Temperature

[Gcelevator]

I got mine and the tires with the run flats shook so badly , I thought I owed it money. got some tires from csm tires , very happy with the quality.

Thanks

 

[Mogman]

Any recomendation of a good seller/part? There are tons of options ranging from very cheap to expensive. I wouldn't like to buy a part that is going to leave me stranded.

Do you need the 10K or the 12K half shafts??

 

[Coug]

So looking at other threads, I think you have the M1123, which would need the 12k halfshafts.
Replacement shafts are kind of spendy on them, so if all that is wrong is the boot, you're much further ahead replacing the boots and repacking the CVs than replacing them
Pretty much everywhere I'm looking wants $500 or more for the shafts each for OEM.
Easternsurplus is showing some starting around $335 and saying they are OEM, but no idea how old they are if they are what they say.

CV boots you can buy a pair of them, along with necessary bands and replacement clips, for under $100 a pair. Buy some CV grease from NAPA or other parts store at $6-8 per boot, so 2 per shaft, and you're all set. A pair of CV pliers to crimp them (which also work great for the clips on the Red Dot aircon hoses) and you can do all the boots on the truck for less than the price or replacing a single shaft.

Also to note in case you are unaware, it's recommended you replace the 6 bolts holding the CV shaft to the rotor as they get torqued pretty high (above the recommended torque spec for the grade of bolt they are) and use plenty of loctite when installing, along with new washers (either split ring or nord-lock type). Other option is the Blue Hummer locking halfshaft bolt kit, which is pretty spendy (most things are for our trucks) but can be reused, and as they are a mechanical locking type, you never have to worry about them loosening up once installed.


Don't buy off ebay or from comtac/wolfer as those are notoriously chinese made parts.


Boots

57K3515C / 01-457-1337 2530-01-457-1337 - KIT, HALFSHAFT BOOT (12.1 GVW) {PAIR} | Hummer Parts Guy (HPG)

www.hummerpartsguy.com

grease (just one example)

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CVB6863000?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Chemicals&campaign_id=6478876245&adgroup_id=115972171828&adtype=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjwkYGVBhArEiwA4sZLuNNTda1l9Hb5iTyVLgfJesiWdfFDKhFT41qVasgqPSKTSoTKA3CnAxoCph4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&

CV Pliers

https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-Tools-10-99-i220/dp/B01I3H6UIC/ref=asc_df_B01I3H6UIC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309735728871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13334340944430182403&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033384&hvtargid=pla-450722655113&psc=1

bluehummer locking halfshaft bolt kit (this is for ONE shaft; buy 4 kits to do whole truck)

BlueHummer Locking Halfshaft Bolt Kit

Completely reusable. Never buy another halfshaft bolt. Developed and manufactured exclusively for BlueHummer Outfitters by Stage 8 Locking Fasteners using their patented locking fastener technology. No threadlocker or lock washer…

modmafia.com

 

[Gcelevator]

So looking at other threads, I think you have the M1123, which would need the 12k halfshafts.
Replacement shafts are kind of spendy on them, so if all that is wrong is the boot, you're much further ahead replacing the boots and repacking the CVs than replacing them
Pretty much everywhere I'm looking wants $500 or more for the shafts each for OEM.
Easternsurplus is showing some starting around $335 and saying they are OEM, but no idea how old they are if they are what they say.

CV boots you can buy a pair of them, along with necessary bands and replacement clips, for under $100 a pair. Buy some CV grease from NAPA or other parts store at $6-8 per boot, so 2 per shaft, and you're all set. A pair of CV pliers to crimp them (which also work great for the clips on the Red Dot aircon hoses) and you can do all the boots on the truck for less than the price or replacing a single shaft.

Also to note in case you are unaware, it's recommended you replace the 6 bolts holding the CV shaft to the rotor as they get torqued pretty high (above the recommended torque spec for the grade of bolt they are) and use plenty of loctite when installing, along with new washers (either split ring or nord-lock type). Other option is the Blue Hummer locking halfshaft bolt kit, which is pretty spendy (most things are for our trucks) but can be reused, and as they are a mechanical locking type, you never have to worry about them loosening up once installed.


Don't buy off ebay or from comtac/wolfer as those are notoriously chinese made parts.


Boots

57K3515C / 01-457-1337 2530-01-457-1337 - KIT, HALFSHAFT BOOT (12.1 GVW) {PAIR} | Hummer Parts Guy (HPG)

www.hummerpartsguy.com

grease (just one example)

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CVB6863000?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Chemicals&campaign_id=6478876245&adgroup_id=115972171828&adtype=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjwkYGVBhArEiwA4sZLuNNTda1l9Hb5iTyVLgfJesiWdfFDKhFT41qVasgqPSKTSoTKA3CnAxoCph4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&

CV Pliers

https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-Tools-10-99-i220/dp/B01I3H6UIC/ref=asc_df_B01I3H6UIC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309735728871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13334340944430182403&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033384&hvtargid=pla-450722655113&psc=1

bluehummer locking halfshaft bolt kit (this is for ONE shaft; buy 4 kits to do whole truck)

BlueHummer Locking Halfshaft Bolt Kit

Completely reusable. Never buy another halfshaft bolt. Developed and manufactured exclusively for BlueHummer Outfitters by Stage 8 Locking Fasteners using their patented locking fastener technology. No threadlocker or lock washer…

modmafia.com

Great info. Just ordered the parts and will be repairing. Let's see how it goes

 

[Gcelevator]

Ok, i regards to one tire that was wiggling, i placed on the back for a more bearable ride until i buy the new tires. Went a couple of miles around and heard a screeching. Turned out the rim is weirdly bent or not seated correctly. Some pictures of what happened, rim is already out of the truck , on the process of mounting on an extra rim i have.

 

[Mullaney]

Ok, i regards to one tire that was wiggling, i placed on the back for a more bearable ride until i buy the new tires. Went a couple of miles around and heard a screeching. Turned out the rim is weirdly bent or not seated correctly. Some pictures of what happened, rim is already out of the truck , on the process of mounting on an extra rim i have.

.
Wow!! Dang that could have been a bad day if you had jumped on the freeway at speed. Wouldn't have taken long for something to have ended up broken. Including the possibility of it being you!

Crisis Avoided for sure!
.

 

[Action]

Ok, i regards to one tire that was wiggling, i placed on the back for a more bearable ride until i buy the new tires. Went a couple of miles around and heard a screeching. Turned out the rim is weirdly bent or not seated correctly. Some pictures of what happened, rim is already out of the truck , on the process of mounting on an extra rim i have.

So it didnt rub on the front, but it did on the back? What is different between front and back that would allow that to happen? Bad bearing in one of the hubs? Loose spindle nut?

 

[Gcelevator]

.
Wow!! Dang that could have been a bad day if you had jumped on the freeway at speed. Wouldn't have taken long for something to have ended up broken. Including the possibility of it being you!

Crisis Avoided for sure!
.

Just in time

 

[Gcelevator]

So it didnt rub on the front, but it did on the back? What is different between front and back that would allow that to happen? Bad bearing in one of the hubs? Loose spindle nut?

Not sure why so different. It could be that it deformed more while i used it? It did not rub in the back for a couple of days but it gow worse. I did notice also that the grease or whatever they use to slide the run flat inside was dripping through the cebter of the rim and the alignment hole. Once i pulled it out wanted to see what the problem was and re tightened the 12 bolts and they moved around 1/8"- 1/4" turn however one of them was spinning in the rim. Also some of the studs head were corroded.
In regards to a bad bearing or spindle nut lose, i would have to re visit that but i remember was one of the 1st things i did while waiting on the engine. Will take a look at it again and also will check the clearence on the existing rims front and rear.

 

[Action]

Not sure why so different. It could be that it deformed more while i used it? It did not rub in the back for a couple of days but it gow worse. I did notice also that the grease or whatever they use to slide the run flat inside was dripping through the cebter of the rim and the alignment hole. Once i pulled it out wanted to see what the problem was and re tightened the 12 bolts and they moved around 1/8"- 1/4" turn however one of them was spinning in the rim. Also some of the studs head were corroded.
In regards to a bad bearing or spindle nut lose, i would have to re visit that but i remember was one of the 1st things i did while waiting on the engine. Will take a look at it again and also will check the clearence on the existing rims front and rear.

Well that explains it. Grease had to get past the oring to leak out the alignment hole. The outside of the wheel is bolted to the hub. Your nuts were loose, letting the back of the Rim go where ever it wanted.
Were you the person that originally mounted that tire?

 

[Gcelevator]

Well that explains it. Grease had to get past the oring to leak out the alignment hole. The outside of the wheel is bolted to the hub. Your nuts were loose, letting the back of the Rim go where ever it wanted.
Were you the person that originally mounted that tire?

No, not me. My truck had 2 imaculate tires in the back, one flat in the front and another blown in the front. Had 2 more on a trailer and i obtained 2 more from a friend. Not sure if this one was on the trailer (i doubt it) i believe this one came from a friend on a donor he bought.
I am trowing away the rim and using the tire wich seems good on another rim.

 

[Mogman]

Ok, i regards to one tire that was wiggling, i placed on the back for a more bearable ride until i buy the new tires. Went a couple of miles around and heard a screeching. Turned out the rim is weirdly bent or not seated correctly. Some pictures of what happened, rim is already out of the truck , on the process of mounting on an extra rim i have.

Sounds like you did not get it bolted up correctly, if it was bent enough to hit the rear gear hub it should have been hitting the front gear hub where you removed it.

 

[Gcelevator]

Sounds like you did not get it bolted up correctly, if it was bent enough to hit the rear gear hub it should have been hitting the front gear hub where you removed it.

Or probably it got losen while rolling? I can guarantee you that it was correctly tightened to the hub/spindle while in the fron and back. The grease started leaking while on the back and the screeching was not happening and started about 2-3 miles after running. Why, i don't know. Probably the rim is rotten? I will know once i crack it open.

 

[Mogman]

Before you do anything take it to a tire shop and have them put it on a balancer, this will tell you if the rim is bent and if the tire has a bad flat spot in it.
If the tire has a bad flat spot (it is said many that come from CA look like new but are NFG) then it would be a waste of time re-mounting it.
Doubtful the rim is rotten, problems starting a few miles down the road sound like an improperly installed wheel.

 

[Gcelevator]

Before you do anything take it to a tire shop and have them put it on a balancer, this will tell you if the rim is bent and if the tire has a bad flat spot in it.
If the tire has a bad flat spot (it is said many that come from CA look like new but are NFG) then it would be a waste of time re-mounting it.
Doubtful the rim is rotten, problems starting a few miles down the road sound like an improperly installed wheel.

Definitely the rim is bent/twisted. I mounted the wheel on the trailer axle and free spin it to a bad rim. Tire seems to be flat as per my test.