an answer. Maybe I am reading too much into the tech manual schematics but here goes the question anyway...

Looking at F-3 engine compartment ignition circuit’s diagram, the Coolant Temp wire is number 35, Dark Green. It is located, I am pretty sure, on drivers side just forward of the first glow plug.

If I remove this and install an aftermarket engine temperature gauge set up (a .357 looking sensor at the end of a metal cable), does the removal of this wire interfere in the Cold Advance Control circuit?

I am hoping to get both this gauge and an oil pressure gauge installed. The Oil Pressure gauge (has a nylon tube with a ferrule on the end) will be installed, replacing the wired sensor just behind the glow plug temperature sensor (aka the thermistor). I think I am correct on this install as well.

So, finally, if I remove these sensors and replace with a guage, will the idiot lights stay on?

Thanks for you the help!

 

[camogriz]

Removal of the sensor and wire just forward of the driver's side first glowplug will not interfere with the cold advance control circuit (that sensor is located near the back of the passenger side cylinder head, with 2 wires), although the idiot light will no longer work. I have seen a temperature gauge sensor installed in the unused plug on the water pump (just a thought). As for the oil pressure gauge, I installed that sensor on the back of the engine, on the driver's side near the firewall (that also stopped the idiot light from working). Not sure if it is near the thermistor, but it may be what you refer to. Hope that helps.

 

[forest522]

Thanks Camogriz, I had heard it was a remove and replace deal. There have been other situations where I have pulled one thing and two others were unhappy about it...! It's what makes this things fun I suppose. The Cold Advance circuit was my main concern.

Here is where the Oil Pressure connection goes...


And this is the location for the Engine Temperature sensor. One has to lower the coolant level before removing the old sensor. Then thread in the new probe, well wrapped with teflon tape or other thread sealant.


A Happy Easter will probably delay this install, but I will post more pictures and the results once it's complete. Thanks!

 

[scottladdy]

I have seen people plumb a "T" into the oil pressure port that allowed the use of both the gauge (great for telling you exactly what is going on) and the light (outstanding at getting your attention when there is something wrong).

I also like the idea of using a separate location for the water temp in order to retain the attention grabber there as well.

 

[forest522]

Good call, you should see the goo that is all over that extra spot on the water pump for Temperature sensor...yikes, gonna need a gallon of marine clean for that one! If I get that one done, I'll take pictures and advise. I'm a little worried that the plug there won't come out too well. After this rebuild, I am always fearful of stuck bolts...

 

[richingalveston]

I installed t's on both my oil and water sensors to run gauges and still have a light. I did not know about the extra hole at water pump, may look into moving one senor to this location.

 

[forest522]

Thanks for the photos, good stuff! The other access spot is on the passenger side of the water pump at about 10 o'clock as if your standing in front of it. Mine is so covered in goo, I almost couldn't find it.

 

[camogriz]

Forest522, your picture of where you intend to install the oil pressure sensor is the place I was referring to. I am also interested in the T fitting solution to keep the idiot light working. Very interesting. Have a great day.

 

[scottladdy]

I installed t's on both my oil and water sensors to run gauges and still have a light. I did not know about the extra hole at water pump, may look into moving one senor to this location.

Oil pressure sensors will work just fine with a "T". They are measuring pressure.

However, I am personally not comfortable with using a "T" for water temp sensor. These sensors must be submerged in the fluid they are measuring, and the fluid must be moving or refreshed in order to provide accurate readings.

Rich, unfortunately that "T" you constructed for the water temp sensors does not allow for bleeding air out of the system. Nor does it allow for the sensors to be submerged in flowing coolant, especially the old idiot light on/off sensor.

Just something to consider.

 

[richingalveston]

I was worried about the t on the water side also but it does seem to funtion without problems. I have checked it with IR thermometer and the guage is fairly accurate. I added heat by using a heat gun to heat the t fitting and the gauge operates without any problems. I did not heat it to the point that would make the idiot light turn on but I can make the gauge move proportional to the added heat. I believe it reacts a little slow to the water temp change which is probably the cause of the T and not the gauge. now that I know there is another location to install the sensor I will most likely be moving mine.

when installing the oil presure sending unit, you need the oil presure sending unit socket and have to assemble the T one piece at a time on the engine block. I tried to put the T togather with the two sensors and then install it as a unit. You do not have enough turning radius to install it this way so you have to assemble it one piece at a time on the block, which is kind of a pain due to the location.

 

[forest522]

For clarification, member Howey posted a picture of the temperature gauge sending unit on the left side of the water pump. This picture is really clear and helpful...many thanks to Howey!

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?93727-m1009-gauge-installation/page3

I spent Easter with the family and didn't have time for the ole M1009 today. Will get back on it as soon as I can.

 

[strelnik]

Good call, you should see the goo that is all over that extra spot on the water pump for Temperature sensor...yikes, gonna need a gallon of marine clean for that one! If I get that one done, I'll take pictures and advise. I'm a little worried that the plug there won't come out too well. After this rebuild, I am always fearful of stuck bolts...

There is a higher-temperature anti-seize that is cheap, costs about 8.00 for a pint. It is good to 1300 degrees F. Slop a little of that on the T-pipe going into the engine and the two openings of the T. Should do the trick, it's always worked for me on over the road (OTR) diesels.

Good luck!

I have just bought two dead vehicles with earky (1986) 6.2 l engines. I believe they will have the three-speed THM 400 in them, right?